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Perspective  View  of  tlie  Great  Muir  Glacier 

From  a photograph  by  I.  W.  Taber  (from  the  East  Moraine) 


THE  WONDERS 


O F 

ALASKA 


ALEXANDER  BADLAM 


WITH 

ILLUSTRATIONS  AND  MAPS 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

THE  BANCROFT  COMPANY 


18  0 0 


Copyright,  1S90 
By  ALEXANDER  BAD LAM 


SAN  FRANCISCO 


PREFACE. 


While  the  eye  of  almost  the  entire  world  is  directed 
to  the  wonders  of  the  comparatively  unexplored 
regions  of  the  far  northwest,  and  while  the  elegant 
steamers  that  weekly  ply  the  inland  channel,  from 
Port  Townsend  to  Glacier  Bay  are  crowded  to  their 
utmost  capacity,  it  would  seem  an  opportune  time  to 
piiblish  an  illustrated  work  on  the  wonders  of  Alaska. 

The  author  of  this  volume  was  Treasurer  of  the 
California-Russian  Fur  Company,  a corporation 
which  caused  the  maps  to  be  made,  and  opened  the 
negotiations  for  the  purchase  of  Alaska  from  the 
Russian  Government.  Being  in  constant  communi- 
cation with  the  residents  of  that  Territory,  watching 
with  deepest  interest  its  enterprise  and  progress, 
having  made  an  extended  trip  to  the  most  interesting 
portion,  studying  the  history  of  its  strange  people, 
viewing  and  examining  its  remarkable  glaciers, 
gazing  in  wonder  at  its  high  and  snow-capped 
peaks,  at  its  beautiful  bays  and  fjords,  sailing 
through  the  narrow  passages  of  the  great  Archi- 
pelago from  Victoria  to  Chilkat,  receiving  from  the 
queer  people  legends  and  histories  of  the  numerous 
tribes,  the  witchcraft  and  barbarism  of  its  people, 
and  the  great  extent  of  its  fisheries  and  seal-hunting 
grounds,  the  writer  believes  himself  sufficiently 


IV 


PREFACE. 


informed  to  give  a clear  and  concise  sketch,  more 
particularly  of  that  portion  of  Alaska  traversed  by 
the  commodious  steamers  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Steam- 
ship Company. 

The  reader  can  follow  these  pages  and  be  fully 
informed  of  all  the  principal  points  of  interest  along 
the  Inland  Sea  with  its  innumerable  islands,  the 
great  resources  of  this  wonderful  country,  its  native 
villages,  the  grandeur  of  its  scenery,  the  traditions 
of  the  Indians,  the  success  of  the  mission  schools 
and  the  extension  of  civilization. 


THE  MUIR  GLACIER  AT  lO  O’CLOCK, 
From  photograph  7596,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  1. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

Alaska. — 1542. — Its  Early  History  and  Exploration. — Vitus  Behring.— 

His  Exploits  and  Death. — Arrival  of  Captain  Cook. — Tyranny  of 
the  Russian  Fur  Company. — The  Purchase  of  Alaska  in  1867. — 
Derivation  of  the  Name. — Western  Union  Telegraph  Expedition. — 
Boundary.  — Extent  of  Alaska.  — Its  Divisions,  Rivers  and 
Mountains 1 

CHAPTER  II. 

CITIES  OF  THE  GREAT  NORTHWEST. 

Beautiful  Mountain  Scenery. — Mt.  Hood. — Mt.  Tacoma. — Portland. — 
Tacoma.  — Seattle.  — Port  Townsend. — Victoria. — Vancouver,  the 
Terminus  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad 31 

CHAPTER  III. 

THE  INLAND  PASSAGE. 

From  Port  Townsend  to  the  Great  Glaciers. — History  of  the  Beautiful 
Country  and  Manners  of  its  Queer  People. — Grandeur  of  its  Scen- 
ery.— Sublimity  of  These  Water  Corridors.  — Description  of  the 
Islands,  Mountains,  Fjords  and  Channels. — Flora  and  Verdure. — 
Wrangell.— Juneau. — Glacier  Bay. — Killisnoo  and  Sitka 1!) 

CHAPTER  IV. 

' THE  GLACIERS. 

The  Natural  Formation  of  a Glacier. — Birth  in  the  Mountains  and  Grad- 
ual Descent  to  the  Sea. — Dr.  Kane’s  Theories. — Evidences  of  Glacial 
Action  in  the  Sierra  Nevadas  and  Rocky  Mountains. — Prof.  Muir’s 
Discoveries. — Description  of  the  Great  Muir  Glacier.— The  Pacific. — 
Davidson. — Takou. — Rainbow. — Auk  and  Eagle  Glaciers.— Prof. 
Muir’s  Explorations. — The  Extent  of  Glacial  Action. — Investigation 
in  Greenland. — Moraines. — Definition,  Description  and  Character- 
istics.— Moraines  and  Evidences  of  Pre-Historic  Glaciers  in  the 
United  States 35 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE  NATIVE  KACES. 

Pre-Historic  Theories. — Alaska’s  1 rogress. — Divisions  of  the  Nations, 
Tribes  and  Clans.  — Hyperborean  Group.  — The  Eskimo  of  the 
North. — Canibalistic  Koniagas. — The  Aleuts  and  Intermixtures  of 
the  Aleutian  Chain. — The  Savage  Tinneh. — The  Fierce  and  War- 
like Thlinkets. — Habits,  Customs,  Superstitions  and  Morals  of  the 
Tribes 56 

CHAPTER  VI. 

TOTEMS  AND  SHAMANS. 

The  Totem  Pole;  Its  Emblematic  Significance  and  Use. — Grotesque 
Carvings  and  Barbaric  Conceptions. — Wonderful  Canoes. — Graves 
and  Burial  Customs. — Primitive  Religions. — Witchcraft  Among 
Other  Peoples  and  in  Early  History. — The  Potlach. — Offering  of  the 
Conscience-Stricken  Indians. — A System  not  Found  Among  More 
Enlightened  People 75 

CHAPTER  VII. 

EDUCATION  IN  ALASKA. 

History  of  Early  Education  Under  the  Russians. — The  Changes  After 
the  Purchase  of  Alaska. — Long  Neglect. — Present  Inadequacy  of 
System. — Work  of  the  Agent  and  Needs  of  the  Schools. — Duncan’s 
Metlakatla  Mission;  Its  Prosperity  and  Thrift. — Persecution  by 
Church  and  State. — Final  Immigration  to  Alaska. — Work  of  the 
Sectarian  Missions 87 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

ANIMAL  LIFE  IN  ALASKA. 

Mammoths. — Discovery  of  these  Pre-Historic  Monsters. — The  Remark- 
able Bear  of  the  Yukon. — Other  Species  of  the  Bear.— The  Deer, 
Buffalo  and  Vulpine  Families  of  Alaska. — Fur-Bearing  Animals. — 
Ornithology. — The  Amphibia  and  Fishes  of  Alaskan  Waters 97 

CHAPTER  IX. 

RESOURCES. 

Alaska’s  Great  Wealth. — Extent  of  Her  Gold  and  Silver  Mines. — Valu- 
able Discoveries  of  Mineral  Wealth. — The  Abundance  of  Coal  and 
Timber. — Value  of  Her  Furs,  Fisheries,  etc. — The  Great  Treadwell 
Mine. — Development  of  Placer  Mining. — Industry  and  Growth  of 
Her  Canneries. — Prospects  for  a Bright  Future 112 

CHAPTER  X. 

PHANTOM  CITIES  AND  MIRAGES. 

Atmospheric  Illusions  in  the  Vicinity  of  the  Glaciers. — Professor  Wil- 
loughby’s Silent  City. — Effect  of  the  Late  Sunset. — Confirmations 


CONTENTS. 


vii 


of  the  Discovery. — The  Phantom  City  Wonder. — A Submerged  City 
Beneath  Glacier  Bay. — The  Reality  Discovered  in  the  Mysterious 
Yukon  Region, — A Frozen  City 127 

CHAPTER  XI. 

CHINOOK  JARGON. 

Language  of  the  Indians. — Different  Dialects. — The  Traders  Introduce  a 
Common  Jargon  Which  Nearly  All  Tribes  Have  Adopted. — The 
Chinook  Used  as  Far  South  as  Oregon. — Examples  for  the  Use 
of  Tourists 138 

CHAPTER  XII. 

HOW  TO  GET  THERE. 

From  San  Francisco  to  Alaska. — The  Different  Routes  Open. — Informa- 
tion as  to  Connections. — Schedule  of  Steamer  Movements. — Things 
that  Will  Come  Handy  on  the  Trip,  and  Bits  of  General  Information.  142 


FOREST  SCENE  IN  ALASKA. 

From  photograph  7338,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Oregon. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE. 

The  Great  Muir  Glacier.  ( Frontispiece .)  Photographed  by  I.  W.  Taber. 

Muir  Glacier  at  10  p.  m v 

Forest  Scene  near  Sitka ix 

Among  the  Ice  Cakes — Muir  Glacier 3 

Steamer  Ancon  Behind  an  Iceberg  in  Takou  Inlet 7 

Harbor  of  Sitka — Wharf  and  Islands,  from  Baranoff  Castle 19 

Map  No.  1,  From  Port  Townsend  to  Texada  Island 21 

“ “ 2,  From  Texada  Island  to  Queen  Charlotte  Sound 23 

“ “ 3,  From  Queen  Charlotte  Sound  to  Finlavson  Channel. ...  25 

“ “ 4,  From  Fin layson  Channel  to  Malacca  Pass 27 

“ “ 5,  From  Malacca  Pass  to  Cleveland  Peninsula 29 

“ “ (5,  From  Cleveland  Peninsula  to  Stephens  Pass 31 

“ “ 7,  From  Stephens  Pass  to  Muir  Glacier 33 

“ “ 8,  Sitka,  Peril  Straits  and  Vicinity 35 

Glacier  Bay  from  the  top  of  the  Glacier  looking  Southward 37 

Davidson  Glacier,  Chilkat  Inlet 41 

Crevasse  in  the  Muir  Glacier 47 

Effect  of  Glacial  Erosion — Near  Muir  Glacier 53 

Auk  Indians  near  Juneau 59 

Indian  Funeral  at  Fort  Wrangell 37 

Ancient  Mummy  from  Kagamil 71 

Bear  Totems  at  Fort  Wrangell 77 

Indian  Graves  at  Fort  W'rangell 81 

Sitka,  from  Baranoff  Castle 89 

Greek  Church,  Sitka  ...  93 

An  Alaskan  Mammoth 98 

Chief  Kow-ee  after  a Bear  Hunt 101 

Indian  Bridge  near  Sitka 105 

City  of  Juneau  and  Treadwell  Mine 113 

Killisnoo,  near  Sitka 131 

Willoughby’s  Silent  City 129 

Taber’s  Phantom  City 133 

Mirage  of  Muir  Glacier  in  Glacier  Bay 137 

Shaman  in  Dancing  Costume 139 

Transparent  Iceberg  in  Takou  Inlet •. 143 

Steamship  “ Queen  ” 115 

Steamship  “ City  of  Topeka” 117 

Steamship  “ Geo.  W.  Elder  ” 119 


CHAPTER  I. 


INTRODUCTORY. 

ALASKA. — 1542. — Its  Early  History  and  Ex- 
ploration.— Vitus  Behring. — His  Exploits 
and  Death. — Arrival  of  Captain  Cook. — 
Tyranny  of  the  Russian  Fur  Company. — The 
Purchase  of  Alaska  in  1867. — Derivation  of 
the  Name. — Western  Union  Telegraph  Ex- 
pedition.— Boundary. — Extent  of  Alaska. — 
Its  Divisions,  Rivers  and  Mountains. 


LASKA,  as  it  is  now  known, 
was  Rnssian-America  prior 
to  the  acquisition  of  the  Ter- 
ritory by  the  United  States 
Government. 

the  Spanish  explorers  moved 
northward  from  Mexico  up 
the  Pacific  Coast  in  search  of  the  Anain  passage  to 
India,  in  the  existence  of  which  they  firmly  believed, 
and  which  they  looked  upon  as  a short  cut  to  India 
and  to  wealth.  In  1592  Juan  de  Fuca  believed  that 
he  had  reached  this  goal  of  his  ambition  and  realized 
the  dream.  The  point  which  he  thought  led  on 
to  fame  and  fortune  was  north  of  the  forty-eighth 
parallel. 

The  Russians  had  gradually  pushed  form  the  west- 
ward into  Siberia  and  explored  much  of  the  Kam- 


As  earl}"  as  A.  D.  1542, 


2 


INTRODUCTORY. 


chatkan  coast  to  the  northward.  Their  object  was 
not  to  enrich  geography  nor  to  aid  the  cause  of 
science  in  any  way,  the  impulse  being  merely  the 
extention  of  trade  and  entirely  mercenary,  while 
the  tales  told  by  returned  traders  stimulated  in  the 
ever-aggressive  court  at  St.  Petersburg  a desire  for 
conquest  and  territorial  acquisition.  As  the  natural 
result,  an  expedition  was  fitted  out  in  1728  and 
placed  under  the  command  of  Capt.  Vitus  Behring, 
who,  with  a corps  of  scientists  coasted  north  and 
through  Behring  Straits.  Behring  was  not  a ven- 
turesome man,  and,  after  having  demonstrated  to  his 
own  satisfaction  that  Asia  and  America  were  separate 
continents,  he  returned  to  Kamchatka  without  even 
having  had  a glimpse  of  the  American  coast.  In  the 
Spring  of  1729  Behring  made  an  effort  to  find  a coast 
line  east  of  Kamchatka,  but,  on  account  of  stress  of 
weather  and  his  natural  timidity,  turned  the  head  of 
his  vessel  for  home.  But  trade,  which  after  all  had 
been  as  great  a factor  as  science  in  the  discovery  and 
settlement  of  new  lands,  was  striding  onward  and 
had  pushed  its  way  into  the  lands  to  the  northward 
and  eastward.  Rumors  of  a vast  unexplored  country 
in  the  east,  constantly  received  from  the  Indians, 
and  Behring’s  report  of  his  voyages,  had  excited 
great  interest  in  official  circles  in  Russia,  and,  in 
June,  1741,  a new  expedition  consisting  of  two  ves- 
sels, with  Behring  in  command,  started  eastward. 
They  shortly  became  separated,  and  one  of  them, 
arriving  off  what  is  now  known  as  Cook’s  Inlet,  met 
a horrible  reception  from  the  Indians,  who  killed  a 
number  of  its  men,  and  they  beat  a retreat  and  re- 
turned home.  Behring  sighted  Kaiak  Island  and  lay 
to,  off  the  coast,  but  without  attempting  exploration 


— 


THE  MUIR  GLACIER,  AMONG  THE  ICE  CAKES, 
From  photograph  7807,  by  Partridge,  Poitland,  Ore. 


INTRODUCTORY. 


3 


put  to  sea  the  next  day.  Adverse  weather  came  on, 
the  reckoning  was  lost,  and  the  ship  was  wrecked  on 
Behring  Island,  where  Behring  died.  The  other 
members  of  this  part  of  the  expedition  reached  home 
after  much  peril,  privation  and  suffering. 

Shortly  after  these  occurrences  trade  again  came  to 
the  aid  of  science.  A trader,  sailing  eastward,  dis- 
covered Attou  Island,  the  most  westerly  of  the  Aleut- 
ian group,  and  the  wealth  of  goods  with  which  he 
returned  made  the  islands  known  to  traders  and 
navigators  and  they  soon  had  a place  on  the  charts. 
The  incentive  to  discovery  was  stimulated  and  the 
Russians  at  last  reached  Oonalaska,  and  meanwhile, 
the  Spaniards  had  arrived  at  Queen  Charlotte  Islands. 
In  1775  they  had  reached  as  far  north  as  Sitka.  In 
the  following  year  Captain  Cook,  a wise,  yet  one  of 
the  most  adventurous  exploring  navigators  of  his 
time,  appeared  in  these  waters.  He  made  no  new 
discoveries,  but  attempted  several  explorations  and 
changed  many  names  of  places  into  English  nomen- 
clature. He  reached  Behriug  Strait,  from  whence 
he  returned  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  he  was 
killed,  and,  so  tradition  sayeth,  cooked  and  eaten  b}^ 
the  natives. 

The  history  of  the  Alaskan  region  for  the  eighty 
years,  dating  to  the  American  acquirement,  is  a sad 
tale.  It  is  a record  cf  Russian  avarice,  cruelty  and 
despotism  and  the  most  outrageous  atrocities  by  the 
Russian-American  Fur  Company,  which,  having 
absorbed  all  the  other  trading  companies  and  ob- 
tained the  Royal  patronage,  ruled  with  an  iron  hand. 
License  lent  zest  to  cupidity  and  unrestrained  tyr- 
anny gave  full  swing  to  robbery,  murder  and  rapine. 
International  squabbles  arose  through  the  presence 


4 


INTRODUCTORY. 


of  English,  and  other  foreign  traders  and  speculators, 
who  were  looked  upon  by  the  minions  of  the  Russian- 
American  Company  as  interlopers.  The  scandal 
became  so  great  and  the  protests  against  the  Com- 
pany’s actions  so  numerous,  that,  when  its  charter 
expired,  in  1862,  it  was  refused  a further  concession, 
and  from  that  time  until  the  transfer  of  the  Terri- 
tory to  the  United  States,  it  had  no  privileges  that 
were  not  accorded  to  all  organizations  or  individuals. 

Some  of  the  traders  or  seal-hunters  in  the  Aleut- 
ian group  made  complete  and  perfect  maps  from 
Vancouver’s  survey  of  1793,  and  adding  thereto  the 
surveys  and  information  of  many  subsequent  explor- 
ers and  navigators,  sent  their  maps  and  other  data 
to  capitalists  in  San  Francisco  in  1866,  with  a sug- 
gestion to  purchase  the  property,  consisting  of  ships 
and  furs,  houses,  and  the  acquired  rights  of  the  Rus- 
sian-American  Fur  Company.  A company,  called 
the  California-Russia  Fur  Company,  was  formed 
with  the  late  Gen.  John  F.  Miller  as  its  President, 
Eugene  E.  Sullivan,  Vice  President,  J.  H.  Baker  as 
Secretary,  and  the  author  of  this  work  as  Treasurer, 
and  they  forwarded  to  Washington  the  first  informa- 
tion on  which  was  based  the  offer  of  the  United 
States  to  purchase  Alaska  from  Russia,  which  was 
tendered  by  Mr.  Clay,  then  our  Minister  at  St. 
Petersburg.  The  contract  to  purchase  the  holdings 
of  the  Russian  Company  was  signed  by  their  agent 
and  the  steamer  fitted  up  to  go  north  and  make  the 
delivery,  but  through  the  treachery  of  one  of  the 
officers  of  the  California  Company  the  contract  was 
canceled  and  the  valuable  property  turned  over  to 
others.  The  negotiations  for  the  purchase  of  Alaska 
were  completed  on  March  30,  1867,  and  ratified  on 


INTRODUCTORY. 


5 


the  28th  of  May  following,  when  it  was  formally  con- 
veyed to  our  Government  on  payment  of  the  sum  of 
seven  million,  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  gold. 

Public  opinion  was  inclined  at  the  time  to  ridicule 
that  step,  but  Secretary  Seward,  with  rare  foresight, 
judged  the  value  of  the  country,  and  is  reported  to 
have  said  that  it  might  not  be  in  his  generation,  but 
at  some  time  the  move  would  be  appreciated.  It 
can  be  seen  by  a glance  at  the  statistics  of  the  past 
twenty  years  the  wealth  that  has  been  returned  to 
the  government,  the  returns  from  the  fur  seal  lease 
to  the  government  from  the  company  now  holding  it, 
and  the  new  resources  constantly  discovered  and 
developed  would  justify  this  assertion. 

The  term  “Alaska,”  by  which  the  extreme  north- 
ern territory  of  the  United  States  is  designated,  is  a 
corruption  of  the  aboriginal  word,  “Al-ak-shak,” 
meaning  a great  country,  or  a great  continent,  which 
is  certainly  appropriate  when  it  is  considered  that 
Alaska  contains  nearly  six  hundred  thousand  square 
miles — as  great  an  area  as  is  comprised  in  the  entire 
United  States,  north  of  Georgia  and  east  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi river.  Al-ak-shak  was  the  term  the  early 
voyagers  heard  applied  to  the  unknown  land,  and  we 
find  it  on  French,  German  and  Spanish  maps  in 
various  forms.  Captain  Cook  was  the  first  to  give  it 
a Saxon  spelling  and  pronunciation,  in  the  atlas  of 
his  first  voyage  in  1 778.  On  its  purchase  by  our 
government,  Senator  Sumner,  who  had  been  warm 
in  his  support  of  Seward’s  policy,  urged  the  adoption 
of  “Alaska”  and  it  was  done. 

Meanwhile  the  failure  of  the  first  cable  under  the 
Atlantic  induced  the  directors  of  the  Western  Union 
Telegraph  Company  to  attempt  the  construction  of  a 


6 


INTRODUCTORY. 


telegraph  line  which,  commencing  at  San  Francisco, 
should  traverse  Oregon,  Washington,  British  Col- 
umbia and  Alaska;  then,  crossing  Behring  Straits  by 
cable,  entering  eastern  Siberia  and  traveling  south, 
form  a junction  with  the  Russian  line,  which  had 
then  reached  Amoor. 

Many  doubts  were  advanced  aS  to  the  feasibility  of 
this  route,  but,  in  1865,  an  expedition  under  Captain 
Bulkley  left  San  Francisco.  Many  miles  of  line 
were  built  through  densely  timbered  country,  and 
finally,  after  an  expenditure  of  over  $3,000,000,  the 
ultimate  success  of  the  second  Atlantic  cable  in  1866 
put  au  end  to  the  proceedings  in  this  direction  and 
the  expeditions  were  recalled.  Though  the  primar)^ 
object  of  the  expedition  was  not  carried  out,  the 
benefits  resulting  to  geography  and  to  science  in 
general  have  been  great. 

According  to  the  treaty  of  concession,  the  south- 
ern boundary  of  Alaska  lies  in  the  parallel  of 
540  and  40',  and  the  imaginary  line  ascends  north- 
erly along  the  center  of  Portland  Channel  to  the 
Coast  Range  where  it  follows  the  indentations  of  the 
coast  at  a distance  of  ten  leagues  until  Mt.  St.  Klias 
is  reached,  where  the  line  strikes  1410  of  west 
longitude,  which  then  becomes  an  eastern  boundar}\ 
Attou  Island  in  the  Aleutian  group,  which  is  only 
thirty  miles  from  Asia,  is  the  extreme  western  point 
of  Alaska,  and  the  vast  extent  of  unexplored  ice 
bars  alone  the  way  for  the  extension  of  territory  in 
the  north.  Alaska’s  extreme  breadth  from  east  to 
west  is  over  two  thousand  four  hundred  miles,  and 
from  north  to  south  about  eighteen  hundred  miles. 
The  extreme  easterly  and  northeasterly  boundaries 
are  still  undefined,  the  character  of  the  country 


STEAMER  ANCON  BEHIND  AN  ICEBERG  IN  TAKOU  INLET. 
From  photograph  No.  7741,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


INTRODUCTORY. 


7 


being  such  that  no  surveys  have  ever  been  made. 
Professor  Davidson  estimates  the  shore  line  of 
Alaska,  on  its  numerous  islands,  sounds  and  inlets 
at  thirty  thousand  miles;  more  than  three  times  the 
coast  line  of  the  United  States  on  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  south  of  British  Columbia.  Congressman 
Morrow,  in  his  great  speech  before  the  American 
Protective  Association,  at  its  banquet  held  in  New 
York  on  January  17,  1889,  made  the  statement  that, 
owing  to  the  extreme  westerly  boundary  of  Alaska, 
San  Francisco  was  six  hundred  miles  east  of  the 
geographical  center  of  the  extreme  eastern  and  west- 
ern boundaries  of  the  United  States,  and  therefore 
San  Francisco  might  be  called  an  eastern  rather 
than  a western  city. 

Alaska  is  divided  into  three  natural  divisions. 
One,  extending  northerly  from  the  Alaskan  range 
of  mountains  which  forms  the  westerly  end  of  the 
Alaskan  Peninsula  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  may  be 
called  the  Yukon  division;  another,  the  Aleutian, 
which  embraces  the  peninsula  and  islands  west  of 
the  one  hundred  and  fiftieth  degree  of  longitude. 
The  third  may  be  called  the  Sitkan,  which  will 
include  the  southeastern  portion  of  Alaska  from 
Dixon  Inlet,  in  latitude  540  40'  north,  to  Cross 
Sound. 

Northerly  from  Norton’s  Sound  the  great  River 
Yukon  with  its  tributaries  covering  three  thousand 
miles,  and  navigable  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year 
for  over  two  thousand  miles,  drains  the  northern 
portion  of  Alaska,  emptying  into  Behring  Sea  a 
larger  volume  of  water  than  the  Mississippi  pours 
into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Mining  is  made  practicable 
and  possible  in  this  section  of  Alaska  by  crossing  the 


8 


INTRODUCTORY. 


Chilkat  range  of  perpetual  snow,  on  sleds  drawn  by 
dogs,  early  in  the  season,  and  by  building  rafts  or 
boats  and  floating  down  to  the  mining  camps  near 
the  head  of  navigation. 

The  principal  mountains  of  Alaska  and  their 
estimated  heights  are:  Mt.  St.  Elias,  18,000  feet; 

Mt.  Fairweather,  14,000  feet;  Mt.  Crillon,  13,500 
feet;  Iliamna  Volcano,  12,000;  Redoubt  Volcano, 
11,300  feet;  Alai  Volcano,  9,000  feet;  Mt.  Calder, 

9.000  feet;  Mt.  Shishaldin,  8,955  feet;  Goreloi  Peak, 

8.000  feet;  the  Romanzoff  Mountains,  8,000.  The 
number  of  volcanic  peaks  is  put  down  at  sixty-one, 
ten  of  which  show  symptoms  of  activity. 

The  time  has  now  arrived  when  the  country  should 
have  a territorial  form  of  government,  with  such 
modification  as  may  be  deemed  advisable,  liberal 
land  laws  and  such  other  inducements  as  will 
encourage  the  immigration  of  a healthful  population. 
In  justice  to  the  people  of  the  Territory  that  irregu- 
lar and  irrational  condition  of  public  affairs  now 
existing  should  end. 

This  year  the  lease  of  the  seal  fisheries  has  been 
sold  to  the  highest  bidder.  It  matters  but  little 
which  company  has  possession  of  the  exclusive  right 
to  take  seals,  as  it  is  a wise  provision  to  prevent  a 
complete  annihilation  of  the  seal-bearing  animals  of 
the  Aleutian  group,  and  it  is  undoubtedly  to  the 
interest  of  the  government  that  this  valuable  source 
of  revenue  should  be  thus  protected.  Reasons  for 
this  are  obvious  and  many,  and  it  is  of  vital 
importance  to  certain  communities  of  Alaska’s 
people,  but  no  private  company,  whatever  the  man- 
agement of  that  company,  should  hold  supreme 
sway  over,  or  a controlling  interest  in  any  domain 


INTRODUCTORY. 


9 


inhabited  by  citizens  of  the  United  States  and  under 
its  flag. 

A convention,  held  at  Jnnean,  on  November  5, 
1889,  formulated  a memorial,  which  is  now  before 
Congress,  asking  that  the  Territory  be  allowed  a 
delegate  in  that  body,  that  the  homestead  laws  be 
extended  to  Alaska  in  a modified  form,  that  timber- 
cutting  laws  be  passed  for  the  Territory  and  that  a 
commission  be  created  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a 
code  of  laws  for  Alaska.  There  is  nothing  unreason- 
able in  this.  Some  special  legislation  is  essential 
owing  to  the  anomalous  conditions  of  the  country 
geographically,  and  her  queer  people,  but  there  are 
in  the  Territory  law  abiding,  patriotic  people  in 
sufficient  numbers  to  govern  themselves  under  ade- 
quate and  fixed  laws,  and  with  a delegate  in 
Congress  to  explain  its  wants  and  speak  for  its 
people. 

Land  and  timber  laws  are  an  absolute  necessit}r. 
The  laud  taken  up,  that  is,  what  is  occupied,  is  held 
under  precarious  conditions,  the  people  being  able 
to  get  no  titles  to  their  claims  and  living  in  a con- 
sequent state  of  insecurity.  The  lands  are  valuable 
and  the  people  should  be  secured  111  their  possession 
of  them.  Under  the  existing  regulations  there  is  no 
provision  by  which  the  people  can  make  use  of  the 
timber  about  them.  When  these  things  are  altered 
and  a good  and  stable  government  takes  the  place  of 
the  present  imperfect  judicial  form  and  corporation 
rule  in  the  Territory,  immigration  will  be  encour- 
aged and  attracted  to  this  section,  but  not  before. 

I regret  that  the  present  administration  seems  not 
entirely  in  accord  with  the  people  on  this  subject, 
but  Congress  should  early  take  up  the  matter  of  the 


IO  INTRODUCTORY. 

wants  and  needs  of  Alaska,  and  grant  the  wishes  of 
the  people  to  which  they,  as  citizens  of  the  United 
States,  clearly  are  entitled. 

The  chapters  that  follow  will  give  the  reader  a 
glimpse  of  the  wonderful  grandeur  of  that  curious 
formation  of  islands,  made  up  by  the  maze  of  pas- 
sages and  channels  known  as  the  Inland  Passage; 
they  will  also  give  a brief  and  concise  account  of  the 
native  races,  with  their  habits,  customs,  supersti- 
tions and  primitive  religion;  will  inform  him  some- 
what as  to  the  natural  history  of  the  Territory,  and 
will  acquaint  him  with  the  mission  and  school  work 
at  Metlakatla,  Sitka  and  elsewhere,  giving  informa- 
tion of  the  great  extent  of  the  fisheries,  the  wonderful 
mines,  the  development  of  numerous  other  resources 
and  the  bright  future  in  prospect  for  this — Uncle 
Sam’s  great  northern  domain. 


CHAPTER  II. 


CITIES  OF  THE  GREAT  NORTHWEST. 


Beautiful  Mountain  Scenery. — Mt.  Hood — -Mt. 
Tacoma.  — Portland.  — Tacoma.  — Seattle. — 
Port  Townsend.- — Victoria. — Vancouver,  The 
Terminus  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad. 


PORTLAND. 

HE  cities  of  the  extreme  north 
west  — those  products  of  a 
phenominal  growth  — have, 
surely,  a claim  upon  our 
attention.  Should  the  tour- 
ist return  home  without  hav- 
ing visited  these  pushing 
towns,  he  would  be  regarded 
as  one  whose  opportunities 
for  observation  were  large, 
yet  one  who  had  taken  no 
favorable  cognizance  thereof;  so,  glancing  at  them 
as  we  go,  Portland  is  the  first  upon  our  route. 

It  is  a second  San  P'rancisco,  with  all  its  push, 
vigor,  peculiarities  of  nationalities  and  strength  of 
local  position.  Portland  is  American  in  her  growth, 
progress,  public  schools,  wharves,  churches  and 
modern  improvements.  She  is  the  metropolis  of 
Oregon,  the  railroad  feeder,  the  supply  center  and 
wholesale  mart  of  Oregon,  Washington  and  Idaho. 


12 


PORTLAND — TACOMA. 


The  city  is  located  upon  the  Willamette  river, 
about  twelve  miles  from  its  confluence  with  the 
Columbia.  It  stands  upon  a level  strip  of  area 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  along  which  it 
extends  for  several  miles,  reaching  back  upon  the 
slopes  to  the  “Heights,”  two  precipitous  bluffs, 
from  which  can  be  observed  the  wide  extent  of  the 
surrounding  country,  for,  when  one  looks  to  the 
east  or  north  his  vision  takes  in  that  scope  of 
territory  embraced  by  the  picturesque  Cascade  range 
of  mountains. 

Portland’s  population  can  safely  be  set  down  as 
So,ooo.  There  the  same  restless  activity  of  life  and 
the  same  earnestness  of  purpose  is  manifested  as  is 
seen  in  every  growing  city  on  the  Pacific  Slope. 

TACOMA. 

Tacoma  lies  next  in  our  way,  and  this  marvel  of 
tenacity  and  intelligent  adherance  to  a town  site  in 
which,  five  years  ago,  stumps  of  fir  and  pine  stood 
undisturbed  in  the  heart  of  the  embryonic  city,  on 
Pacific  Avenue,  its  now  leading  thoroughfare,  is  an 
objective  lesson  in  the  tremendous  energies  of  the 
people  of  Washington.  It  is,  besides,  an  inspira- 
tion. Like  its  rival,  Seattle,  its  growth  and  beckon- 
ing future  are  largely  due  to  the  pluck  and  confi- 
dence of  those  who,  less  than  a decade  ago,  “came 
to  stay.”  Notwithstanding  Tacoma’s  great  increase 
of  population,  suddenly  rising  from  5,000  in  1883  to 
to  a population  of  over  30,000  at  the  present  writing, 
her  growth  may  be  said  to  have  been  strict^  con- 
servative, the  inducements  for  investment  and  the 
opportunities  for  homes  being  all  that  was  claimed 
for  the  city  by  its  early  settlers  and  promoters.  It 


CITY  OF  TACOMA. 


13 


"has  never  oscillated  with  the  feverish  threatenings 
between  boom  and  panic,  as  has  been  the  lamentable 
experience  of  so  many  new  towns  in  the  middle-west 
and  on  the  Pacific  slope.  It  is  solid,  never  having 
been  over-boomed,  and  to  predict  adequately  its  won- 
derful future  would  be  equal  in  rashness  with  fixing 
to-day  the  limits  of  Chicago  fifty  years  hence. 

Tacoma  is  situated  on  the  west  shore  of  Com- 
mencement Bay  on  Puget  Sound,  the  longest  stretch 
of  deep  water  of  good  aquatic  behavior  known  on  the 
world’s  map.  The  city  is  located  on  a high  bluff  ris- 
ing by  easy  graduations  from  the  water  till  it  reaches 
to  the  top  of  a long  level  area  where  are  many  fine 
villa  residences,  commodious  public  school  edifices 
and  handsome  churches.  It  possesses  electric  and 
cable  lines  and  four  railroads,  and  is  the  western 
terminus  of  the  Northern  Pacific  railroad.  In  fact  it 
has  been  the  pet  and  protege  of  the  latter  corporation 
and  is  indebted  largely  to  its  favors  for  its  enterprises 
and  early  stimulus  given  to  its  aspirations. 

On  its  shores  are  shipping  wharves,  and  in  close 
proximity  are  large  lumber  mills,  grain  elevators 
and  coal  bunkers.  Its  harbor  is  deep  and  wide,  and 
from  the  broad  extended  piers  ships  depart  daily  for 
all  ports  on  our  southern  coast,  and  frequent  ship- 
ments of  lumber  are  taken  for  China,  Japan,  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  South  America,  and  particularly 
for  Australia  and  the  Colonies.  From  it  are  also 
shipped  by  rail  or  vessel  the  enormous  products  of 
the  Puyallup  hop  fields,  nine  miles  distant,  as  well 
as  wheat  which  comes  from  the  great  Walla  Walla 
and  Big  Bend  fields  of  eastern  Washington. 

Tacoma’s  leading  citizens  are,  as  a rule,  young 
men,  ambitious  and  rivited  with  a zealous  devotion 


14 


TACOMA — -SEATTLE. 


to  its  prosperity  and  permanence.  Scores  of  for- 
tunes have  been  made  by  individuals  who,  investing 
in  their  town  lots  and  filled  with  sublime  faith, 
“ stood  by  their  burg,”  as  the  expression  runs  there, 
and  sold  their  lots,  costing  originally  from  two 
hundred  to  three  hundred  dollars  and  even  less, 
for  thousands. 

About  fifty  miles  to  the  southeast  rises  Mt. 
Tacoma,  14,444  feet  above  the  sea  level,  which, 
towering  in  rugged  grandeur,  robed  in  perennial 
snows  and  seamed  with  frictions  of  the  glaciers,  is 
visible  to  the  best  advantage  in  this  modern  city 
of  destiny. 

SEATTLE. 

Twenty-eight  miles  further  north  and  on  the  east 
side  of  Puget  Sound  is  the  old  Chinook  town  of 
Seattle.  Its  settlement  antedates  that  of  its  rival  by 
something  more  than  a generation’s  span.  Its 
citizens  claim  to  possess  the  best  harbor  on  the 
sound,  while  it  is  nearer  the  coal  mines  and  the 
almost  inexhaustible  lumber  regions.  Its  harbor  is 
almost  circular,  leaving  the  city  rising  up  from  its 
shores  in  gently  sloping  terraces  with  the  graceful 
sweep  of  a wide  amphitheatre.  Looking  over  the 
waters  which  lave  this  beautiful  city  is  seen  the  vast 
Olympian  range,  while  south  of  the  city  Mt.  Tacoma 
rises  lofty  and  white,  with  broad  gigantic  shoulders, 
like  another  Atlas  weighted  down  with  almost 
unbearable  burdens.  Here  this  mountain  is  not 
Mt.  Tacoma.  They  insist  that  it  shall  be  called 
Mt.  Rainer — at  least  their  side  of  it. 

The  situation  of  Seattle  is  very  commanding;  its 
wharfage  is  almost  unlimited,  affording  most  excel- 
lent facilities  for  commercial  enterprises.  There  are 


SEATTLE — PORT  TOWNSEND. 


15 


her  large  and  substantial  business  blocks  of  stone 
and  brick,  schools,  hospitals,  fine  public  buildings 
and  private  residences,  evincing  taste,  wealth  and 
enterprise.  Though  a terrible  conflagration  des- 
troyed a greater  portion  of  the  business  edifices  of 
the  city  in  June,  1889,  these  have  been  replaced 
by  more  substantial  and  elegant  ones,  so  that  the 
fire,  though  a severe  blow  at  the  occupied  energies 
of  the  city,  will  yet  prove  to  be  a blessing  in  dis- 
guise. There  is  no  such  thing  as  dampening  the 
fervor  or  chilling  the  zeal  of  the  people  of  Seattle. 

Its  trade  is  largely  in  lumber  and  coal,  and  it 
has  business  connections  all  over  China,  Japan  and 
South  America,  wherever  a vessel  may  wander  to 
exchange  commodities.  Five  railroads  are  trade 
bearers  to  this  market,  while  cable  and  electric  lines 
ramify  in  every  direction  through  this  bustling, 
prosperous,  dauntless,  ideal  city.  Its  future,  based 
upon  geographical  advantages  of  location,  the  min- 
eral and  the  timber  all  around  it,  its  mills  and  rail- 
road alliances,  as  well  as  upon  the  business  sagacity 
of  its  leading  citizens,  must  surely  be  a grand  one. 

As  for  its  population,  about  which  there  is  so 
much  discussion,  when  Tacoma  mentally  takes  the 
census,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  Seattle  leads  her  neigh- 
bor and  sister  city  by  about  five  thousand,  thus 
allowing  Seattle  to  count  a population  of  thirty-five 
thousand  within  her  city  limits. 

PORT  TOWNSEND. 

Port  Townsend  is  another  of  a series  of  young 
cities  which  has  lately  put  on  new  life  and  is  striv- 
ing for  predominenee  on  Puget  Sound.  It  is  a port 
of  entry  near  the  military  post,  Fort  Townsend, 


i6 


PORT  TOWNSEND — VICTORIA. 


which  commands  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca.  It  has 
a capacious  harbor.  Nearly  all  the  commerce  of  the 
Sound  must  pass  this  gateway  and  hence  contiguous 
territories  are  beginning  to  pay  tribute  to  its  mart. 
As  a port  of  entry  it  is  credited  with  being  second 
only  to  New  York,  in  the  extent  of  export  tonnage. 

It  has  a population  of  from  five  thousand  to  six 
thousand.  Shrewd  business  men  have  invested  all 
their  confidence  and  their  means  in  this  progressive 
city  which  received  its  stimulus  of  rapid  growth  in 
1885,  when  the  other  cities  around  it  began  their 
career  of  sudden  and  conspicuous  prosperity.  Busi- 
ness blocks  worthy  of  any  metropolis  now  adorn 
Port  Townsend,  and  more  are  almost  continually  in 
course  of  erection,  while  two  railroad  companies, 
which  only  recently  made  bids  for  accessible  water 
fronts,  have  sent  surveyors  in  the  field  to  select  the 
most  advantageous  route  for  connecting  this  city 
with  Portland,  Oregon,  and  the  country  on  the  east 
of  the  Cascade  Mountains. 

For  the  tourist  or  lover  of  nature  Port  Townsend, 
besides  being  a promising  place  to  invest  in,  pos- 
sesses perhaps  the  most  glorious  mountain  scenery 
in  Washington.  Climbing  the  cliffs  which  look 
down  upon  the  city,  one  can  behold  a scene  of  rare 
enchantment.  On  a clear  day  the  lofty  peaks  of  the 
entire  Cascade  Range,  from  Mt.  Baker  on  the  north 
to  Mt.  Tacoma  on  the  south,  can  be  witnessed 
in  one  grand  procession  of  white-capped  summits 
and  glittering  pinnacles.  There  is  said  to  be  three 
score  of  them. 

VICTORIA. 

Across  the  Straits  of  B'uca,  and  distant  three  hours 
run  by  steamer,  is  Victoria,  the  Capital  of  British 


CITY  OF  VICTORIA. 


*7 


Columbia,  and  in  point  of  beauty  of  location  is  not 
surpassed  in  the  Pacific  Northwest.  Over  thirty 
years  ago  Victoria  was  a post  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  and  grew  into  a settlement  during  the 
Frazer  River  gold  excitement.  Notwithstanding 
that  this  activity  was  short  lived,  Victoria  became  a 
place  of  steady  growth  till  her  population  is  now 
reckoned  at  twenty  thousand,  of  which  the  Chinese 
are  no  insignificant  portion. 

The  entrance  to  the  city  by  the  inner  harbor  is 
long,  rocky  and  winding  and  can  admit  only  craft  of 
lesser  proportions,  but  its  outer  harbor,  one  mile 
away,  is  ample  for  vessels  of  all  sizes.  Its  commerce 
embraces  not  only  the  whole  North  Pacific  coast,  but 
extends  from  Japan  to  Montreal,  New  York  and  even 
to  England.  The  old  Hudson  Bay  Company,  opu- 
lent as  ever,  has  one  of  its  chief  stations  here.  It  is 
a great  shipping  point  for  fish,  lumber  and  furs. 

The  city  is  remarkable  for  its  well  arranged  and 
well  constructed  roads,  and  has  many  pleasant  drives 
into  the  surrounding  country.  From  Beacon  Hill, 
rising  in  the  center  of  the  park,  there  is  a fine  out- 
look up  the  island.  Gazing  eastward,  Mt.  Baker 
lifts  its  hoary  head  twelve  thousand  feet,  while  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  further  south,  Mt.  Tacoma 
shows  itself  the  most  commanding  of  all  the  peaks. 

In  every  sense  of  the  word  Victoria  is  a handsome 
city.  Americans  on  visiting  it  are  struck  by  ^the 
solidity  and  graceful  style  of  the  architecture  in  its 
business  houses,  churches  and  schools.  Being  the 
seat  of  Government  of  British  Columbia,  it  contains 
many  government  buildings  of  magnitude  and  beauty 
of  design.  Massiveness  as  well  as  symmetry  seem 
to  have  been  the  objects  of  the  architect. 


1 8 


VICTORIA — VANCOUVER. 


There  is  a pleasant  drive  out  to  Ksquimault  (pro- 
nounced Squimalt ) where  the  Dominion  Government 
has  constructed  one  of  the  finest  docks  on  the  coast. 
English  men-of-war  are  to  be  found  in  this  naval 
station  at  any  time.  Victoria,  distant  two  thousand, 
nine  hundred  miles  from  Montreal,  had  hoped  to  be 
the  western  terminus  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  road, 
but  in  this  she  was  doomed  to  disappointment, 
Vancouver  carrying  away  the  honors  and  benefits 
derived  from  such  a distinction. 

VANCOUVER. 

Vancouver  is  eighty  miles  from  Victoria  and  the 
two  are  connected  by  a line  of  swift  steamers.  Van- 
couver is  situated  on  a peninsula  from  the  main 
land  which  shuts  in  an  arm  of  the  sea  called  Burrard 
Inlet,  forming  a perfect  harbor.  The  city  slopes  on 
the  one  side  to  the  waters  of  Burrard  Inlet,  and  on 
the  other  to  English  Bay,  which  provides  for  perfect 
drainage,  and,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  sublime 
mountain  and  water  scenery,  Vancouver  is  a busy, 
healthful  and  beautiful  city.  It  is  a little  over  two 
years  old  and  is  a city  of  between  twelve  and  fifteen 
thousand  inhabitants. 


' 


i 


HARBOR  OF  SITKA,  AND  OLD  WAREHOUSES. 
From  photograph  No.  7970,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


CHAPTER  III. 


THE  INLAND  PASSAGE. 


From  Port  Townsend  to  the  Great  Glaciers.— 
History  of  the  Beautiful  Country  and  Man- 
ners of  its  Queer  People. — Grandeur  of  its 
Scenery. — Sublimity  of  these  Water  Corri- 
dors.— Description  of  the  Islands,  Mountains, 
Fjords  and  Channels. — Flora  and  Verdure. — 
W RANGELL.  — J UNEAU.  — GLACIER  B AY.  — KlLLIS- 
noo  and  Sitka. 


the  tourist,  bent  on  beholding 
the  scenic  grandeur,  the  frigid 
sublimity  and  the  all  prevail- 
ing wierdness  of  Alaska’s 
shores  and  mountains,  gener- 
ally embarks  at  Port  Town- 
send, we  too  will  put  off  from 
this  thriving  port  and  grad- 
ually open  out  the  panorama 
as  the  numerous  islands,  precipices,  crooks  and  turns 
will  permit. 

Leaving  the  deep  waters  of  the  Sound  then,  a north- 
westerly course  across  the  Straits  of  Fuca  brings  us  to 
Victoria,  a distance  of  thirty-four  miles,  where  a stop 
of  six  hours  is  usually  made  to  receive  freight  and 
passengers  and  make  a clearance  at  the  Custom 
House.  We  leave  Victoria  in  a northerly  direction 
and  keep  to  the  west  of  the  San  Juan  Islands,  noted 
for  their  having  been  disputed  territory  between  the 


20 


CAPT.  GEORGE  VANCOUVER. 


British  Government  and  the  United  States ; they 
were  finally  awarded  by  commission  to  the  latter. 
These  Islands  are  about  eight  miles  from  Victoria. 
Thence  proceeding  northerly  through  the  De  Haro 
Straits  among  innumerable  islands,  and  passing 
Admiral  Island  on  the  east,  at  about  thirty  miles  from 
Victoria,  we  wind  through  Active  Pass  and  take  a 
northwesterly  course  opposite  Point  Roberts;  pass- 
ing the  light  house  at  Entrance  Island,  opposite 
Nanaimo,  which  latter  is  about  three  miles  southeast 
from  Departure  Bay. 

On  our  right  is  the  mainland  of  British  Columbia 
with  its  beatiful  mountain  view  and  on  our  left  tower 
the  mountains  of  Vancouver  Island,  which  came  into 
the  possession  of  England  about  1789,  deriving  its 
name  from  the  great  explorer.  George  Vancouver 
was  an  English  navigator  who  had  served  as  mid- 
shipman in  the  second  and  third  voyages  of  Captain 
Cook,  in  1772-75  and  1776-80.  He  was  made  first 
lieutenant  and,  about  1789,  was  commissioned  to 
proceed  to  Nootka,  with  orders  for  the  surrender  of 
the  place,  from  the  Court  at  Madrid  to  Quadra,  the 
Spanish  Commandant.  He  was  ordered  to  make  a 
survey  of  the  coast  northward  from  latitude  30°,  and 
to  ascertain  if  there  was  any  connection  between  the 
coast  and  Canada,  by  means  of  rivers,  lakes  or  inlets. 

In  1791,  Vancouver  left  England  and  made  an 
examination  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  in  1792, 
he  crossed  to  the  American  coast,  secured  the  sur- 
render of  Nootka,  and  took  possession  of  Vancouver 
Island  in  behalf  of  Great  Britain.  Vancouver  spent 
the  summers  of  1792-93-94  surveying  the  coast  from 
the  Straits  of  Fuca  as  far  north  as  Cook’s  Inlet  and 
wintered  in  the  Sandwich  Islands.  He  gave  the 


MAP  No.  1. 


VANCOUVER  ISLAND. 


21 


island  the  name  of  Quadra  and  Vancouver,  but  the 
first  is  no  longer  used.  In  1843,  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  established  a trading  post  at  Victoria. 
The  Island  was  long  claimed  by  the  United  States, 
but  Great  Britain  was  confirmed  in  her  possession  by 
the  treaty  of  ’46.  In  1849  it  was  granted  to  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company  for  fifty  years.  In  1859  it 
was  formed  into  a colony,  and  in  1866  was  consoli- 
dated with  British  Columbia.  Vancouver  Island  now 
forpis  the  southwesterly  corner  of  British  Columbia, 
and  lies  between  north  latitudes  48°  and  50°  and 
west  longitudes  123°  and  128°.  Its  length  is  275 
miles  and  its  greatest  breadth  is  85  miles.  The 
Island  is  separated  from  Washington  by  the  Straits 
of  Fuca,  and  from  the  mainland  of  British  Columbia 
by  the  Canal  de  Haro,  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  John- 
stone Strait  and  Queen  Charlotte  Sound.  The  coast 
is  much  indented  and  has  numerous  inlets.  The 
principal  ones  are  Nootka  Sound,  Barclay  or  Nitnat 
Sound,  Victoria  Harbor,  Esquimault  Harbor  and 
Nanaimo  Harbor.  The  city  of  Victoria  is  the  capi- 
tal of  British  Columbia.  Its  valle)'  contains  300,000 
acres. 

On  entering  these  northern  latitudes,  one  who  is 
not  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  geography  of 
these  shores,  or  the  early  explorations  of  the  coasts, 
would  probably  be  surprised  at  meeting  with  so  many 
Spanish  names.  The  fact  is  that  the  old  Castillian 
voyagers  have  not  to-day  the  credit  that  is  their  due, 
for,  in  change  of  hands  and  the  vicissitudes  which 
this  country  has  witnessed  in  the  course  of  centuries, 
many  names  have  been  changed  or,  from  Indian  or 
foreign  corruption,  have  become  so  distorted  as  to  be 
almost  beyond  recognition.  Thus  many  a hardy 


22 


CASTIIyUAN  EXPLORERS. 


explorer  has  lost  the  last  tie  that  binds  his  memory 
to  this  earth,  and  probably  the  only  reward  he  might 
have  gained  by  risk  of  life  and  sacrifice  of  comfort  to 
benefit  his  kind,  in  dangerous  exploration. 

In  rare  instances  have  the  changes  in  names  been 
an  improvement.  The  most  striking  examples  of 
both  classes  of  changes  are  probably  Mt.  Edgecombe 
in  Sitka  Harbor,  which  was  called  by  the  Spaniards, 
Mt.  San  Jacinto.  The  Florida  Blanca  Islands  were 
renamed  in  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century  by  an 
English  captain,  who  gave  to  the  Islands  the  name 
of  his  ship — “ Queen  Charlotte.  ” Through  foreign 
interference,  Boca  de  Quadra  Inlet  has  become  Bou- 
quet Inlet,  and  in  like  manner  has  La  Creole  been 
metamorphosed  into  Richreall,  though  on  the  old 
charts  they  retain  their  original  spelling.  Juan 
Perez  Sound  in  the  Queen  Charlotte  group  and  many 
points  north  on  the  open  sea  coast,  retain  the  names 
by  which  they  were  known  centuries  ago.  In  the 
Straits  of  Fuca  is  handed  down  to  us  the  name  of  a 
more  fortunate,  yet  probably  less  deserving  adven- 
turer— Juan  de  Fuca.  The  difference  in  the  opinion 
of  authorities  as  to  the  merits  of  Juan  de  Fuca’s  dis- 
covery of  these  Straits  would  make  a most  interesting 
chapter,  though  one  not  within  the  province  of  this 
work  to  enlarge  upon.  There  are  grave  doubts  as  to 
Fuca  ever  having  entered  these  waters.  Vancouver, 
however,  gave  the  Straits  their  name,  and  so  it  will 
be  handed  to  succeeding  generations.  In  the  case 
of  Fuca,  certainly  it  was  the  only  reward  he  ever 
received  for  the  “discovery  of  the  Anain  passage  to 
India.” 

We  steam  through  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  from  Active 
Pass,  about  ninety  miles  to  Cape  Mudge,  at  the 


MAP  No.  2 


Prom  Texada  Island  to  Queen  Charlotte  Sound. 


ENTERING  THE  PASSAGE. 


23 


southerly  entrance  of  Discovery  Passage.  Through 
this  Passage  the  water  tears  like  a millrace,  and 
about  seven  miles  from  Cape  Mudge  we  pass  through 
Seymour  Narrows,  where  over  a tremendous  rock  in 
mid-channel,  the  water  fairly  boils,  and,  at  ebb  and 
flood,  tide-rifts  swing  the  great  steamer,  making  the 
passage  of  these  rapids  the  most  dangerous  on  the 
trip.  It  was  at  this  place,  that  in  June  1875  the  U. 
S.  S.  “Saranac”  was  lost,  and  later  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, the  steamer  “ Grappler  ” burned  and  drifted 
to  the  Vancouver  shore.  Here  the  tourist  meets  the 
first  of  a series  of  surprises  which,  though  he  may  be 
prepared  for  anything  wonderful  on  the  trip,  will 
take  him  unawares. 

The  route  from  Cape  Mudge  lies  between  Van- 
couver Island  on  the  west,  and  Valdes  Island  on  the 
east,  and  though  it  is  scarcely  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  across,  the  precipitious,  evergreen-covered  crags 
on  either  hand,  tend  to  make  the  distance  apparently 
much  less,  while  the  sombre  cliffs  to  all  appearances 
bring  the  voyage  in  this  direction  to  an  abrupt  ter- 
mination; but  land  graduall}'  opens  out  to  the  right 
and  we  are  peering  in  that  direction,  wondering  what 
new  grandeur  is  next  to  be  observed,  when,  with  a 
short  turn  to  the  left,  the  steamer  rounds  Chatham 
Point  and  the  passage  broadens  into  Johnstone  Strait. 
The  Strait  tends  westerly  for  about  one  hundred 
miles,  where  it  connects  with  Queen  Charlotte  Sound 
through  several  short  passes  and  channels,  each 
under  a name  of  its  own. 

On  the  southwestern  side  of  Johnstone  Strait,  the 
mountains  rise  abruptly  from  the  water  to  the  height 
of  from  two  thousand  to  five  thousand  feet,  capped 
with  eternal  snow.  From  the  snow  line,  oft  times 


24 


JOHNSTONE  STRAIT. 


to  the  water’s  edge,  the  evergreens,  hemlock,  spruce 
and  cedar,  with  a rank  undergrowth,  hide  the  soil, 
save  where  the  path  of  an  avalanche  has  plowed 
down  the  mountain  side  and  left  a scar  for  ages.  In 
some  of  these  winrows  the  more  delicate  green  of  the 
moss  which  covers  the  stumps,  fallen  trunks  and 
rocks  comes  out  in  charming  contrast  to  the  darker 
hue  of  the  evergreen. 

Beautiful  valleys  near  the  summits  are  many  and 
in  the  warmer  season  melting  snow  forms  into 
streams  which,  falling  into  the  sea,  create  waterfalls 
of  remarkable  beauty,  and  so  near  the  steamer  that 
the  spray  is  felt  by  those  standing  upon  her  decks. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  tangled  regions  of  this 
labyrinthian  voyage.  Bong-reaching  arms,  narrow 
channels  and  deep  fjords  present  themselves  on 
every  hand,  extending  far  inland  or  forming  islands, 
and  at  every  crook  and  turn  taking  on  a new  name, 
presenting  on  the  chart  a perfect  maze  of  quaint 
orthography.  The  steamer’s  course  lies  along  the 
Vancouver  shore  and  we  pass  through  Broughton 
Strait,  with  Alert  Bay  opening  on  the  western  shore, 
to  Queen  Charlotte  Soun'd. 

Kntering  Queen  Charlotte  Sound  we  come  for  the 
first  time  under  the  influence  of  the  Pacific’s  swell, 
and  if  a spell  of  mal  de  mer  comes  over  the  more 
sensitive,  it  is  but  slight  and  soon  passes,  for  a short 
run  brings  us  to  the  entrance  of  Fitzhugh  Sound, 
at  Cape  Calvert,  and  the  sheltering  mountains  of 
Calvert  Island. 

The  open  sea  lends  variety  to  the  beauties  of  this 
wonderful  panorama  and  adds  a new  touch  of  color 
to  the  greens  of  the  surrounding  foliage.  The  hills 
on  the  east  are  lighted  up  with  all  the  beauties  of 


MAP  No-  3 


Prom  Queen  Charlotte  Sound  to  Pinlayson  Channel. 


BEAUTIFUL  SCENERY. 


25 


the  kaleidiscope.  The  red  and  brown  of  the  moun- 
tain slopes  and  granite  crags,  the  glistening  white 
of  the  snow-capped  peaks,  and  the  deep,  dark 
shadows  in  some  of  the  gloomy  and  narrow  inland 
bays,  form  a graceful  blending  of  the  blues  of  the 
ocean  and  the  everchanging  bright  shades  of  the 
evergreen  trees.  Over  these  cliffs  and  crags  the 
mountain  goat  rambles  with  that  agility  peculiar  to 
his  species.  The  mountains  are  clad  from  snow-line 
to  water  in  dense  coniferous  forests,  principally  pine, 
hemlock,  spruce  and  cedar,  with  some  ash  and  a 
rank  undergrowth,  and  the  tenacity  with  which 
these  gigantic  trees  cling  to  the  precipices  and  thrive 
on  the  rocks  and  atmosphere  is  an  everlasting  source 
of  wonder. 

Fifty  miles  to  the  northward  brings  us  to  Lama 
Pass.  Threading  this  narrow  channel  first  due 
west,  then  again  to  the  north,  we  come  upon  the 
first  Indian  hamlet  on  the  route.  It  is  a trading 
post  called  Bella  Bella,  prettily  situated  on  the 
northern  end  of  Campbell  Island,  and  contains  per- 
haps three  or  four  hundred  inhabitants,  of  which 
some  twenty-five  are  white. 

As  we  take  a new  departure  north  and  west 
through  Seaford  Channel  to  Milbank  Sound,  thence 
northerly,  gliding  through  miles  of  glassy  green 
waters  of  Finlayson  Channel,  and  successively 
through  Graham,  Fraser  and  McKay’s  Reaches,  we 
are  regaled  with  an  ever-changing  procession  of 
mountain  scenery,  waterfalls,  dark  fjords  and  open 
stretches. 

Crossing  Wright  Sound,  with  its  long  and  unex- 
plored arms,  the  ship  steams  into  Grenville  Chan- 
nel, which,  throughout  its  long  reach  of  forty-four 


26 


DIXON  ENTRANCE. 


miles,  with  barely  a turn,  has  scarcely  one  indenta- 
tion in  its  mountainous  sides  that  could  be  called  a 
cove.  Chatham  Sound  connects  with  Grenville 
Channel  by  several  small  straits  and  the  steamer’s 
route  takes  us  into  one  of  these,  Malacca  Pass, 
through  a maze  of  islands. 

The  steamer  comes  once  more  under  the  influence 
of  the  Pacific’s  agitated  waters  as  we  cross  Dixon’s 
Entrance.  Passing  Dundas  Island,  we  leave  in  our 
wake  the  last  vestige  of  foreign  soil,  and  soon  cross 
the  boundary  line  between  British  Columbia  and 
Alaska,  which  lies  along  latitude  540  40'  to  a point 
opposite  Compton  Island,  where  it  passes  northeast- 
erly up  the  center  of  Portland  Inlet.  We  are  now 
in  that  jumble  of  islands  and  channels  called,  in 
honor  of  the  Czar  of  Russia,  the  Alexander  Archi- 
pelago. This  maze  extends  from  Dixon  Entrance 
to  Cross  Sound,  about  three  hundred  miles  in  length 
and  seventy-five  miles  east  and  west. 

From  Cape  Fox  the  route  is  about  seventy-five 
miles  through  Revillagigedo  Channel,  with  Port 
Chester,  or  new  Metlakatla  on  the  west.  The  old 
historic  Metlakatla  Mission  is  located  on  Chin-say-an 
Peninsula.  Thence  thirteen  miles  through  Tongas 
Narrows,  and  east  into  Behm  Canal,  we  reach  Loring 
in  Naha  Bay.  It  was  at  this  place  the  steamship 
“Ancon”  was  wrecked  on  the  morning  of  the  29th 
of  August,  1889. 

From  Loring  across  Behm  Canal  the  steamer  runs 
about  twenty-five  miles  to  Yaas  Bay,  a most  romantic 
spot.  After  visiting  a cannery  on  its  shores,  we 
retrace  our  course  at  Loring  and  are  seen  heading 
up  Clarence  Strait.  Wooded  islands  and  snow- 
capped inland  mountain  ranges  furnish  the  predom- 


MAP  No.  4 


FORT  WRANGELL. 


27 


inant  features  of  the  landscape,  while  the  same 
placid  waters,  perfect  reflections,  marvels  in  color- 
ing, canoes  darting  along  the  shore,  wandering 
birds,  dark  shadows  and  bleak  distances  go  to  make 
up  many  a pretty  marine  view. 

Ninety  miles  from  Loring  the  boom  of  the  cannon 
on  our  forecastle  gives  evidence  that  we  are  approach- 
ing a town  of  some  sort,  and  as  the  echo  rebounds  in 
volleys,  deeper  but  softened  by  distance,  the  steamer 
swings  round  a point,  and  Fort  Wrangell  is  revealed 
directly  ahead. 

Here  are  gathered  the  poor  lodges  of  the  Indians, 
the  little  better  dwellings  of  the  whites,  and  a clus- 
ter of  buildings  long  past  their  prime,  that  once 
composed  a stockade  fort.  The  straggling,  rickety 
appearance  of  the  Indian  huts  and  the  gaunt  totem 
poles  before  the  doors,  lend  a weirdness  to  the  imme- 
diate environment,  while  the  dismal,  but  withal  sub- 
lime scenery  of  this  vicinity  cannot  but  impress  one. 

This  forlorn  nook  is  a landmark  in  Alaskan  his- 
tory. It  was  here  that  in  1831,  Baron  Wrangell,  a 
Russian  explorer,  then  Governor  of  Russian  Amer- 
ica, preparing  himself  for  war  with  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  who  were  organizing  a fillibustering  expe- 
dition into  Russian  territory,  sent  Lieutenant  Zar- 
enbo  to  erect  a fortress  on  this  site.  Zarenbo  built  a 
bastioned  log  fort,  and  soon  after  held  his  own  and 
beat  off  a large  force  of  the  employees  of  that  great 
English  Company.  In  1862,  Wrangell  was  roused 
from  her  letharg}r  by  the  discovery  of  gold  at  Cas- 
siar,  in  British  Columbia.  Wrangell  was  the  near- 
est port  to  the  Stikine  River,  up  three  hundred  miles 
of  which  the  tide  of  immigration  rushed,  and  soon  it 
became  a little  transfer  station  for  all  passengers  and 


2 8 


CITY  OF  JUNFAU. 


goods,  for  it  was  here  that  the  miners  had  to  take 
the  river  boats.  Troops  were  stationed  here  at  that 
time,  and  business  thrived  while  the  mines  pros- 
pered. A dull  time  followed  the  boom.  The  gold 
fever  was  revived  in  1876,  but  was  short-lived. 
Wrangell  is  now  a comparatively  large  place  and 
drives  a large  trade  in  curios. 

The  waters  in  Wrangell  Narrows  are  streaked  by 
the  muddy,  and,  at  times,  chalky  flow  of  the  Stikine 
River,  as  it  issues  from  its  many  deltas;  the  river 
waters  are  a dirty  green,  and  vary  in  color  consider- 
ably with  the  debris  of  the  many  glaciers  which  line 
its  course.  The  current  is  so  swift  that,  as  the  river 
cuts  through  the  salt  water,  the  line  of  demarkation 
is  for  miles  very  pronounced.  From  Wrangell  Nar- 
rows we  surround  ourselves  with  the  gloomy  grand- 
eur of  Prince  Frederick  Sound.  On  the  east  the 
Patterson  Glacier  glides  into  the  deep  waters,  and 
the  Devil’s  Thumb  appears  in  the  distance,  four 
thousand  feet  high.  At  Cape  Fanshaw  we  round 
north,  and  steaming  about  sixty  miles  through 
Stephens  Passage  to  Grand  Island,  leave  Takou 
Inlet  on  our  right  and  sail  northeasterly  up  Gasti- 
neau  Channel  about  fifteen  miles  to  Juneau. 

In  1879  gold  specimens  from  this  region  were 
brought  in  by  the  Indians,  and  a year  later  a pros- 
pector named  Juneau,  with  some  associates,  arrived 
and  staked  out  the  future  city.  After  many  changes 
Juneau  was  settled  upon  as  the  title  by  which  the 
town  should  be  known.  Beautifully  situated  at  the 
base  of  an  abrupt  mountain  and  surrounded  by  the 
picturesque,  nature  has  done  much  for  this  metropo- 
lis of  Alaska.  Her  estimated  population  of  about 
three  thousand,  is  composed  of  that  rough  element 


From  Malacca  Pass  to  Cleveland  Peninsula. 


THE  FIRST  GLACIERS. 


29 


usually  to  be  found  in  a mining  camp  and  they, 
until  the  United  States  shall  give  them  laws,  have 
established  a code  of  their  own.  The  town  is  liveli- 
est in  winter,  when  the  severity  of  the  climate  drives 
in  the  miners  from  the  placer  diggings  of  the  Silver 
Bow  Basin  and  other  mining  camps.  A.  T.  and  J. 
C.  Howard  publish  an  excellent  weekly  The  Alaska 
Free  Press)  and  Frank  H.  Meyers  is  the  editor  and 
publisher  of  the  Juneau  City  Mining  Record , also 
weekly,  and  a sheet  of  fine  typographical  appear- 
ance. Douglas  Island,  on  which  is  situated  the 
Treadwell  Mine,  is  opposite  Juneau  and  forms  the 
southwestern  shore  of  Gastineau  Channel. 

Returning  in  our  wake  to  Stephens  Passage,  we 
skirt  the  northern  shore  of  Admiralty  Island  and 
enter  Lynn  Channel,  by  Favorite  Channel,  getting 
a view  of  the  Auk  and  Eagle  Glaciers  in  the  east  and 
later  we  view  the  great  Davidson  Glacier  which 
comes  down  from  the  mountains  on  the  western  side 
of  the  Channel.  Glaciers  are  now  becoming  num- 
erous, and  by  this  time  we  have  seen  a dozen  of 
greater  or  less  importance. 

Eynn  Channel  separates  at  its  head  into  two 
branches  or  forks,  one  becoming  the  Chilkoot  Inlet 
while  the  other  is  the  outlet  of  the  Chilkat  River, 
which  is  the  pass  over  the  mountains  to  the  Yukon 
River.  At  Chilkat  on  Pyramid  Bay,  the  tourist 
reaches  the  most  northerly  point  on  the  voyage, 
59"  iT.  In  this  vicinity  game  is  abundant  and  bear, 
deer  and  others  are  to  be  seen  from  the  steamer. 
After  being  shut  down  for  some  years  on  account  of 
the  hostility  of  the  natives,  three  canneries  are  in 
operation  during  the  busy  season,  affording  ample 
employment  to  the  colony  of  Indians  gathered  there. 


30 


IN  GLACIER  BAY. 


Returning  en  route  to  Glacier  Bay,  the  steamer 
proceeds  south  along  the  western  side  of  Lynn  Chan- 
nel to  Point  Couverden,  then  once  more  we  head 
northwesterly  through  Icy  Straits  to  the  entrance  of 
Glacier  Bay.  Darting  into  Bartlett  Cove  and  glid- 
ing by  Willoughby  Island,  we  rest  before  the  great 
Muir  Glacier.  Far  away  to  the  northwest  Mt.  Fair- 
weather,  her  great  height  of  15,500  feet  lessened  in 
the  perspective,  keeps  watch  over  the  cold,  grey 
coast.  Nearer  at  hand  Mt.  Crillon  towers  in  all  the 
sublimity  of  her  15,900  feet,  while  Mt.  La  Perouse 
peers  through  the  mist  out  upon  the  bay  from  her 
summit  11,300  feet  above  the  water. 

From  Glacier  Bay  to  Sitka,  there  are  two  routes 
which  may  be  taken.  One  is  west  through  Cross 
Sound  out  upon  the  ocean  and  down  the  coast.  If 
we  take  the  other,  which  is  much  preferable,  we 
retrace  our  course  through  Icy  Strait  as  far  as  Spas- 
kaia  Bay,  and  here  we  go  south  through  Chatham 
Straits  to  Killisnoo. 

At  this  place  are  situated  large  cod  fisheries,  and 
probably  the  largest  fish-oil  plant  in  the  world.  The 
codfish  are  dried  artificially.  From  the  ulikon  or  the 
herring  the  oil  is  extracted  and  the  solids  that  are 
left  is  converted  into  a fertilizer,  so  that  the  odors  that 
penetrate  the  atmosphere  about  Killisnoo  are  not  of 
the  most  agreeable  kind.  Of  late  years  this  com- 
pany has  furnished  a fine  quality  of  cod  liver  oil. 
The  “character”  of  the  place  is  “Saginaw  Jake,” 
an  old  chief,  who  derives  his  name  from  having  been 
for  some  time  a captive  aboard  the  U.  S.  S.  “ Sagi- 
naw ” as  hostage  for  the  good  behavior  of  his  people, 
who  were,  in  1869,  very  warlike.  Jake  is  a queer 
individual  aud  will  afford  the  visitor  a fund  of  amuse- 


MAP  No.  6. 


KILLISNOO — SITKA. 


31 


meat.  His  house  is  embelished  with  a large  wooden 
eagle,  nicely  carved  in  the  center  of  which  is  a win- 
dow, and  this  fact  has  given  Jake  the  opportunity  to 
perpetrate  the  only  Indian  pun  that  is  heard  in  all 
Alaska.  He  always  calls  attention  to  his  “Moun- 
tain Eagle  with  a pain  (pane)  in  his  breast.”  Jake 
wears  a policeman’s  star  as  large  as  a tin  plate, 
dresses  like  a brigadier-general,  and  always  salutes 
the  tourists  that  leave  the  steamers. 

Across  Chatham  Strait  we  enter  a pretty,  tortuous 
and  swift-flowing  bit  of  water,  aptly  styled  Peril 
Strait,  the  scene  of  the  wreck  of  the  “Eureka.” 
Fitting  as  the  name  seems,  Petroff  tells  us  that  it 
was  not  exactly  for  this  reason  that  it  was  so  called, 
but  from  the  fact  that  a hundred  of  Baronoffs  hunt- 
ers were  poisoned  here  from  eating  mussels. 

We  turn  south  on  emerging  from  Peril  Strait,  still 
threading  our  inland  way,  and  soon  Mt.  Edgecumbe 
stands  out  upon  our  starboard  bow  to  greet  us. 
When  Mt.  Edgecumbe  has  been  numbered  with  the 
beauties  of  the  past,  kit.  Verstova,  with  the  town 
clustered  about  its  base,  comes  into  prominence. 
The  first  of  old,  moss-covered  Sitka  that  one  sees  is 
the  Baranoff  Castle  on  an  elevation,  some  sixty  feet 
above  the  water;  then  the  emerald  green  dome  of  the 
Greek  Church  strikes  upon  the  vision  in  bold  relief 
against  the  sky,  and  picking  our  way  among  Sitka’s 
thousand  islands  we  land  at  the  wharf,  off  the  capital 
of  Alaska. 

Sitka  had  been,  for  some  thirty  years  previous  to 
the  change  of  government,  the  headquarters  of  Rus- 
sian supremacy  and  the  seat  of  the  Greek  Catholic 
hierarchy  in  Russian  America,  and  is  now  the  capi- 
tal of  that  vague  judicial  government  which  Con- 


32 


HISTORY  OF  SITKA. 


gress  gave  tlie  Territory  two  years  ago.  Baronoff 
visited  the  present  site  in  1799  and  built  a fortress 
where,  three  years  later,  occurred  a great  massacre 
of  the  Russians.  He  returned  in  1804  and  built  a 
new  fort,  which  he  put  under  the  patronage  of  the 
Archangel  Michael,  the  place  having  previously  been 
under  the  precarious  guardiance  of  Gabriel,  and  the 
town  which  grew  about  it  received  the  name  of  New 
Archangel.  In  1832  Baron  Wrangell  transferred  the 
colonial  capital  from  St.  Paul,  Kadiak  Island,  to 
Sitka,  and  the  place  assumed  a new  importance. 

Since  BaronofPs  time  the  Castle  has  been  remod- 
eled and  passed  on  to  partial  decay.  The  old  yellow 
buildings  of  the  Russians  have,  for  the  most  part, 
passed  into  a state  of  decline;  traces  of  once  busy 
shipyards  are  scarcely  visible,  while  the  encroach- 
ment of  time  leaves  a rookery  of  the  lively  club- 
house and  obliterates  all  vestage  of  that  extravagance 
of  the  early  Governors — the  race- course.  An  old 
grave-yard  with  its  moss-covered  crosses  give  evi- 
dence of  antiquity,  and  an  occasional  fallen  slab 
marks  a neglected  grave  of  greater  importance.  The 
Greek  Church  alone  remains  in  some  sense  to  attest 
past  luxury  and  display.  The  structure  is  not  im- 
posing from  without,  but  within  all  is  sanctified 
grandeur  in  the  coloring  and  appointments,  and  its 
chimes,  its  paintings,  vestments  and  candlesticks 
and  chandeliers  of  massive  silver  remain  as  of  old. 
But  even  this  building  has  passed  its  prime  and  the 
shadow  of  encroaching  years  dims  the  luster  of  the 
emerald  domes  and  roof,  while  Time  makes  his  pres- 
ence felt  in  the  decay  about.  The  church  is  built  in 
the  form  of  a Greek  cross.  The  paintings  of  the 
Saints  and  the  Madonna  are,  most  of  them,  fine,  and 


iVT  A P No.  7. 


From  Stephens  Pass  to  Muir  Glacier. 


AT  SITKA. 


33 


the  massive  inlaid  work  of  gold,  silver,  ivory  and 
gems,  representing  the  Last  Supper,  the  Madonna 
and  the  Child,  and  similar  subjects,  are  a marvel  of 
richness  and  beauty.  Large  brass  doors  divide  the 
altar  from  the  auditorium,  which  is  under  the  central 
dome,  but  the  gates  are  open  during  part  of  the  ser- 
vice, giving  the  worshippers  a good  view  of  the  inter- 
ior magnificence.  The  priestly  raiment  is  rich  in 
color  and  material,  and  the  service,  which  is  orthodox, 
is  ceremonious  and  impressive. 

At  Sitka,  Maurice  E.  Keuealy,  son  of  the  cele- 
brated English  barrister  of  that  name,  publishes  a 
well-conducted  weekly  paper  called  The  Alaskan. 
The  North  Star  is  published  monthly  by  Dr.  Sheldon 
Jackson  in  the  interest  of  the  schools  and  missions. 

The  town  is  built  in  one  street  which  continues  as 
a broad  road  for  a mile  to  the  beautiful  Indian  river. 
The  prospect  from  the  town  is  grand.  From  Mt.  Vers- 
tova,  mirrored  at  our  feet,  out  over  the  island-studded 
bay  we  have  a view  which  would  be  hard  to  excel. 
Mountains  rise  on  every  hand  that,  grim-visaged, 
look  down  upon  the  town  as  from  an  amphitheatre 
and  return  an  echo  as  an  answer  to  our  salute  as 
we  head  homeward. 

The  reader  having  followed  the  steamer’s  course 
indicated  upon  the  accompanying  maps  will  have 
been  able  to  locate  the  principal  points  of  interest 
along  the  route.  This  route  seldom  varies,  and 
when  it  does,  the  steamer  goes  one  way  and  returns 
the  other,  lending  variety  to  the  trip. 

The  following  is  a correct  table  of  the  actual  sail- 
ing distances  between  the  various  points  along  the 
Inland  Passage,  from  Tacoma  to  Glacier  Bay  and 
Sitka,  prepared  by  Captain  Wallace  of  the  “Ancon.” 


34 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES. 


Tacoma  to  Seattle 

24 

miles 

Seattle  to  Port  Townsend 

sSH 

4 4 

Port  Townsend  to  Victoria 

34^ 

4 4 

Victoria  to  Departure  Bay 

78 

4 4 

Departure  Bay  to  Tongas  Narrows.. 

572 

4 4 

Tongas  Narrows  to  Loring 

24 

4 4 

Boring  to  Yaas  Bay 

22 

4 C 

Yaas  Bay  to  Wrangell 

IOO 

4 4 

Loring  to  Wrangell 

78 

l L 

Wrangell  to  Juneau 

143 

L L 

Juneau  to  Chilkat  

89 

L i 

Juneau  to  Glacier  Bay 

I IO 

i i 

Chilkat  to  Bartlett  Bay 

80 

( i 

Bartlett  Bay  to  Glacier  Bay 

25 

i C 

Glacier  Bay  to  Killisnoo... 

76 

4 4 

Glacier  Bay  to  Sitka 

144 

4 4 

Killisnoo  to  Sitka 

78 

4 4 

Sitka  to  Juneau 

152 

4 4 

Sitka  to  Chilkat 

T75 

4 4 

Juneau  to  Killisnoo 

89 

4 4 

4{ 


MAP  No.  8. 


Sitka,  Peril  Straits  and  Vicinity. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


THE  GLACIERS. 


The  Natural  Formation  of  a Glacier. — Birth 
in  the  Mountains  and  Gradual  Descent  to 
the  Sea. — Dr.  Kane’s  Theories. — Evidences 
of  Glacial  Action  in  the  Sierra  Nevadas 
and  Rocky  Mountains.— Prof.  Muir’s  Discov- 
eries.—Description  of  the  Great  Muir  Gla- 
cier.  The  Pacific. Davidson. Takou. 

Rainbow. — Auk  and  Eagle  Glaciers. — Prof. 
Muir’s  Explorations.- — The  Extent  of  Glacial 
Action. — Investigation  in  Greenland. — Mo- 
raines.— Definition,  Description  and  Charac- 
teristics.— Moraines  and  Evidences  of  Pre- 
historic Glaciers  in  the  United  States. 


a stream  seeking  its  course  from  the  mountains  to 
the  sea,  under  such  climatic  conditions  as  to  congeal 
the  water,  but  which,  under  the  force  of  gravitation, 
must  pass  down  as  a solid  mass  between  the  confin- 
ing walls,  until  it  reaches  an  altitude  where  the 


OAH  Webster  defines  a glacier 
to  be  “a  field  or  immense 
mass  of  ice,  or  snow  and  ice, 
formed  in  the  regions  of  per- 
petual snow,  and  moving 
slowly  down  the  mountain 
slopes  or  valleys.”  By  many 
it  is  claimed  that  a glacier  is 
a river  of  ice;  that  is  to  say, 


3 6 GLACIAL  DESCENT. 

temperature,  disintegrates  and  fractures  it,  and  that 
the  fragments  seek  the  sea  in  the  form  of  icebergs. 
That  the  glacier  is  the  mother  of  the  iceberg,  goes 
without  saying,  because  scientific  investigation  and 
research  have  clearly  demonstrated  such  to  be  a fact. 
It  is  contended,  however,  by  other  observers,  that 
the  formation  of  a glacier  is  not  necessarily  depend- 
ent on  a water  course,  and  that  it  can  and  does  exist 
without  the  confining  banks  of  a stream  as  its  habi- 
tat; but  as  all  descending  material  from  mountains, 
whether  solid  or  fluid,  it  naturally  seeks  the  most 
available  depressions  in  the  mountains.  This  im- 
pression of  the  glacier  is  in  mountainous  countries 
above  the  snow-line,  where  there  is  a constant  accum- 
ulation of  snow  under  a temperature  too  low  to  per- 
mit any  great  proportion  to  become  melted  and  to 
flow  down  in  the  form  of  water,  and  hence  these 
accumulations  fill  the  ravines,  canyons  and  other 
depressions,  solidifying  either  by  pressure  or  by 
alternate  melting  and  freezing.  This  ice — a so- 
called  solid — must  in  the  course  of  gravitation  follow 
the  incline  of  the  orifice  in  which  it  is  confined,  and 
the  movement  is  naturally  downward,  the  front  pre- 
senting an  apparent  wall  of  ice,  with  the  tremendous 
pressure  to  the  rear  constantly  pushing  the  frozen 
column  downward  to  an  altitude  where,  in  most 
cases,  it  meets  the  ocean  and  breaks  off  into  icebergs 
melting  as  it  reaches  warmer  latitudes.  Dr.  Kane, 
the  great  Arctic  explorer,  describes  having  seen  in 
Greenland,  in  1855,  in  latitude  790  80',  glaciers 
extending-  over  the  western  coast,  and  sloping  so 
gently  toward  the  water  that  an  inclined  plane  was 
scarcely  preceptible;  yet  the  solid  body  of  ice  was 
constantly  moving  toward  the  bay,  where  masses 


GLACIER  BAY,  FROM  TOP  OF  MUIR  GLACIER,  LOOKING  SOUTHWEST. 
From  photograph  7806,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


GLACIERS  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


37 


would  break  off  and  float  out  to  the  ocean  as  ice- 
bergs. Glaciers  of  this  class  are  certainly  not  ice- 
rivers  or  “frozen  Niagaras,”  as  some  writers  describe 
the  Alaskan  glaciers. 

Dr.  Kane  went  so  far  as  to  conceive  of  a great 
unbroken  mass  of  moving  ice  extending  more  than 
one  thousand  two  hundred  miles  from  this  glacier 
to  the  southern  extremity  of  Greenland.  Arctic 
research  has  not  taught  us  a great  deal  of  value 
since  Kane’s  time,  and  his  glacial  theory  has  neither 
been  exploded  nor  verified,  but  the  discovery  of  the 
great  glaciers  of  the  Alaskan  region  certainly  gives 
some  color  to  a belief  that  he  came  very  near 
the  mark  in  his  idea  of  a great  glacial  belt.  Evi- 
dences of  glaciers  are  prominent  in  the  Sierra 
Nevadas  and  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  Range,  and 
the  plain  signs  of  erosion  by  a force  so  tremendous, 
that  it  could  only  have  come  from  glacial  action,  are 
so  apparent  that  no  other  conclusion  can  be  arrived 
at  other  than  that,  in  the  past,  these  mountains  were 
the  breeding  place  of  glaciers,  which  in  the  natural 
course  of  gravitating  forces,  swept  down  to  the  sea, 
marking  the  face  of  Nature  with  seams  and  furrows 
as  they  rushed  on  in  their  irresistible  courses.  Clar- 
ence King,  who  is  pains-taking,  scientific,  reliable  and 
thoroughly  worthy  of  credence,  discovered  glaciers 
on  the  north  side  of  Mt.  Shasta  in  1870.  Small  gla- 
ciers have  also  been  found  on  Mt.  Tacoma,  Wash- 
ington, and  on  Mt.  Hood  in  Oregon,  and  also  on  the 
mountains  of  the  Yosemite  and  in  the  Sierra  Nev- 
adas, Professor  Muir  having  located  and  named  over 
twenty.  The  explorers  who  have  found  glaciers  in. 
various  parts  of  the  world,  and  who  adhere  to  the 
theory  that  the  glacier  produces  the  iceberg,  are  too 


38 


FROM  YAKATAT  BAY. 


numerous  for  mention  here,  but  their  testimony  and 
narratives  add  largely  in  creating  an  interest  in  the 
glaciers  of  Alaska,  which  are  undoubtedly  the  great- 
est of  modern  times,  and  which  open  an  almost  un- 
limited field  for  scientific  research.  The  greatest  of 
these  is  undoubtedly  the  Muir  Glacier,  at  the  head  of 
Glacier  Bay,  which  is  closely  followed  by  the  Pacific 
Glacier,  lying  west  of  the  Muir,  and  whose  rugged 
moraines,  deep  crevasses,  together  with  the  impossi- 
bility of  reaching  the  glacier  in  safety  by  any  route, 
has  left  this  unexplored  until  an  exceptionally  open 
summer  permits  the  entry  of  some  daring  explorer. 

One  of  the  grandest  views  of  Alaskan  glaciers  is 
at  Yakatat,  or  Behring  Bay,  looking  at  the  St.  Elias 
Range  of  mountains  or,  as  they  are  euphoniously 
termed,  the  “Alaskan  Alps.”  The  scenery  here  is 
magnificent  beyond  conception.  The  mountains, 
from  tide-water  to  the  summit,  are  clothed  in  per- 
petual snow  and  glistening  with  huge  glaciers.  As 
in  all  mountainous  countries,  the  air  is  intensely 
rarefied,  permitting  of  the  extension  of  vision  to  great 
distances  and,  as  the  mountains  range  in  height  from 
sixteen  thousand  up  to  twenty  thousand  feet,  the  effect 
on  the  eye  of  the  sun’s  rays  on  that  great  range  of 
snow  and  ice,  can  scarcely  be  imagined,  and  to 
attempt  to  describe  it  is  a task  most  difficult,  and  all 
but  hopeless.  The  height  of  Mount  St.  Elias  itself, 
is  placed  at  twenty  thousand  feet,  and,  though  some 
sixty  miles  distant,  it  is  plainly  discernible,  from 
base  to  summit,  from  Yakatat.  The  statement  that 
has  been  made  that  Mount  St.  Elias  is  the  highest 
mountain  in  North  America  is  disputed  by  Lieuten- 
ant Allen,  who  asserts  that  Mt.  Wrangell,  a volcano 
at  the  forks  of  the  Copper  River,  in  eastern-central 


VEGETATION. 


39 


Alaska,  is  the  highest  snow  mountain  on  earth,  so 
far  as  known,  outside  of  the  Arctic  and  Antarctic 
regions,  and  also  excepting  Greenland,  and  carries 
the  most  extensive  glaciers  known.  There  are  said 
to  be  at  the  base  of  the  range  in  which  this  moun- 
tain is  contained,  two  thousand  four  hundred  square 
miles  of  flat  plains  of  ice  between  the  mountains  and 
the  sea,  all  included  between  Cross  Sound  and  the 
Copper  River.  The  reader’s  natural  supposition 
would  be  that  within  such  a region  all  would  be 
sterile  and  forbidding,  and  that  vegetation  could  not 
exist.  This,  however,  is  not  the  case,  as  along  the 
banks  of  the  stream  and  at  the  very  edges  of  the 
glaciers,  wild  flowers  and  grasses  flourish  luxuri- 
antly, while  the  music  of  numerous  song-birds  fills 
the  air.  A wild  strawberry  of  large  size  grows  in 
profusion  and  is  of  the  most  delicate  flavor.  Hum- 
ming-birds are  also  quite  common.  A writer  who 
accompanied  one  of  the  exploring  expeditions  is 
enthusiastic  over  two  dishes  that  were  served  to  him 
at  Yakatat  by  the  natives,  one  being  humming-birds 
with  clam  sauce  and  strawberry  short-cake  made 
from  cornmeal.  Lieutenant  Schwatka  also  speaks 
of  the  luxuriance  of  vegetable  growth  extending 
from  the  edges  of  the  glaciers  to  the  shore-line,  and 
describes  it  as  being  absolutely  tropical. 

Among  the  more  notable  of  the  great  glaciers  is 
the  Davidson,  on  Lynn  Channel  near  Chilkat.  It 
comes  down  the  eastern  side  of  the  watershed  of 
which  the  Muir  Glacier  occupies  the  western  slope, 
and  their  sources,  rising  as  they  do  in  the  same  sum- 
mits and  disconnected,  if  at  all,  by  but  a few  miles, 
have  led  some  authorities  to  call  the  Davidson  a 
branch  of  the  Muir,  but  they  are  as  distinct  as  two 


40 


DAVIDSON  GLACIER. 


rivers  seeking  the  sea,  one  by  either  slope  of  a 
mountain  range.  The  Davidson  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  glaciers  of  Alaska.  Its  great  sloping  area 
between  the  mountains  suddenly  rounds  and  broad- 
ens out  three  miles,  its  serrated,  pinnacled  face  of 
brilliant  blue  towering  twelve  hundred  feet.  The 
glacier  ends  in  a terminal  moraine  which  is  covered 
with  a dense  forest  about  two  miles  deep  and  rising 
one  hundred  feet,  the  green  presenting  a beautiful 
and  striking  contrast  to  the  blue  and  white  of  the 
snow  and  ice  which  forms  the  background.  With 
these  inland  glaciers  the  ice  does  not  find  its  way  to 
the  sea,  but  melting  runs  off  in  streams,  as  is  the 
case  with  the  Davidson,  where,  at  each  side  of  the 
glacier,  a small  river  empties  the  melted  ice  into  the 
Channel.  The  Glacier  is  worthily  named  for  Prof. 
George  Davidson,  who,  in  his  capacity  as  Assistant 
Coast  Surveyor,  has  done  much  for  Alaska  in  obser- 
vation and  exploration.  A fact  worthy  of  mention 
in  connection  with  the  glaciers  of  Alaska,  is  that 
ships  supplied  the  Pacific  Coast  with  ice  in  the  early 
days  of  California,  and  “Sitka  Ice”  was  a common 
sign  in  San  Francisco  as  late  as  1856.  This  was 
before  the  day  of  that  great  adjunct  of  civilization, 
the  ice  machine,  and  before  there  was  a railroad  to 
bring  the  great  ice  resources  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  to 
San  Francisco’s  door.  Ice  was  ice  in  San  Francisco 
in  those  days,  and  commanded  what  would  now  seem 
a fabulous  price. 

Notwithstanding  all  the  investigation  and  all  that 
has  been  said  and  'written  about  glaciers,  they  still 
remain  a phenomenon,  and,  to  a certain  extent,  a 
mystery.  The  only  data  on  which  to  estimate  their 
rate  of  motion  is  the  result  of  Prof.  Muir’s  extended 


FRONT  OF  DAVIDSON  GLACIER. 

From  photograph  No.  3,  by  Winter  Photo  Co.,  Eugene,  Ore. 


muir’s  experiments. 


41 


experiments  to  the  velocity  of  the  many  glaciers  he 
has  explored.  Across  the  top  of  the  Muir  Glacier 
he  placed  a row  of  signal  stakes,  about  two  miles 
from  the  great  wall  of  ice  facing  the  Bay,  and,  in 
twenty-four  hours,  he  made  a new  survey,  and  found 
that  on  the  shore  side,  by  reason  of  the  great  erosive 
friction  the  movement  had  been  but  a few  inches, 
while  in  the  centre  of  the  Glacier  the  ice  had  trav- 
eled seventy-eight  feet,  and  the  line  of  stakes  were 
in  the  form  of  a bow,  the  centre  bending  toward  the 
sea.  The  movement  of  the  edges  is  slow,  but  the 
line  of  demarkation  between  the  ice  and  the  parallel 
moraine  is  perfectly  defined,  and  so  plain  that  for 
miles  there  is  not  a spot  where  the  visitor  cannot  put 
one  foot  on  the  moraine  and  the  other  on  the  glacier. 
It  is  certain,  however,  that  the  gradual  descent  is 
such  in  the  glacial  system  of  the  coast  ranges  of 
Alaska  and  British  Columbia  that  the  glaciers  are 
rapidly  decreasing  in  size  and  that  the  climate  is 
growing  drier  and  warmer.  The  tracks  of  the  reces- 
sion of  the  ice  bodies  are  plainly  noticeable  at  Bute 
Inlet  and  Stikine,  where  there  is  at  this  time  but 
slight  erosive  action,  and  small  streams  of  pure  water 
issue  from  the  faces  of  the  glaciers.  Another  notable 
glacier  is  that  of  Takou,  on  the  glacier  arm  of  St. 
Stephens  Strait.  The  Hudson  Bay  Company’s  men 
and  the  Russians  navigated  the  Takou  Inlet  as  early 
as  1840  and  the  Company  established  a trading  post 
in  the  shadow  of  the  glacier. 

Rainbow  Glacier  is  another  of  the  Lynn  Channel 
system.  It  is  called  “ Rainbow”  from  the  fact  that 
the  ice  in  falling  and  crashing  from  a tremendous 
height  into  the  channel  below  gorges  in  the  form  of 
an  arch  in  which,  in  the  sunshine,  is  reflected  all  the 


42 


LYNN  CHANNEL  GLACIERS. 


colors  and  tints  of  the  rainbow,  and  which  forms  a 
sight  of  grandeur  once  seen  never  to  be  forgotten. 
The  great  Auk  Glacier  is  also  one  of  the  Lynn 
Channel  system,  and  is  exceeded  in  size  only  by  the 
Muir,  the  Davidson  and  the  Eagle.  On  Lynn  Chan- 
nel, which  was  named  by  Vancouver  after  Lynn,  Eng- 
land, there  are  .no  less  than  nineteen  important 
glaciers,  and  Lynn  Channel  is  pronounced  by  all 
Alaskan  travelers  as  one  of  the  most  interesting  and 
at  the  same  time  charming  points  in  the  Territory. 

The  author  of  this  book  has  derived  a great  deal  of 
information  concerning  the  glacial  period  theories, 
and  known  existing  glaciers  in  Alaska  from  Prof. 
John  Muir,  who  was  one  of  the  pioneer  scientific 
explorers  of  the  Alaskan  region,  and  who  was  the 
first  recorded  white  man  who  ever  gazed  on  the  gla- 
cier which  bears  his  name.  Prof.  Muir  had  for  his 
guide  the  charts  of  Vancouver,  whose  explorations 
dated  ninety  years  before  Muir’s  visit,  but  such  had 
been  his  care  and  caution  in  surveying  the  streams, 
their  water-sheds  and  confluences,  that,  after  this 
lapse  of  time,  Prof.  Muir  found  the  Vancouver  charts 
an  infallible  guide.  The  coast-line  marks  are  to-day 
recognized  as  a guide  by  navigators,  and  each  bay, 
inlet,  channel,  cove  and  roadstead  noted  by  Van- 
couver is  to-day  a point  for  the  guidance  of  naviga- 
tors, traders  and  explorers.  The  numerous  islands 
which  go  to  make  up  the  terra  firma  of  American 
territory,  in  what  is  known  as  Alaska,  are  all  cor- 
rectly placed  on  the  charts,  and  all  subsequent 
soundings  made  by  the  United  States  have  confirmed 
those  made  by  Vancouver. 

When  Muir  reached  Cross  Sound,  he  took  an 
ancient  native  guide,  and  two  or  three  Indians  to 


MUIR  IN  GLACIER  BAY. 


43 


propel  his  canoe  and  accompany  him  np  Glacier  Bay. 
It  being  known  that  fuel  was  not  to  be  found  in  a 
large  distance  surrounding  the  Glacier,  such  space  as 
could  be  spared  was  stored  with  dry  cedar  and  pine 
boughs,  to  make  sure  that  Muir  and  his  brave  band 
could  have  camp-fires  over  which  to  warm  themselves 
and  cook  their  food.  When  Muir  and  his  compan- 
ions reached  a point  in  the  vicinity  of  forty  miles  of 
the  Glacier,  Vancouver’s  charts  gave  out;  that  is, 
they  showed  that  the  British  explorer  had  met  an 
obstacle  which  prevented  him  from  approaching 
nearer  to  the  great  moving  frozen  river.  The  appear- 
ances, however,  show  that  a fracture  must  have  oc- 
curred, shortly  after  Vancouver’s  time,  by  which 
some  thirty  miles  of  the  Glacier  were  broken  off  and 
consequently  disintegrated  and  carried  seaward. 

Prof.  Muir,  in  describing  this  great  example  of 
Nature’s  irresistible  forces,  said  to  the  author  that 
the  front  and  brow  of  the  Glacier  was  “dashed 
and  sculptured  into  a maze  of  yawning  chasms, 
ravines,  canyons,  crevasses  and  a bewildering  chaos 
of  strange  architectural  forms,  beautiful  beyond  the 
measure  of  description,  and  so  bewildering  in  their 
beauty  as  to  almost  make  the  spectator  believe  that 
he  was  leveling  in  a dream.”  “There  were,”  he 
said,  “great  clusters  of  glistening  spires,  gables, 
obelisks,  monoliths  and  castles  standing  out  boldly 
against  the  sky,  with  bastion  and  mural  surmounted 
by  fretted  cornice  and  every  interstice  and  chasm 
reflecting  a sheen  of  scintillating  light  and  deep  blue 
shadow,  making  a combination  of  color,  dazzling, 
startling  and  enchanting. 

The  day  on  which  the  professor  made  his  first  visit 
was  warm,  and  back  of  the  broad,  waving  bosom  of 


44 


DESCRIPTION  OF  MUIR  GEACIER. 


the  glacier  water-streams  were  outspread  in  a com- 
plicated network,  each  in  its  own  frictionless  channel 
cutting  down  through  the  porous,  decaying  ice,  of 
the  surface  into  the  quick  and  living  blue,  and  flow- 
ing with  a grace  of  motion  and  a ring  and  gurgle, 
flashing  a light  to  be  found  only  on  the  crystal  hills 
and  dales  of  the  Glacier.  Along  the  sides,  he  could 
see  the  mighty  flood  of  ice  grinding  against  the 
granite  with  tremendous  pressure,  rounding  the  out- 
swelling  points,  deepening  and  smoothing  the 
retreating  hollows,  and  shaping  every  portion  of  the 
mountain  walls  into  the  forms  they  were  meant  to 
have  when,  in  the  fullness  of  appointed  time,  the 
ice-tool  should  be  lifted  and  set  aside  by  the  sun. 
Back  two  or  three  miles  from  the  front,  the  current 
is  probably  about  twelve  hundred  feet  deep;  but 
when  we  examine  the  walls, the  grooved  and  rounded 
features  plainly  show  that,  in  the  earlier  days  of  the 
ice  age,  they  were  all  overswept,  and  this  Glacier 
flowed  at  a depth  of  from  three  to  four  thousand  feet 
above  its  present  level. 

Prof.  Horace  Briggs  thus  describes  this  wonderful 
frozen  river: 

“It  is  forty  miles  long,  and  back  on  the  land,  in 
a basin  of  the  mountains,  being  re-enforced  by  fifteen 
tributaries  coming  down  the  glens  from  different 
points  of  the  compass,  it  swells  to  an  icy  sea  twenty- 
five  miles  in  diameter.  Thence  it  moves  with  resist- 
less power,  bearing  rocks  and  long  lines  of  detritus 
on  its  billowy  surface.  Just  before  it  reaches  the 
Bay,  it  is  compressed  by  two  sentinel  mountains, 
and  is  forced  through  a gorge  over  one  mile  in  width. 
Emerging  from  this  narrow  gateway,  it  moves  on,  at 
the  rate  of  sixty  feet  a day,  to  the  waters  whence  it 


DESCRIPTION  OK  MUIR  GLACIER. 


45 


originally  came,  buttressing  the  Bay  with  a perpen- 
dicular wall  a thousand  feet  high,  three  hundred  feet 
of  ultramarine  crystals  tipped  with  purest  white 
being  above  the  surface,  and,  being  pushed  beyond 
its  support  in  the  underlying  rock,  a battle  begins 
between  cohesion  and  gravity.  The  latter  force 
always  prevails,  and  vast  masses  break  from  the  gla- 
cial torrent  with  the  combined  crash  of  falling  walls 
and  heavy  thunder,  and  tumble  into  the  Bay  with  a 
dash  and  a shock  that  agitates  the  waters  miles 
away,  making  navigation  perilous  to  craft  of  all  sizes. 
The  almost  deafening  roar  made  when  these  masses 
are  rent  away,  the  splashing  baptism  they  receive  in 
their  fall  and  the  leaping  waters,  are  lively  witnesses 
to  the  birth  of  an  iceberg,  which  henceforth,  as  an 
independent  existence,  goes  on  girding  the  shores, 
butting  against  its  fellows,  and  scaring  navigators. 
While  the  ship  was  resting  unmoored  near  the  front 
of  this  icy  barrier,  we  were  startled  by  the  sudden 
appearance  of  a mass  of  dark  crystal,  vastly  larger 
than  our  own  ship,  shooting  up  from  the  depths,  and 
tossing  our  steamer  as  if  it  were  an  egg-shell.  As 
the  vessel  careened,  the  frightened  passengers  were 
sent  whirling  against  each  other,  over  chairs  or  pros- 
trate upon  the  deck.  This  strange  visitor  had  doubt- 
less been  broken  off  from  the  roots  of  the  icy  moun- 
tain, hundreds  of  feet  below  the  surface,  and  hence 
had  unexpectedly  appeared  upon  the  scene.  Had  it 
struck  the  ship  fairly,  nothing  but  a miracle  could 
have  saved  us.  Having  recovered  somewhat  from 
our  amazement,  about  twenty  of  us  were  sent  on 
shore  in  the  Captain’s  gig.  Landing  some  distance 
below  the  ice-wall,  we  climbed  over  a hundred  feet 
up  a lateral  moraine,  crawled  shoe-deep  in  wet  gravel 


46  DESCRIPTION  OF  MUIR  GLACIER. 

down  into  the  valley  of  a glacial  river,  forded  it, 
paddled  through  glacial  mud  covered  with  a shingle 
of  slime  just  deep  enough  to  hide  the  creamy  pools, 
slipped  prostrate  upon  ice  made  treacherous  by  a thin 
disguise  of  detritus,  and  barked  our  shins  and  cut 
our  shoes  on  the  sharp,  angular  blocks  of  granite 
and  basalt  strewn  for  miles,  in  great  profusion,  along 
our  perilous  route. 

“ Blocks  of  finest  marble  hedged  our  pathway;  we 
trod  upon  chips  of  jasper  and  chalcedony,  the  product 
of  different  mountains  far  up  on  the  Peninsula,  and 
we  passed  two  exquisitely  beautiful  boulders  of 
veined  porphyry  weighing  two  or  three  hundred 
pounds  each,  rounded  and  polished  by  centuries  of 
attrition.  They  were  of  dark  purple,  streaked  with 
quartz  spotlessly  white,  very  desirable  specimens  for 
a cabinet  or  for  out-door  ornamentation.  After  more 
than  an  hour  of  plunging  and  sprawling,  and  of  pull- 
ing each  other  out  of  the  grey  mire,  about  half  of 
our  number  reached  the  uncovered  glacier.  At  the 
first  glance  we  felt  that  here  we  should  stand  with 
uncovered  heads,  for  we  were  in  the  presence  of  the 
marvelous  manifestations  of  superhuman  power  in 
action,  and  looked  with  unveiled  eyes  upon  the 
potent  agencies  by  which  much  of  this  planet  has 
been  fashioned.  Away  in  the  distance  was  the 
white  lake  fed  by  numerous  frozen  rivers,  and  these 
rivers  were  born  of  mountain  snows  fifty  miles  distant. 
The  white-robed  mountains  themselves,  aeons  of  the 
past,  were  smoothed  and  grooved  far  up  their  flinty 
sides,  when  this  same  glacier  was  three-fold  deeper, 
and  many  times  more  ponderous  and  mighty  than  it 
is  to-day.  Stretched  along  the  base  of  the  mountains 
to  where  they  are  only  a line  in  the  distance,  were 


CREVASSE  ON  TOP  OF  MUIR  GLACIER. 
From  photograph  7966,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  MUIR  GLACIER.  4 7 

the  records  of  those  grey  old  years  in  the  form  of 
moraines,  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  appearing 
like  a range  of  hills.  The  larger  portion  of  this 
crystal  river,  perhaps  an  eighth  of  a mile  in  width, 
is  heaved  into  rounded  hills  and  beetling  precipices, 
quite  resembling  the  sea  in  a storm,  while  the  mid- 
dle and  much  of  the  wider  part  is  splintered  into 
countless  spires  and  needles  and  pinnacles,  ten, 
twenty  and  thirty  feet  in  height,  and  of  a beautiful 
ultramarine  at  the  base,  shaded  to  a pure  white  at 
the  summit.  In  the  onward  march  of  the  Glacier, 
these  pinnacles  are  Occasionally  wrenched  from  their 
seats  in  the  solid  ice  beneath,  they7  nod,  then  totter, 
and  then  make  a plunge,  and  are  shattered  into  a 
cloud  of  acicular  crystals  that  sparkle  like  the  frosted 
snow  under  a full  moon  of  a winter’s  night,  only 
with  more  of  color;  they  are  diamonds  on  the  wing. 
Again,  the  whole  surface  is  riven  by  a thousand 
crevasses,  along  the  bottom  of  which  streams  of  clear 
water  find,  their  way,  often  broken  by  waterfalls  that 
plunge  farther  down  into  the  dark  blue  abysses  out 
of  sight.  These  chasms  are  frightful  gaps  to  one 
peering  down  a hundred  feet  or  more  between  their 
turquoise  walls.  A slip,  a frail  alpenstock,  a feeble 
grasp  of  the  guide’s  rope,  and  gravity  would  close 
the  scene  without  further  ceremony.  The  molecular 
structure  of  the  glacier  is  continually  changing,  ad- 
justing itself  to  the  elevation  and  depressions  of  its 
rocky  bed,  and  hence  there  is  an  incessant  clicking 
and  crackling,  interrupted  here  and  there  by  an 
explosion,  heard  over  every  inch  of  the  surface.  The 
whole  scene  is  weird,  and  strange  in  sight  and  sound 
— in  the  voices  that  rise  in  the  air  from  the  azure 
depths — fascinating  because  every7  step  is  perilous, 


48 


DESCRIPTION  OE  MUIR  GLACIER. 


majestic  from  its  massiveness,  and  awful  because  its 
march  is  irresistible.  Consider  what  a force  in  wear- 
ing away  mountains  and  glens  an  icy  torrent  must 
be,  more  than  one  mile  wide,  almost  a thousand  feet 
deep,  and  in  the  middle  flowing  about  seventy  feet  a 
day.  It  goes  grinding,  and  groaning,  and  cracking 
in  startling  explosions,  all  mingled  in  a loud  wail 
like  that  from  the  Titans  imprisoned  under  Mt. 
AMna.  Now  let  any  one  in  fancy  frame  for  himself 
this  picture: 

“Snow-capped  mountains  in  the  background,  two 
of  them,  Fairweather  and  Crillon,  more  than  15,000 
feet  high,  thick  set  with  glittering  peaks  and  clear 
cut  as  silhouettes  on  a dark  sky;  the  great  Glacier, 
child  of  Arctic  snows,  turreted  and  pinnacled,  and 
splintered  into  a thousand  strange  forms,  upon  which 
Iris  has  flung  the  varied  hues  of  amethyst,  turquoise 
and  sapphire;  huge  masses  riven  from  the  crystal 
river  with  a thundering  roar,  reeling  and  toppling 
into  an  amber  sea,  thickly  dotted  with  new-born  and 
vagrant  icebergs,  and  all  this  scene  glorified  and 
transfigured  by  the  setting  sun.  Looking  upon  this 
picture  through  the  creative  power  of  imagination, 
one  can  readily  conceive  that  the  enraptured  tourist, 
standing  in  the  presence  of  the  realities,  would  call 
that  day  spent  with  the  Muir  Glacier,  the  day  of  all 
days  he  ever  passed  in  gazing  upon  and  listening  to 
the  wild  wonders  of  our  planet.” 

All  contemporary  authorities  coincide  as  to  the 
grandeur  and  extent  of  the  Muir  Glacier.  The  evi- 
dence of  the  more  recent  visitors  is  not  only  corrobo- 
rative of  that  of  Muir  and  the  early  explorers  fol- 
lowing him,  but  becomes  so  enthusiastic  that  it 
would  seem  to  run  to  exaggeration  were  exaggera- 


DISCHARGE  OF  THE  MUIR. 


49 


tion  possible  to  the  beholder  of  one  of  the  grandest 
and  most  awe-inspiring  spectacles  of  the  power  of 
natural  forces. 

Rev.  Thomas  Rogers,  of  Rochester,  New  York,  in 
describing  the  Muir  Glacier,  designates  it,  a “frozen 
Niagara.”  He  particularizes  that  great  congealed 
cataract  as  stretched  across  the  neck  of  Glacier  Bay, 
a distance  of  several  thousand  feet,  and  rising  per- 
pendicularly a distance  of  three  hundred  feet,  and 
extending  below  the  water  about  seven  hundred  feet. 

Prof.  Frederick  G.  Wright,  of  Oberlin,  Ohio,  esti- 
mates that  the  ice-discharge  of  the  Muir  Glacier  into 
the  waters  of  Glacier  Bay  is  140,000,000  cubic  feet  of 
the  clearest  ice  in  every  twenty-four  hours. 

Kate  Field,  whose  great  descriptive  powers  are  so 
well  known,  says  that  no  pen  can  do  justice  to  the 
grandeur  of  a glacier  like  the  Muir,  as  all  become 
spell-bound  at  its  majestic  and  irresistible  force  and 
indescribable  beauty. 

“Imagine,”  says  she,  “Niagara  Falls  frozen  a 
solid  wall  of  ice,  three  hundred  feet  high,  moving 
toward  the  ocean  at  the  rate  of  eighty  feet  a day,  and 
a similar  wall  six  or  seven  hundred  feet  under  water 
and  the  whole  mass  cracking  and  giving  forth  peals 
of  thunder  that  rival  the  heavenly  artillery,  and 
every  few  moments  thousands  of  tons  of  lovely  blue 
ice,  Clashing  into  the  sea  and  starting  on  a voyage 
as  icebergs — a peril  to  the  Arctic  voyager — and  you 
will  have  some  slight  conception  of  this  imposing 
spectacle.  ” 

No  important  glaciers  are  found  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  which  is  anomalous,  considering  the 
great  height  of  that  range.  A few  small  glaciers, 
however,  are  found  in  the  Wind  River  range  in 


5° 


SOME  SOUTHERN  GLACIERS. 


Wyoming  and  near  the  headwaters  of  the  Flathead, 
in  Montana.  The  most  southern  series  of  glaciers 
in  the  Sierra  Nevadas  are  in  Tuolumne  and  Mono 
Counties,  just  east  of  the  valley  of  the  Yosemite. 
The  greatest  of  these,  however,  is  not  over  a mile  in 
length  and  none  -extend  below  an  altitude  of  11,000 
feet.  The  next  glaciers  of  any  importance  are  on 
Mt.  Shasta,  California,  and  then  in  the  Cascade 
Range  in  Washington,  particularly  on  Mt.  Tacoma. 
The  waters  of  the  Cowlitz,  the  Nisqually,  the  Puy- 
allup and  White  Rivers  originate  in  glaciers  high 
up  in  the  flanks  of  the  mountains.  From  Mt. 
Tacoma  northward  the  glaciers  increase  in  size  and 
number  through  the  Coast  Range  of  British  Colum- 
bia and  southern  Alasna  to  the  Mt.  St.  Elias  Range 
of  Mountains.  It  is  not,  however,  until  the  Stikine 
River  in  Alaska  is  reached — in  latitude  57° — that 
glaciers  become  easily  accessible  and  of  size  suffic- 
ient to  warrant  study.  The  water  emptying  into  the 
Sound  from  Stikine  River  is  highly  charged  with 
glacial  mud — a sort  of  “float,”  as  a mining  pros- 
pector would  call  it,  which  acts  as  a guide  to  the  gla- 
cier above,  but  the  greatest  of  the  glaciers  in  this 
vicinity  has  not,  at  this  writing,  been  fully  explored. 
A party  of  Russian  officers  made  the  attempt  a num- 
ber of  years  ago,  and  none  returned  to  tell  the  tale. 

Not  the  least  interesting  of  the  world’s  glaciers  are 
those  of  Greenland,  one  of  the  great  unknown  lands 
of  the  earth.  The  area  of  Greenland  is  estimated  at 
500,000  square  miles,  and  the  whole  of  this  broad 
expanse,  except  a narrow  border  at  the  southern  end, 
is  one  vast  sheet  of  moving  ice,  pushing  onward  to- 
ward the  sea.  Nordenskiold,  the  great  Arctic 
explorer,  believed  that  a portion  of  the  interior  of 


nordenskiold’s  theory. 


5* 


Greenland  was  free  from  ice  and  might  be  inhabited, 
and  in  1883  made  the  attempt  to  penetrate  the  mys- 
tery. He  ventured  for  a distance  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  at  about  five  thousand  feet  above 
sea-level;  from  here  he  sent  two  Eskimo  on  a kind 
of  ice-shoe,  known  as  a skidor.  These  Indians  went 
about  seventy  miles  further,  to  an  altitude  of  about 
six  thousand  feet.  They  found  the  ice  rising  in 
terraces  and  seemingly  boundless  beyond,  and  as 
further  penetration  was  impossible,  the  explorer 
abandoned  his  project,  and  Greenland  remains,  so 
far  as  Science  has  demonstrated  to  the  contrary,  one 
great  continent  of  shifting,  rushing  ice. 

It  may  be  said  that  there  is  scarcely  a section  of 
the  known  world  that  is  free  from  living,  or  the  evi- 
dence of  pre-existing  glaciers.  There  are  known 
glaciers  to-day  on  the  island  of  Spitzbergen,  in  Nor- 
way and  Sweden,  in  central  Europe,  in  Southern 
Asia,  in  Patagonia,  in  Chili  and  New  Zealand,  and 
all  over  North  America  are  scattered  the  plain  and 
unmistakable  evidences  of  glacial  action.  There  are 
over  four  hundred  identified  glaciers  in  the  Alps, 
between  Mt.  Blanc  and  the  Tyrol,  covering  an  area 
of  1,400  square  miles  and  in  places  of  a thickness  of 
six  hundred  feet.  The  line  of  perpetual  snow  in  the 
Alps  is  seven  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  sea- 
level,  and  the  glaciers  extend  as  low  down  as  four 
thousand  feet.  According  to  data  collected  by 
various  scientists,  these  ice  bodies  have  enlarged  and 
diminished  at  various  periods  and  still  continue  to 
thus  expand  and  contract.  The  Scandinavian  glacier 
snow-fields  cover  an  area  of  five  thousand  square 
miles.  From  the  snow  plateau  of  Justedal  alone — 
which  covers  an  area  of  five  hundred  and  eighty 


52 


MORAINES. 


square  miles — tliere  descends  twenty-four  glaciers 
toward  the  North  German  Sea. 

The  great  North  American  ice-sheet  of  the  glacial 
era  would  seem  from  the  deductions  of  science  to 
have  had  an  independent  movement  in  various  por- 
tions of  the  continent,  and  an  interesting  evidence 
of  this  is  quoted  in  the  drift  region  of  south- 
western Wisconsin  and  parts  of  Illinois,  Iowa  and 
Minnesota,  which  must  have  remained  an  island 
while  all  around  it  was  ice.  All  the  evidences  go  to 
show  that  this  particular  area  escaped  the  attrition 
that  was  going  on  all  around  it  by  the  pressure  and 
movement  of  ponderous  bodies  of  ice. 

In  this  connection  a few  words  about  “Moraines” 
may  be  pertinent.  A “Moraine,”  as  defined  geo- 
logically, is:  “A  line  of  blocks  and  gravel  extending 
along  the  sides  of  separate  glaciers  formed  by  the 
union  of  one  or  more  separate  ones.”  As  showing 
that  the  depressions  of  the  Sierra  Nevada — those 
depressions  that  make  channels  in  a westerly 
direction,  whether  they  consist  of  a gulch,  a ravine, 
a canyon,  a river-course  or  a dead  and  extinct  river, 
are  moraines;  simple  observation  is  all  that  is 
necessary,  and,  this  being  granted,  it  must  follow 
that  at  one  time  the  Sierra  Nevada  Range  was  a 
great  bed  of  glaciers,  and  that  it  is  the  attrition  of 
these  great  glacial  forces  that  has  stored  the  sides 
of  these  courses  with  gravel  and  cobbles  that  have 
been  ground  from  great  boulders,  which,  in  their 
time,  had  been  detached  in  masses,  smaller  or  larger, 
from  deep-set  rocks,  from  a period  anterior  to  that  of 
the  Glacial.  Every  prospector  who  ever  swung  a 
poll-pick  or  delved  for  gold  in  the  ravines,  gulches, 
bars,  flats  or  streams  of  California,  recognizes  the 


' 


GLACIAL  EROSION  ON  MOUNTAIN MUIR  GLACIER 

Effect  as  shown  1000  feet  above  the  sea  level. 


MORAINES. 


53 


moraine  as  tlie  deposition  from  some  powerful  force 
moving  irresistibly  from  above,  but  did  not  recognize 
it  by  tlie  name  of  moraine,  because  that  was  too 
scientific  for  the  most  of  them.  In  the  main  they 
attributed  the  evident  attrition  to  the  action  of  water 
from  the  melting  snows  at  the  summits;  but,  even  to 
the  amateur  geologist,  and,  in  fact,  to  any  intelli- 
gent student  of  the  subject,  there  is  a difference  in 
the  character  of  the  detrius  which  comes  down  from 
the  action  of  the  water-shed,  and  the  material  which 
forms  the  moraine.  The  one  shows  either  a pol- 
ished surface  in  pieces  in  size  from  a cobble  upwards, 
Avhile  the  smaller  particles  show  a distinct  polishing 
plainly  attributable  to  the  action  of  water,  and  the 
smallest  are  merely  disintegrations  caused  by  wash- 
ing. The  material  of  the  moraine  in  most  cases 
shows  a striated  surface  as  if  subjected  to  a simul- 
taneous pushing  and  grinding  action,  evidently  the 
effect  of  the  friction  of  solid  or  semi-solid  matter,  and 
the  smaller  or  movable  stones  are  ground  and  pol- 
ished as  smooth  as  glass.  Terminal  moraines  clearly 
traced  to  glacial  action  are  found  all  over  the  conti- 
nent, as  well  as  “kettle”  moraines,  the  latter  being 
most  prominent  in  the  State  of  Wisconsin.  The 
Missouri  River,  that  great  channel  from  the  moun- 
tains to  the  sea,  shows  a moraine  plainly  along  its 
banks  in  its  upper  portions,  and  from  this  fact  it  was 
once  thought  that  a distinct  line  of  terminal  moraine 
might  be  traced  across  the  continent.  Professors  G. 
Frederick  Wright  and  H.  Carvill  Lewis  made  the 
attempt  to  verify  this  theory  in  1881,  and  began  the 
survey  in  Pennsylvania,  but,  on  crossing  the  Alle- 
ghanies  and  reaching  the  Mississippi  Valley,  con- 
tinuity ceased  and  nothing  was  found  but  marginal 


54 


MORAINES. 


deposits  somewhat  evenly  spread  over  the  country, 
but  ending  in  extremely  attenuated  borders,  and  the 
theory  of  a continuous  ridge  of  glacial  accumulations 
was  abandoned  and  has  not  since  been  seriously 
asserted.  It  is  on  the  south-east  coast  of  Massachu- 
setts that  the  true  moraine  of  the  glacier  is  most 
noticeable  on  the  American  continent,  and  the  most 
easily  traced.  Prof.  Wright  holds  that  Nantucket, 
Tuckernuck,  Chappaquiddick,  Martha’s  Vineyard, 
No  Man’s  Land  and  Block  Island,  on  that  coast,  are 
but  portions  of  a terminal  moraine,  whose  back 
in  places  emerges  from  the  water,  appearing  as 
islands.  This  authority  cites  many  other  instances 
on  the  Massachusetts  coast  of  prominent  places  that 
are  ‘‘made  land,”  dumped  as  a moraine  by  the  gla- 
cier’s mammoth  wheelbarrow.  The  same  writer  also 
disposes  of  the  illusion  that  the  Pilgrim  Fathers 
landed  upon  a “rock-bound  shore.”  He  says  that 
the  supposed  rock-bound  coast  is  composed  merely  of 
“morainic  accumulations  of  glacial  margins,”  and 
that  the  three  hundred  and  sixty  lakes  of  Plymouth 
township  are  nothing  else  than  a cluster  of  kettle 
holes  caused  by  glacial  action.  The  Professor 
destroys  a good  deal  of  Puritan  tradition  when  he 
makes  the  rock-bound  shore  of  Massachusetts  noth- 
ing but  an  accumulation  of  sand  and  boulders,  and 
incurs  the  danger  of  real  New  England  wrath  when 
he  calls  the  Plymouth  lakes  nothing  but  kettle  holes. 
But  he  is  a clear  observer,  and  has  made  glacial  phil- 
osophy a close  and  earnest  study. 

As  to  this  moraine  theory,  moraine  lines  are  so 
plainly  marked  wherever  glaciers  exist,  or  are  known 
or  assumed  to  have  existed,  that  the  moraine  simply 
stands  as  a proof  of  the  pre-existence  of  glaciers, 


MORAINES. 


55 


great  or  small,  as  marked  by  the  debris.  That  all 
over  the  world  are  these  moraines  marking  the  spots 
where  glaciers  now  extinct  once  existed,  makes  the 
presence  of  great,  living  and  visible  glaciers  and 
their  attendant  icebergs  in  Alaska  and  other  portions 
of  the  west  coast  of  North  America,  the  more  inter- 
esting from  a geological  and  otherwise  scientific 
standpoint,  and,  if  we  accept  the  theory — which  has 
every  semblance  of  reason — that  the  movement  of  the 
earth  is  constantly  to  the  northward,  at  a rapid  rate, 
considering  the  size  of  the  planet,  the  time  may  come 
when  even  these  great  phenomena  of  Nature  shall 
have  been  dissipated  and  their  track  only  marked  by 
the  moraine  which  they  themselves  created.  It  does 
not  follow  from  this  that  the  present  generation,  if  it 
wishes  to  see  a real  live  glacier,  must  pack  its  valise 
and  start  for  Alaska  at  once;  but  delays  are  danger- 
ous, and  the  person  who  waits  a few  thousand  years 
before  visiting  Alaska  will  be  very  liable  to  miss  one 
of  the  grandest,  most  interesting  and  thrilling 
natural  sights  ever  vouchsafed  to  human  vision. 


CHAPTER  V. 


THE  NATIVE  RACES. 


Pre-Historic  Theories. — Alaska’s  Progress. — - 
Divisions  oe  the  Nations,  Tribes  and  Clans. — 
PIyperborean  Group.  — The  Eskimo  of  the 
North.— Cannibalistic  Koniagas.— The  Aleuts 
and  Intermixtures  of  the  Aleutian  Chain. — - 
The  Savage  Tinneh. — The  Fierce  and  War- 
like Thlinkets. — Habits,  Customs,  Supersti- 
tions and  Morals  of  the  Tribes. 


first  theory  presents  the  idea  of  the  descent  of  man- 
kind from  a single  pair  and  is  advocated  by  theolog- 
ians and  accepted  by  the  vast  majority  of  Christendom. 
Another  division  of  this  school  are  the  dissenters 
from  this  fundamental  idea  and  advocated  by  such 
scholars  as  Agassis  and  Gliddon  who  support  the 
theory  of  the  separate  races  with  their  peculiarities. 
Darwin  and  Huxley  support  the  third  hypothesis, 
which  is  based  on  the  principal  of  evolution.  There 
have  risen,  possibly  from  the  three  schools,  but  more 


with  its  profound  research  and 
investigation  certainly  has  not 
solved  the  mystery  of  how  the 
world  was  peopled.  The  two 
principal  hypotheses  advanced 
as  to  the  origin  of  mankind 
have  found  advocates  in  the 
thinking  minds  for  ages.  The 


has  not,  and  science 


THE  HYPERBOREAN  GROUP. 


57 


likely  from  the  first — as  they  cannot  grant  the  evolu- 
tion or  the  separate  creation  hypotheses — theorizers 
in  plenty  who  have  not  been  backward  in  their  spec- 
ulations as  the  descent  of  the  aborigines  of  the 
American  continent.  These  savants,  many  of  them, 
have  found  in  these  northern  tribes  a connecting  link 
between  the  inhabitants  of  the  New  and  the  Old 
World.  On  this  subject  much  energy  has  been 
expended,  much  good  paper  wasted,  and  we  are  left 
page  upon  page  of  dubious  analogies  and  volumes  of 
cosmographical,  etnologieal  and  etymological  hypo- 
theses. It  is  not  impossible,  nor  yet  improbable, 
that  at  some  time  people  from  Asia  might  have 
reached  these  shores  in  numbers,  but  I can  find  no 
authentic  trace  of  them,  and  I can  advance  no  theory 
of  a pre-historic  arrival. 

With  this  brief  introduction,  and  without  further 
touching  upon  the  origin  of  the  races,  I will  take  up 
the  discussion  of  this  Hyperborean  group  whose 
southern  limits  some  authorities  accept  as  the  fifty- 
fifth  parallel,  while  others  include  under  this  head 
the  Indians  of  the  Columbia  River.  The  scope  of 
this  chapter  is  too  limited  to  permit  taking  up  in 
detail  the  various  nations  of  Alaska,  or  of  treating 
separately  the  various  tribes  into  which  they  are 
divided;  but  to  the  Thlinkets,  they  being  the  people 
with  whom  tourists  come  in  contact,  I will  give  par- 
ticular attention,  presenting  to  the  reader  the  most 
salient  points  wherein  they  differ  from  the  more 
northern  nations.  As  every  ethnologist  segregates 
these  people  according  to  his  own  idea,  I adopt  the 
plan  which  is  better  sriited  to  the  purposes  of  this 
work.  Accordingly,  the  first  of  the  group  is  the 
Eskimo  in  the  north,  who  inhabits  the  shores  of  the 


58 


thlinket  characteristics. 


Arctic  Ocean;  the  Koniagas  inhabiting  the  extreme 
western  coast,  bordering  on  the  Behring  Sea  and  the 
Pacific  Ocean  and  the  Koniagan  Islands;  the  Aleuts 
who  people  the  Aleutian  Archipelago;  the  tribes  of 
the  Tinneh  who  occupy  the  vast  territory  between 
the  land  of  the  Eskimos  and  that  of  the  Thlinkets 
from  the  Hudson  Bay  west  of  the  Koniagas  country; 
and  fifth,  the  Thlinkets  who  inhabit  the  coast  and 
islands  from  the  Copper  River  south. 

In  the  Thlinkets  we  find  a greater  development, 
physically  and  mentally,  than  exists  among  the 
inhabitants  of  more  northern  sections.  While  the 
nobler  qualities  of  the  man  are  brought  to  the  sur- 
face, the  savage  nature  is  intensified,  and  while 
cruelty  and  stoicism  are  reduced  to  a science  that 
would  rival  the  Indians  of  the  plains,  industry,  some 
idea  of  modesty  and  conjugal  fidelity  appear  among 
these  people,  and  they  are  spoken  of  as  brave,  shewd, 
intelligent  and  possessing  a respect  for  women  and 
the  aged  not  to  be  found  elsewhere  among  savage 
races.  They  are  a more  warlike  nation  than  their 
northern  neighbors.  They  employ  the  usual  Indian 
cunning  and  trickery  in  their  warfare,  and  their 
male  prisoners  were  killed  by  torture  and  the  women 
doomed  to  slavery.  This  system  is,  however,  almost 
entirely  done  away  with.  The  Thlinkets  were  long 
antagonistic  to  the  Russians,  and  the  fiercest  of  the 
nation,  the  Chilkat  and  Chilkoot  tribes,  have,  until 
late  years,  been  hostile  to  all  whites.  Other  marked 
characteristics  of  the  Thlinkets  is  their  ingenuity  in 
the  manufacture  of  domestic  utensils  and  implements 
of  warfare  and  working  in  metals  in  which  they  ex- 
cel. They  have  a love  for  art  and  music,  and  exhibit 
some  skill  in  the  former  in  their  carving  and  metal 


. 


AUK  INDIANS,  NEAR  JUNEAU. 
From  photograph  7850,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


PERSONAL  ADORNMENT. 


59 


work.  Not  so  in  their  personal  adornment  however, 
for,  in  common  with  other  Alaskans,  they  are  given 
to  the  barbaric  practice  of  embellishing  nature  and 
far  surpass  their  neighbors  in  their  models  of  hideous 
beauty.  The  ears  and  nose  of  the  men  are  pierced, 
and  from  them  are  hung  rings  and  devices  in  shell, 
bone,  wood  and  copper,  and  the  head  is  variegated 
with  greasy  colors.  Tattoeing  is  practiced  by  draw- 
ing a colored  thread  under  the  skin.  The  women 
also  pierce  the  nose  and  ears,  introducing  such 
weights  as  to  draw  the  features  out  of  place.  But 
the  acme  of  Thlinket  loveliness  is  attained  in  the 
lip-button.  To  insert  this,  the  lip  is  cut,  at  an  early 
age,  in  a slit  parallel  with  the  mouth  and  about  half 
way  between  it  and  the  chin;  a wire  or  stick  is  in- 
serted which  is  gradually  enlarged,  thus  keeping  a 
constant  strain  upon  the  aperture  which  increases  in 
size  and  assumes  the  appearance  of  a second  mouth. 

Upon  the  maiden  arriving  at  maturity  a large 
wooden  button,  rather  the  shape  of  the  bowl  of  a 
spoon,  is  inserted,  and  as  the  button  is  enlarged  with 
age,  in  proportion  is  the  dignity  and  importance  of  the 
matron  augmented.  Writers  give  the  dimensions  of 
the  button  variously  at  from  one  to  three  inches  in 
length  and  a quarter  of  an  inch  in  width.  I saw 
some  very  large  ones,  and  I think  this  diversity  is 
accounted  for  by  the  various  sizes  worn  according  to 
the  age  of  the  wearer;  but  generally  they  were  about 
the  size  of  a large  button. 

The  Thlinket  marriage  is  somewhat  peculiar  for 
having  more  show  of  form  than  is  deemed  essential 
with  most  Hyperboreans.  Upon  presenting  what 
valuables  he  can  afford  to  the  maiden’s  parents,  the 
young  brave  arrives,  his  friends  gather,  and  in  feast- 


6o 


MARRIAGE  CUSTOMS. 


ing  and  dancing  rejoice  for  him — not  with  him,  as 
he  and  his  affianced  take  no  part  in  this  rite.  To 
insure  felicity  in  after  life,  a four  days’  fast  is  en- 
tered upon  and  continued  with  but  a single  break 
after  the  second  day;  in  four  weeks  the  couple  come 
together  as  man  and  wife.  Pologamy  is  common, 
but  as  the  woman  brings  no  material  profit  to  the 
common  household  fund,  and  as  tribal  taxes  are 
levied  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  wives,  a plur- 
ality of  wives  comes  high  and  is  a luxury  to  be 
indulged  in  only  by  the  wealthy.  The  natives  of 
this  Sitkan  region  formerly  burned  their  dead  aud 
the  ashes  were  gathered  into  a basket  and  swung 
between  two  poles  near  the  water.  The  personal 
belongings  of  the  deceased  were  burned  with  him, 
together  with  such  things  as  were  deemed  needful 
for  his  comfort  in  the  future  state;  but  in  the  present 
condition  of  civilization  the  dead  are  generally 
accorded  a Christian  burial. 

A more  distinct  caste  or  clanship  is  found  among 
them  than  exists  in  other  Hyperborean  nations. 
There  exist  individuals  of  long  pedigree  who  are 
noted  for  their  hereditary  wealth  and  their  prowess, 
and  from  these  their  chiefs  are  chosen;  the  choice 
generally  being  elective,  but  in  some  cases  the  chief- 
tainship has  been  inherited  for  many  generations. 
The  authority  of  these  chiefs  is  nominal,  but  they 
possess  much  influence.  As  is  general  with  the 
Hyperboreans,  each  family  has  its  own  regulations 
and  the  head  of  the  house  is  the  supreme  authority 
thereof,  while  the  chief  can  do  nothing  without  the 
consent  of  the  several  families  of  the  hamlet  over 
which  he  presides.  Hunting  aud  fishing  grounds 
are  staked  out  and  handed  from  generation  to  gener- 


GOVERNMENT  AND  INDUSTRIES. 


61 


ation,  while  they  have  a custom  of  renting  their 
lands  at  a percentage  of  the  products.  The  bound- 
aries are  zealously  guarded,  and  poaching  within 
the  domains  of  another  receives  the  severest  penalty 
visited  upon  theft.  These  observations  on  the  gov- 
ernment of  the  Thlinkets  will  hold  good,  in  the  main, 
for  the  Hyperborean  group.  Nowhere  is  the  authority 
of  the  chiefs  arbitrary,  but,  as  in  every  community, 
there  is  a ruling  spirit,  so  the  Indian,  by  a show  of 
superior  ability,  a display  of  uncommon  wisdom, 
can  gain  much  influence  over  his  less  gifted  brethren. 
It  is  from  such  that  their  chiefs  are  chosen,  and  in 
this  particular  they  are  very  democratic. 

The  Thlinkets  spin  and  make  blankets  from  the 
white  wool  of  the  goat,  baskets  and  mats  from  grasses, 
and  pipes  and  other  utensils  from  clay.  In  trade  they 
are  cunning  and  resort  to  many  sharp  practices  to 
dispense  with  their  wares,  while  every  article  they 
receive  in  return  undergoes  the  closest  scrutiny. 
They  are  thievish  and  given  to  lying,  and,  while 
theft  among  their  own  people  has  met  with  punish- 
ment by  death,  the  wrong,  when  perpetrated  against 
a member  of  another  elan,  is  readily  attoned  for  by 
the  payment  of  a few  blankets  or  furs,  and  to  steal 
from  the  whites  is  a sin  only  in  the  discovery  as 
reflecting  upon  their  skill.  The  Thlinket  is  prone 
to  drunkenness,  and  they  had  a fermented  beverage 
of  their  own  before  the  advent  of  the  trader  and  his 
whisky.  The  northern  tribes,  on  the  contrary,  are 
a sober  people — with  the  exception,  perhaps,  of  the 
Aleuts,  who  have  been  long  under  the  influence  of 
the  trader. 

Cleanliness  is  not  a virtue  with  the  northern  fam- 
ily, and  the  Thlinket  is  no  exception  to  the  rule. 


62 


HYPERBOREAN  HABITS. 


They  seldom  apply  water  to  the  person,  and  for  some 
emotion,  frequently  smear  themselves  with  grease 
and  rub  it  off  with  a bark  brush.  They  also  employ  ‘ 
a steam  or  sweat  bath  by  closing  their  houses  and 
pouring  water  on  hot  stones,  and  rolling  themselves 
in  their  blankets  to  enjoy  the  natural  results.  About 
their  hamlets  they  are  even  less  abstersive,  having 
no  conception  of  sanitary  laws. 

The  chief  characteristics  and  peculiarities,  mental 
and  physical,  of  a savage  people  are  formed  by  the 
advantages  or  disadvantages  under  which  they  labor 
for  their  mere  existence,  and  the  conditions  of  their 
being  are  ordered  according  to  their  needs  in  their 
struggle  for  life.  Thus  the  Thlinket  village  is  sit- 
uated in  a sheltered  place  on  the  coast,  handy  to  land 
the  canoes  and  near  the  best  halibut  and  salmon 
runs,  as  these  fish  form  their  staple  food;  the  Eskimo 
hamlet  is  convenient  to  some  cove  of  sufficient  depth 
to  float  a whale,  which  is  towed  in  by  the  hunters, 
and  the  Tinneh,  being  essentially  an  inland  people, 
gather  their  huts  together  in  the  best  game  regions 
and  sometimes  build  them  as  strong  stockades.  And 
so  with  each;  according  to  his  needs  and  as  nature  has 
placed  him,  man  conforms. 

Then,  their  occupations  and  the  various  climates 
show  in  the  man.  The  Alaskan  Eskimo  is  of  the 
same  stock  as  those  of  Greenland  and  of  which  latter 
ethnologists  agree  upon  as  being  of  American  con- 
tinental origin.  They  are  of  medium  height,  mus- 
cular and  active,  short  in  the  legs  and  with  small 
feet  and  hands,  broad  face,  high  cheek  bones,  light 
complexion  and  teeth  nearfy  worn  to  stumps  by  the 
practice  of  chewing  hides  in  tanning.  The  Koniagas 
inhabit  a wild,  rugged  territory,  and  tradition  records 


PHYSICAL  DEVELOPMENT. 


63 


an  early  immigration  from  the  north  and  a blending 
with  the  south  whereby  the  two  characters  under- 
went a marked  change.  They  are  a hardy  people 
who  once  numbered  many  thousand,  but  were  sadly 
depopulated  by  the  cruel  severity  of  Russian  rule. 
In  this  respect  the  Aleuts  too  have  greatly  suffered. 
Reduced  by  the  invaders  to  slavery  and  subjected  to 
the  most  barbarous  treatment,  their  numbers  soon 
decreased,  and  long  contact  and  intermixtures  with 
the  Russians  have  effaced  many  originalities.  They 
are  sluggish  by  nature,  but  strong  of  body  and  of 
great  endurance,  with  strong  passions  that  lie  dor- 
mant, but  when  aroused  render  them  capable  of  any 
extreme.  As  I have  said,  the  Tinneh  are  essen- 
tially an  inland  people.  They  spread  over  the  great 
area  of  central  Alaska,  for  the  most  part  unknown, 
and  extend  into  British  territory  in  the  east.  Man)" 
petty  tribes  go  to  make  up  a nation  of  tall,  brawny 
and  sturdy  hunters,  who  are  described  as  being  an 
inferior  race — at  least  lacking  in  appearance.  The 
Tinneh  character  is  variously  described,  but  the  best 
testimony  goes  to  give  them  a reputation  for  probity 
and  sobriety  while  calling  them  vagrant  and  indo- 
lent. When  more  southern  climes  and  more  con- 
genial surroundings  are  reached,  a finer  race  of  man 
is  found,  and  greater  beauty  in  the  physical  type. 
This  is  exemplified  in  the  Thlinkets.  They  are 
more  graceful  in  their  proportions  than  the  men 
of  the  north,  but  as  the  Thlinket  seldom  moves, 
save  in  his  canoe,  his  upper  limbs  and  body 
are  overly  developed  in  proportion  to  his  lower 
extremities. 

I have  thus  outlined  the  marked  characteristics  of 
the  races  of  the  north.  Look  now  at  some  of  the 


64 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  HOUSFS. 


manners  and  customs  prevailing  more  or  less 
throughout  the  class  or  group. 

The  Hyperborean  palate  is  anything  but  delicate, 
though  taste  may  be  a degree  more  refined  among 
the  Thlinkets.  They  will  eat  absolutely  anything 
digestible,  while  cooking  is  not  a necessity  with 
them,  nor  am  I positive  that  it  is  deemed  a luxury. 
They  are  less  nomadic  than  the  Indians  of  the  plains, 
living  in  hamlets  the  greater  part  of  the  time  and 
migrating  at  such  times  as  is,  in  their  several 
regions,  most  propitious,  in  quest  of  winter  stores. 
At  such  times  they  construct  temporary  abodes  on 
or  near  their  fields  of  industry.  Their  houses  are 
very  similarly  constructed,  the  primary  idea  being 
one  large  room  below  the  surface  of  the  ground  and 
roofed  over  from  a ridge-pole  with  hides  or  bark, 
leaving  in  the  center  a large  smoke  hole.  Even  the 
Eskimos  erect  their  houses  so,  using  ice  and  snow 
for  a covering.  Many  houses  have  a store-room,  and 
among  some  people,  several  nooks  are  constructed 
for  separate  sleeping  apartments.  The  entrance  to 
the  house  is  through  underground  passages,  vari- 
ously protected  against  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather  and  fresh  air,  so  that  the  only  ventilation  of 
the  room  is  through  the  smoke-hole,  and  from  three 
to  six  families  call  this  home. 

The  superficial  marriage  ceremonies  of  the  Hyper- 
reans,  too  shallow  to  be  so  called,  consist  in  some 
parts  of  taking  a wife  at  pleasure — to  be  dispensed 
with  as  readily — while  in  other  sections  the  father 
must  be  compensated,  more  or  less  liberally.  Poly- 
gamy is  universal  with  them,  the  number  of  a man’s 
wives  being  limited  only  by  his  ability  to  support 
them.  Among  some  of  the  tribes  the  women  are 


BARBARIC  STOICISM. 


65 


entitled  to  more  than  one  husband.  Modesty  is  said 
to  exist  in  a measure  among  the  Thlinkets,  but  cer- 
tainly nowhere  in  the  north  has  it  reached  the  par- 
excellence  of  the  civilized  conception  of  the  term. 
Nor  is  morality  a quality  that  carries  with  it  much 
weight,  while  virtue  is  variously  “ praised  but  is  not 
cherished.”  The  Hyperborean  vice  is  gambling.  A 
lesson,  early  instilled  in  the  young  mind,  is  the 
doctrine  of  the  inferiority  of  women,  and  the  young 
brave  seldom  deviates  from  the  course  so  early 
mapped  out  for  him. 

In  the  finish  of  their  barbaric  stoicism,  they  ap- 
proach the  American  Indian  proper.  To  toughen 
themselves  the  better  to  withstand  the  rigidity7,  of  the 
climate,  the  young  man  will  emerge  from  his  vapor 
bath,  nude,  and  plunge  into  the  nearest  stream, 
oftentimes  having  to  break  the  ice,  and  then,  after 
rolling  in  the  snow,  return  to  his  hut,  laboring  under 
the  impression  that  he  has  had  a nice  time.  Mothers 
subject  their  infants  to  this  severe  treatment  with 
the  same  object  in  view.  In  their  improvements  upon 
nature  they  submit  to  many  tortures  in  tattooing  and 
cutting  the  flesh,  most  of  which  is  done  while  they 
are  very  young,  and,  where  shamanism  thrives  most, 
cruelty  is  reduced  to  its  most  exquisite  art. 

Superstitious  the  Alaskan  aborigine  can  hardly  be 
called.  That  is,  he  does  not  allow  himself  to  be 
governed  by  the  natural  phenomenon,  which  in  such 
a measure  surrounds  him,  nor  will  he  be  swayed  by 
the  appearance  of  the  weather,  sun,  moon  or  stars, 
but  will  fish,  hunt  or  perform  any  duty  he  may  be 
called  upon  to  execute  under  any  conditions  whatso- 
ever. The  one  phenomena  productive  of  awe  in 
these  tawny  sons  of  nature  is  the  miracle  of  volcanic 


66 


RELIGIOUS  FRAUDS. 


action  which  he  is  so  often  called  upon  to  witness, 
and  of  their  several  extinct  craters  there  exist  myths 
bearing  upon  the  population  of  the  world,  and  many 
others. 

The  northern  Indians  are  extremely  credulous,  and 
are  thus  easily  played  upon  by  the  scheming  shaman. 
It  is  said  that  many  of  this  gentry  believe  in  them- 
selves, which  is  easy  of  credence  when  it  is  remem- 
bered how  given  human  nature  is  to  come  to  an 
absolute  faith  in  its  own  fabrications,  while  others— 
undoubtedly  those  new  to  the  business — know  that 
they  are  young  frauds.  In  keeping  his  hold  upon 
less  enlightened  brethren,  the  shaman  performs 
many  feats  of  jugglery  in  which  he  is  very  shrewd 
and  accomplishes  many  truly  wonderful  miracles, 
such  as  burning  at  the  stake  to  appear  later  among 
his  good  people,  and  short  trips  to  the  moon  to 
replenish  the  forests  with  game  and  the  streams 
with  the  finny  tribes  in  times  of  scarcity. 

Outside  of  Sitka  and  other  mission  towns,  the  dead 
are  not  put  underground,  but  where  they  are  not 
cremated,  the  remains  are  raised  upon  poles  or 
swung  from  the  trees.  Some  tribes  of  the  Tinneh 
let  their  dead  remain  where  they  fall  to  be  devoured 
by  wild  beasts,  while  others  of  the  same  nation,  place 
the  bodies  in  a low  stone  enclosure  where  they  come 
to  the  same  end.  With  the  tribes  who  burn  their 
dead,  savage  cruelty  outdoes  itself.  When  the  man 
dies  his  wives  must  gather  about  his  pyre  to  attest 
their  devotion  to  the  deceased.  They  must  keep 
alive  the  fire,  meanwhile  casting  themselves  upon 
the  body,  uttering  cries  and  lamentations,  which  I 
imagine  to  be  sincere,  and  they  then  come  out  of  the 
ordeal  more  dead  than  alive.  The  shaman  is  pre- 


I 


From  photograph  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


INDIAN  BELIEFS. 


6 7 


served  upon  his  death  in  a wooden  sarcophagus,  and 
the  body  of  a slave  is  thrown  into  the  water  anywhere. 
A custom  which  I believe  to  be  nearly  obsolete  was 
the  murder  of  a slave  upon  the  master’s  grave  that 
he  might  make  his  entree  into  the  unknown  state 
worthily  attended. 

The  Indian’s  conception  of  the  hereafter,  where 
any  belief  or  thought  is  harbored,  is  based  upon  his 
surroundings  in  this  sphere,  and  whose,  indeed,  is  not? 
To  a greater  or  less  degree  the  peoples  of  the  world 
conceive  of  their  surroundings  in  the  world  to  come 
in  the  light  of  greatly  exaggerated  grandeurs  of  the 
things  of  this  world  as  the}?-  know  them,  and  accord- 
ing to  their  various  natures  judge  the  happiness  of 
their  future  existence.  So  the  Indian  builds  in  his 
imagination,  a mighty  forest  stored  with  an  end- 
less supply  of  game,  in  the  pursuit  of  which  is 
attained  the  height  of  savage  happiness,  and  being 
a lazy  mortal,  he  looks  forward  to  a time  of  perfect 
rest  and  plenty  of  servants,  if  his  relations  are 
thoughtful  enough  to  forward  them,  in  the  cycle  of 
immortality. 

Some  of  the  tribes  of  Alaska  believe  in  the  future 
punishment  of  the  wicked  and  imagine  two  paths 
leading  to  eternity,  both  watery,  but  over  one  of 
which  the  brave’s  canoe  glides  on  a smooth  flowing 
current,  while  through  the  other  passage  the  journey 
is  made  in  darkness  amongst  rocks,  whirlpools  and 
perils  indescribable.  Where  this  latter  route  ends 
I do  not  know.  What  constitutes  wickedness  among 
a people  who  have  no  moral  laws  and  no  deity  to 
whom  to  render  an  account  or  to  limit  their  desires, 
absolutely  no  ruling  or  guiding  power,  I fail  to 
conceive. 


68 


CAVE  BURIAL. 


A mode  of  burial  quite  peculiar  to  now  exist- 
ing forms  seems  to  have  been,  in  the  times  of  its 
practice,  at  an  almost  pre-liistorie  date,  confined  ex- 
clusively to  the  people  of  the  Aleutian  chain.  The 
practice  went  into  disuse  with  the  arrival  of  the  Rus- 
sians, from  which  we  deduct  that  this  was  one  of  the 
many  habits  revolutionized  in  these  islands  by  the 
Russian  advent. 

The  custom  of  embalming  and  cave  burial  was 
obsolete  beyond  the  recollection  of  the  oldest  inhabit- 
ant, and  it  is  upon  the  evidences  of  the  caves  and 
their  relics — the  sole  existing  records  of  those  ages — 
that  history  and  science  have  to  rely  for  the  unravel- 
ing of  the  mysteries.  Numerous  legends  attach  to 
these  caves  and  the  once  mortal  remains  therein  con- 
tained, but  they  mostly  partake  of  the  wierd,  and  are 
little  to  be  depended  upon.  The  deductions  that  have 
been  arrived  at  as  to  methods  and  customs  are  as 
follows: 

Wrapped  in  their  best  clothes  and  mats,  and  with- 
out weapons  or  other  goods,  contrary  to  the  usual 
custom,  the  poor  were  placed  in  a sheltered  place 
and,  sometimes,  heaped  with  stones  and  driftwood. 
In  all  cases  a mask  without  eyes  was  placed  over  the 
face,  that  the  dead  might  not  look  upon  the  spirits 
he  was  to  meet  in  the  mystic  spheres. 

The  remains  of  wealthy  or  distinguished  person- 
ages were  treated  with  more  ceremony.  The  bodies 
were  carefully  prepared  and  placed  in  running  water 
for  some  time  to  remove  the  fatty  matter.  The 
knees  were  drawn  close  to  the  chest,  and  the  bones 
of  the  limbs  ofttimes  fractured  that  they  might  be 
gotten  into  a more  compact  form.  The  remains  were 
carefully  dried,  wrapped  in  furs  and  bound  with  seal 


LEGEND  OF  KAGAMIL. 


69 


skin,  that  the  whole  might  be  water  tight,  and  this 
ponderous  bundle  was  suspended  in  a cave  or  some 
rocky  shelter. 

Numerous  burial  caves  have  been  discovered  or 
reported,  and  many  explored  and  rifled.  In  1874, 
the  Alaska  Commercial  Company  explored  the 
largest  known  of  these  caves,  and  bringing  away  the 
contents  donated  the  relics  to  the  Smithsonian  Insti- 
tute and  to  the  California  Academy  of  Sciences. 
The  picture  herewith  presented  is  from  a photograph 
of  a mummy  in  the  Company’s  museum.  The  cave 
thus  explored  is  situated  in  the  Island  of  Kagamil, 
one  of  the  group  known  as  the  Islands  of  the  Four 
Craters.  Besides  the  incased  remains  of  eight  adults 
and  three  infants,  there  were  found  in  this  cave  num- 
erous weapons,  implements  and  utensils  of  all  sorts, 
beads  and  furs  and  the  remains  of  canoes. 

By  Prof.  Dali’s  computation,  the  age  of  these 
relics  would  now  be  one  hundred  and  thirt}^-four 
years.  Writing  in  1876,  he  says: 

“ I was  informed  in  1871,  by  several  of  the  more  in- 
telligent natives,  that  they  fixed  the  date  of  the  earli- 
est interment  in  the  following  manner:  It  occurred 

in  the  autumn  or  winter.  During  the  following 
spring  the  first  Russians  that  were  ever  seen  by  the 
natives  of  the  Four  Craters,  arrived  in  the  vicinit}\ 
These  may  have  been  TrapesnikofFs  party,  which 
left  Kamchatka  in  1758,  but  did  not  reach  Umnak 
until  1760;  or  they  may  have  been  that  of  the  infam- 
ous Pushkareff;  or  possibly  of  Maxim  Lazeroff;  but, 
in  any  case,  they  can  hardly  have  been  the  expedi- 
tion of  Behring.  In  1757  Ivan  Nikiferoff  sailed  as 
far  east  as  Umnak,  being  the  first  Russian  to  do  so, 
except  those  of  Behring’s  expedition,  who  did  not 


70 


LEGEND  OF  KAGAMIL. 


land  on  any  of  the  Andreanoff  group,  though  in  1741 
they  saw  the  shores  of  numerous  indeterminate 
islands  from  a distance.  The  earliest  date  therefore, 
which  we  can  assign  to  these  remains  would  be  1756, 
making  the  oldest  of  them  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  years  old.” 

Among  the  numerous  traditions  of  the  burial 
places  is  the  following 

LEGEND  OF  KAGAMIL. 

On  the  island  of  Kagamil  lived  a distinguished 
toy  on,  Kat-haya-Koochak  by  name.  He  was  a very 
small  man  but,  being  very  strong  and  active,  he  was 
much  respected  and  even  feared  by  the  natives  of  the 
adjacent  region.  Between  the  people  of  a neighbor- 
ing island  and  Kat-haya-Koochak’s  clan,  had  existed 
a long-standing  feud.  But  a bold  young  warrior, 
called  Yakaga,  had  just  risen  to  the  chieftainship  of 
these  unfriendly  islanders,  and  by  the  marriage  of 
Yakaga  with  Kat-haya-Koochak’s  only  daughter,  the 
enmity  between  these  people  was  laid  aside. 

Now  the  pride  of  old  Kat-haya-Koochak  was  his 
son  Zampa,  a youth  just  coming  into  manhood,  in 
whom  the  old  chief  saw  promises  of  an  able  successor 
to  himself.  He  built  for  his  son  a fine  bidarka,  and 
when  it  had  been  decked  out  as  befitted  the  son  of  a 
mighty  chief,  the  boy  gained  his  father’s  permission 
to  try  the  boat  upon  the  open  sea.  After  having 
enjoined  him  not  to  venture  too  far  from  shore,  the 
father,  from  a pinnacle  of  rock,  watched  with  admir- 
ation the  bold  young  seaman  as  he  set  out  in  pursuit 
of  a diving  bird,  shooting  at  it  with  his  arrow's.  But 
soon  the  father  became  alarmed.  Zampa  did  not 
hear  his  father  shout  to  him  to  return,  but,  intent 


LEGEND  OF  KAGAMIL. 


71 


on  getting  the  duck,  which  dove  under  to  rise  again 
at  some  distance,  the  boy  got  further  and  further 
from  the  shore.  Finally  he  discovered  that,  in  the 
dusk,  he  could  not  distinguish  the  land  from  which 
he  came.  He  made  for  the  nearest  shore  and  soon 
found  himself  in  his  brother-in-law’s  village.  Ya- 
kaga  was  away,  having  gone  to  visit  his  wife,  for 
according  to  the  Aleut  custom,  the  husband  did  not 
take  his  wife  to  his  own  island,  but  went  often  to 
visit  her,  but  the  boy  was  recognized  as  Yakaga’s 
brother-in-law  and  made  welcome  by  the  hospitable 
islanders.  After  feasting  and  merry-making,  and 
when  the  whole  village  was  about  to  retire,  in  accord- 
ance with  the  Aleutian  custom  of  hospitality,  Zampa 
was  given  the  companionship  of  Kitt-a-youx,  the 
daughter  of  Yakaga’s  first  chief,  and  without  a doubt 
the  belle  of  the  village. 

Next  day  Zampa  showed  no  inclination  to  return 
home,  nor  yet  the  next,  and  it  was  rumored  that  he 
was  enamored  of  the  great  chiefs  daughter.  Such 
was  the  fact,  for  on  the  third  day  he  made  an  offer 
for  Kitt-a-youx’  hand,  and  when  his  suit  was  rejected 
by  the  chief,  Zampa  left  the  barrabora  in  a towering 
rage.  Now  Kitt-a-youx  favored  this  bold  youth  and 
they  laid  plans  to  steal  away  that  night  and  seek  the 
protection  of  Zampa’ s father,  the  mighty  Kat-haya- 
Koochak.  A dark  November  night  came  on  and  all 
went  well.  With  Kitt-a-youx  in  his  canoe,  Zampa 
pulled  a strong  stroke  for  home.  Suddenly  he  heard 
some  one  coming  after  him.  Though  he  redoubled 
his  exertions,  his  pursuer  gained  on  him,  and  soon 
began  to  throw  arrows  at  him.  Kitt-a-youx  urged 
him  to  his  utmost,  and  he  was  straining  every  nerve 
when  an  arrow  struck  his  paddle  and  he,  losing  his 


7 2 


LEGEND  OF  KAGAMIL- 


balance,  the  canoe  was  overturned.  Zampa’s  pur- 
suer came  up  and  taking  the  half  dead  girl  into  his 
boat,  tried  to  right  Zampa’s  canoe,  but  was  unsuc- 
cessful and  the  boy  was  drowned.  When  the  man 
dragged  the  body  to  the  surface,  he  uttered  a pierc- 
ing shriek.  He  was  no  other  than  Yakaga,  who, 
returning  from  his  visit  to  his  wife,  had  left  his 
father-in-law  in  a state  of  fear  for  the  safety  of  his 
son,  and  having  seen  a bidarka  with  a woman  in  the 
stern  heading  from  his  island,  had  started  on  the 
pursuit,  which  ended  in  the  drowning  of  his  brother- 
in-law.  Yakaga  wept  over  the  boy,  but  fearing  the 
anger  of  his  father  did  not  dare  return  with  the  body 
to  the  village,  so  he  towed  it  with  the  overturned 
canoe  to  the  shore  and,  leaving  it  in  the  kelp, 
returned  with  Kitt-a-yonx  to  his  own  island. 

Next  daj7  the  body  was  found  and  wild  was  the 
lamentation  of  Kat-haya-Koochak  for  his  son.  He 
called  together  his  clan  that  they  might  mourn  after 
the  manner  of  the  Aleuts,  and  that  they  might  bury 
his  son  with  honor.  Swift  was  the  vengeance  of  the 
spirits  visited  upon  him  who  caused  Zampa’s  death, 
as  we  shall  see.  At  the  proper  time  and  with  much 
lamentation  and  song  the  body  was  borne  to  the 
burial  place.  Among  the  mourners  was  Zampa’s 
sister,  Yakaga’ s wife,  and  she  was  with  child. 
Across  the  path  of  the  procession  lay  a stone  which 
all  had  to  pass.  The  ground  was  slippery  with 
melting  snow  and  in  carelessly  stepping  on  the 
stone,  the  sister  slipped  and  was  thrown  on  her 
back,  being  prematurely  delivered  and  dying  soon 
after.  Kat-haya-Koochak  was  distracted.  He  had 
come  to  biiry  one,  and  instead  had  three  to  bury. 
The  procession  returned  to  his  barrabora  and  he  gave 


LEGEND  OF  KAGAMIL. 


73 


orders  for  the  funeral  of  his  daughter  and  grandson, 
but  was  perplexed  as  to  where  to  dispose  of  them. 
Then  he  bethought  him  of  the  cave  near  the  village, 
in  which  he  stored  his  furs  and  other  goods  and  gave 
orders  that  this  should  be  converted  into  a mauso- 
leum for  the  whole  family,  and  there  he  had  his  dead 
placed,  and  with  them  he  placed  the  little  canoe, 
the  paddles,  arrows  and  many  valuables.  Then  he 
gave  orders  that  he  should  be  placed  there  himself, 
and  soon  after  the  chief  died  of  grief  for  his  children 
and  was  placed  in  this  cave  as  he  had  desired,  with 
all  his  wealth,  household  goods  and  weapons.  And 
this  was  the  end  of  the  distinguished  chief  Kat-liajm- 
Koochak  and  his  family,  and  the  orgin  of  the  great 
burial  cave  of  Kagamil. 

But  our  story  is  not  done.  Kitt-a-youx  lived  to 
mourn  her  betrothed.  Cast  off  by  her  father  and  sold 
to  a neighboring  toyon,  looked  upon  with  little  pity 
by  her  people,  her  life  was  miserable  and  all  but 
slavery.  But  her  husband  seldom  came  near  her, 
and  for  this  she  was  thankful.  Soon  Zampa’s  child 
was  born,  and  the  young  mother  was  comforted. 
Still  her  outward  persecution  was  continued,  or 
rather  was  increased,  making  life  unbearable  for  the 
young  girl.  She  saw  but  misery  in  life  for  herself 
and  child,  a girl,  and  took  a resolve  so  common  with 
the  women  of  her  time  and  condition;  she  would  end 
the  existence  so  miserable  for  her  and  her  little  one, 
and  leave  the  rest  to  the  Great  Unknown  Spirit. 
Stealing  away  in  a canoe  one  night  she  headed  for 
Kagamil.  Putting  forth  her  best  exertion  to  be 
away  from  her  own  island,  and  chanting  to  the  stars 
as  she  paddled,  her  canoe  dragged  in  the  sea-weed 
ere  she  realized  how  far  she  had  journeyed.  She  rose 


74 


legend  of  kagamil. 


and  looked  about  her.  The  morning  was  breaking 
and  she  knew  where  she  was.  With  a relieved  sigh 
she  stooped,  took  up  the  sleeping  child  and  bound  it 
with  her  blanket  to  her  breast.  Then  with  one 
glance  about  her  and  calling  to  her  Zampa,  she 
sprang  into  the  chilly  water.  The  kelp  gathered 
about  her  and  she  rose  no  more,  while  the  canoe, 
released  of  its  burden,  drifted  out  to  sea.  Some  days 
later  the  remains  of  mother  and  child  were  found 
washed  up  on  the  beach  near  where  they  picked  up 
poor  Zampa.  The  story  of  the  ill-fated  runaway  had 
reached  the  Kagamil  Islanders  soon  after  the  old 
chief’s  death,  though  no  suspicion  was  attached  to 
Yakaga.  Therefore,  when  poor  Kitt-a-youx’  body 
was  found  it  was  tenderly  cared  for  by  the  people, 
and  with  much  ceremony  placed  in  the  mausoleum 
which  the  distinguished  toyon,  Kat-haya-Koochak 
had  consecrated,  and  at  last  poor  Katt-a-youx  rested 
with  her  Zampa  and  her  child. 

And  since  these  happenings  has  the  island  of 
Kagamil  been  deserted  by  the  living. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


TOTEMS  AND  SHAMANS. 


The  Totem  Pole;  Its  Emblematic  Significance 
and  Use. — Grotesque  Carvings  and  Barbaric 

Conceptions. Wonderful  Canoes. Graves 

and  Burial  Customs. — Primitive  Religions. — 
Witchcraft  Among  Other  Peoples  and  in 
Early  History. — The  Potlach. — Offering  of 
the  Conscience-Stricken  Indians. — A System 
not  Found  Among  More  Enlightened  People. 


HE  Indians  of  Alaska  are,  as  I 
have  said,  divided  into  five 
principal  nations,  which  are 
segregated  into  tribes.  These, 
in  turn,  are  subdivided  into 
families,  each  having  a dis- 
tinctive name,  and  each  mem- 
ber being  provided  with  a 
Totem.  This  Totem  is  a dis- 
tinguishing badge  representing  the  family,  or,  rather 
the  caste,  of  its  owner.  These  emblems  consist  of 
some  representative  of  animal  nature,  such  as  a fish, 
a bird  or  a mammal,  and  are  marked  on  the  houses, 
the  canoes  and  clothing,  and  are  sometimes  worn  as 
personal  ornaments.  These  totems  give  to  the 
Indians  a rather  peculiar  connection  and  carry  some 
strange  inhibitions.  Members  of  the  same  tribe  or 
tribal  family  may  intermarry,  but  not  members  of 
the  same  badge.  A bear  may  marry  into  the  salmon 


76 


CASTE  BADGES. 


badge,  but  a bear  may  not  marry  a bear,  a wolf  a 
wolf,  nor  a crow  a crow.  Though  the  totem  may 
appear  merely  an  evidence  of  barbaric  superstition, 
there  nevertheless  seems  to  be  some  method  in  the 
workings  of  the  system.  The  prevention  of  inter- 
marriage which  it  imposes  necessarily  keeps  down 
clannishness  and  consequently  averts  tribal  and 
family  wars.  The  Indians  of  some  parts  of  Oregon, 
Washington  and  British  Columbia  follow  a method 
somewhat  similar  to  the  totem,  each  being  provided 
with  some  emblem  significant  of  caste  in  his  tribe. 
It  also  serves  as  a sort  of  lucky  charm,  just  as  the 
negroes  of  the  south  carry  amulets  as  a protection 
against  evil  spirits  or  to  secure  good  fortune.  While 
the  Alaskan  aborigines  attach  some  significance  of 
this  nature  to  the  totem,  its  chief  use  seems  to  be  as 
a kind  of  genealogical  record.  At  their  burial  places 
and  in  the  front  of  the  leading  houses  in  each  village 
are  erected  tall  totem  poles,  on  which  are  carved 
representations  of  birds,  beasts  and  fishes.  These 
constitute  the  “Family  Bible”  of  the  particular  fam- 
ily. Strange  to  say,  for  a barbaric  people,  to  whom 
money  is  but  a comparatively  recent  revelation,  these 
totem  poles  are  sometimes  very  expensive,  often 
reaching  a cost  as  high  as  two  thousand  dollars,  or 
an  equivalent  in  blankets  and  furs.  They  will  range 
from  two  to  five  feet  in  diameter  and  to  one  hun- 
dred feet  in  height.  Small  totemic  carvings,  in  all 
sorts  of  grotesque  forms,  are  made  by  the  Indians 
and  sold  to  travelers  in  the  towns  and  at  the  various 
trading  posts.  Some  of  them  are  very  unique  and 
display  considerable  handicraft  in  a rude,  artistic 
way,  and  some  of  the  more  elaborate  command  high 
prices  from  visiting  whites.  Human  nature  is 


BEAR  TOTEMS  AT  FORT  WRANGELL, 
From  photograph  43a,  by  Winter  Photo  Co.,  Eugene,  Ore. 


INDIAN  CARVINGS. 


77 


human  nature  the  world  over,  from  the  native  sav- 
age to  the  king  upon  his  throne,  and  these  untutored 
sons  of  Nature  will  barter  that  which,  to  them,  is 
sacred  for  the  glittering  coin  that  rules  the  world 
from  “Greenland’s  icy  mountains  to  India’s  coral 
strand.”  The  making  and  erection  of  totem  poles  is 
not  frequent  since  the  whites  have  increased  in  the 
country,  as  the  enterprising  white  man  has  in  many 
instances  managed  to  secure  them  for  museum  pur- 
poses in  the  “ States”  or  in  Europe,  but  those  that 
are  still  standing  are  religiously  guarded  and  care- 
fully preserved.  Totems  are  also  often  carved  on 
the  walls  of  the  houses.  The  natives  of  Alaska  seem 
to  be  possessed  of  a passion  for  carving.  They 
whittle  and  gouge  figures  and  canoes  out  of  every 
material  the  country  affords  that  will  take  a tool. 
Bone,  wood,  horn  and  ivory  of  animals,  fish-bone  and 
sinew  and  even  skins  of  animals,  are  formed  into 
crude  figures  of  everything  in  and  out  of  nature 
such  as  they  can  see  in  their  country,  or  that  comes 
within  the  scope  of  Indian  imagination,  from  a 
grasshopper  to  a bear,  from  a minnow  to  a whale, 
a sea-gull  to  an  eagle,  or  a swaddled  infant  to 
an  exaggerated  idol,  that  would  scare  into  devoted- 
ness the  most  hardened  sinner  on  running  across  it 
unawares. 

Remarkable,  in  connection  with  their  carving,  is 
the  construction  of  the  Indian’s  canoe.  It  is  called 
a “dug-out,”  being  hewn  and  shaped  from  a single 
log  or  trunk  of  a tree.  After  the  canoe  is  excavated 
and  outwardly  formed,  the  shell  is  made  pliable  by 
steam,  which  is  generated  by  filling  the  excavation 
with  water  and  then  throwing  into  the  water  red 
hot  stones.  Having  produced  pliability,  and  the 


78 


CANOE  BUILDING. 


shell  having  been  shaped  to  the  lines  required  by  the 
savage  naval  architect,  it  is  left  to  season  for  a time. 
All  canoes  are  built  upon  the  same  model,  in  grace- 
ful, clipper  lines,  a carved  stern  and  sharp  prow 
which  projects  gracefully  out  over  the  water,  the 
latter  usually  surmounted  with  the  family  badge — 
withall  wonderful  and  beautiful  specimens  of  savage 
naval  architecture.  A common  canoe  is  fifty  feet 
long,  and  one  much  longer  is  not  a rarity,  accommo- 
dating from  ten  to  twenty  paddles  a side.  A Haidah 
canoe  exhibited  at  the  Centennial  was  eighty  feet 
long  and  five  feet  deep,  constructed  without  a joint, 
and  propelled,  when  sculled  by  her  full  complement, 
by  forty  paddles  a side. 

The  almost  invariable  custom  of  the  Indians  in 
putting  away  their  dead  is  to  make  the  tomb  close  to 
a river  bank.  Among  some  the  body  is  bent  so  that 
the  knees  will  touch  the  breast,  and  is  put  in  a rough 
box  of  hewn  boards  which  may  be  covered  with  gaudy 
paintings  or  carvings  in  totemic  designs,  or  may  be 
left  plain.  This  box  is  placed  upon  four  supports, 
of  a height  var3/ing  with  different  people,  which  will 
then  be  enclosed  with  a rough  fence,  or  over  which 
will  be  built  a substantial  hut.  Over  these  tombs  is 
planted  a pole  from  which  streams  a rag,  and  near 
by  is  another  pole,  of  about  twenty-five  feet  in  height, 
to  which  is  attached  a totem,  carved  in  the  shape  of 
some  animal-object,  representative  of  that  particular 
family  or  sub-clan  to  which  the  deceased  belonged. 
The  fence  posts  and  grave  coverings  are  also  adorned 
with  these  grotesque  emblems.  Some  of  the  Chris- 
tianized Indians  build  crude  houses  over  the  graves 
and  surmount  them  with  the  Greek  cross;  others 
more  civilized,  enclose  the  graves  in  neat  picket  or 


SHAMANISM.  79 

latticed  fences,  but  in  each  and  every  case  the  totem 
is  present. 

If  the  aborigines  of  Alaska  have  any  religion 
at  all  it  can  only  be  defined  under  the  name  of 
“Shamanism,”  and  as  a matter  of  fact,  Shamanism 
can  scarcely  be  properly  defined  as  a religion.  Of 
course  I do  not  in  this  connection  refer  to  the  Indians 
who  have  been  converted  to  Christianity  by  mission- 
ary and  other  white  influences.  A few  of  these  are 
devotees  in  Christianity;  many  have  a sort  of  remote 
idea  of  what  a living  Deity  means,  and  others  are 
Christians  only  because  they  have  been  baptized  by 
a Russian  priest.  All,  however,  have  either  a ling- 
ering or  a positive  belief  in  Shamanism.  This  term 
is  not  in  itself  Alaskan.  It  represents  a sort  of 
Fetchism  common  in  western  Asia,  in  India,  Siberia 
and  Alaska.  The  Shamanist  is  a believer  in  witch- 
craft, and  the  shaman,  the  high  priest  of  witchcraft, 
is  a witch,  who  is  supposed  to  be  in  communication 
with  unseen  powers,  which  enables  him  either  by 
intercession  or  denunciation  to  settle  the  fate  of  a 
friend  or  a foe,  to  regulate  his  or  her  success  or  fail- 
ure in  all  undertakings,  and  to  heal  the  sick  or 
cause  death  by  certain  incantations. 

By  various  modes  the  shaman  is  selected  to  fulfill 
his  office,  but  in  no  case  is  he  an  ordinary  personage. 
With  some  tribes  a child  with  any  abnormity,  from 
a cast  in  the  eye  to  a humpback,  is  consecrated  to 
the  office.  Among  others,  a young  man  has  a dream 
which  he  thinks,  or  makes  his  people  think,  has 
come  to  pass,  and  enters  upon  a long  fast  from  which 
he  emerges  a full-fledged  shaman.  The  Thlinkets  once 
had  a much  longer  and  more  laborious  rite  of  install- 
ing a shaman,  but  with  them  Shamanism  is  almost  of 


8o 


POWER  OF  SHAMANS. 


the  past.  From  what  I could  learn  from  questioning- 
numerous  natives,  this  Shamanism  is  a sort  of  spir- 
itualistic belief,  with  the  shaman  as  the  medium. 
Those  who  are  the  strictest  adherents  to  the  super- 
stition are  very  reticent  in  giving  information  to  the 
whites  as  to  the  origin,  rites  and  mysteries  of  the 
belief,  if  belief  it  can  be  called,  while  many  of  the 
younger  element,  having  partly  drawn  away  from  it, 
ridicule  and  defy  the  shamans,  and  are  ignorant  of 
the  history  and  rites  of  Shamanism.  The  shaman 
rules  with  an  iron  hand  and  exacts  the  most  exhor- 
bitant  tribute  from  his  devotees,  who  are  comprised 
mostly  of  the  aged,  sick  and  unfortunate  In  many 
senses  the  shaman  occupies  a similar  position  toward 
his  adherents  as  that  of  the  “medicine-man”  of  the 
wild  Indian  tribes  of  other  portions  of  the  American 
continent.  His  methods  of  healing  are,  like  the 
medicine-man’s,  by  incantation;  he  has  a rough 
knowledge  of  a few  medicinal  herbs  and  roots;  he 
contorts  himself  into  a sort  of  epilepsy  when  invok- 
ing the  spirits  and  works  upon  the  superstitious 
fears  of  his  people.  The  medicine-man,  unlike  the 
shaman,  however,  exacts  no  fee.  If  he  cure  the 
patient,  he  is  “heap  big  medicine”;  if  the  patient 
die,  the  doctor  is  often  stoned  to  death;  then  some 
other  unfortunate  is  selected  to  take  his  place.  Gen- 
eralty  some  very  old  man  is  selected  as  the  medi- 
cine-man, some  poor  wretch  broken  down  by  age  and 
disease;  and  I have  been  answered  by  the  Indians, 
when  I asked  why  they  selected  their  old  and 
decrepit  men  for  their  medicine-men,  that  it  was 
becaiise  they  were  too  old  to  be  good  for  anything 
else,  and  that,  as  they  were  a burden  on  the  tribe,  if 
they  did  not  soon  die  in  natural  course,  the  time  was 


INDIAN  GRAVES  AT  FORT  WRANGELL.  THE  WOLF  AND  WHALE 
From  photograph  No.  7876,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


DIVERGENCE  IN  CODES. 


81 


not  long  off  when  they  would  incur  the  usual  pen- 
alty by  losing  a patient. 

In  Alaska  Shamanism,  all  birds,  beasts  and  fishes 
are  supposed  to  be  inhabited  by  either  good  or  evil 
spirits,  with  whom  only  the  shaman  is  on  speaking 
terms,  and  all  elemental  disturbances  are  supposed 
to  be  manifestations  of  the  good  will  or  wrath  of  the 
spirits,  only  to  be  interpreted  by  the  shaman,  for  a 
fee.  Each  tribe  and  family  has  its  own  peculiar  set 
of  spiritual  legends  and  its  own  set  of  bugaboos,  of 
whom  the  shaman  is  the  embassador.  Where  the 
shaman  has  devout  followers,  he  is  the  most  over- 
bearing and  exacting,  frequently,  by  threats  of 
spiritualistic  vengeance,  demanding  and  receiving 
everything  of  value  possessed  by  his  devotee.  Many 
of  the  natives  who  hover  about  the  trading  posts  have 
acquired  a sort  of  notion  as  to  what  Christianity 
means,  but  have  not  abandoned  their  fetishistic 
ideas,  nor  have  they  gained  much  in  morality,  by  the 
teachings  inculcated  through  contact  with  the  whites. 
Shamanism  is  confined  more  particularly  to  the 
Indians,  who  look  upon  the  Innuits,  Eskimo  and 
Aleuts  as  sorcerers,  and  yet  these  latter  tribes  also 
believe  in  sorcery  and  witchcraft  and  have  their 
totems  and  shamans  the  same  as  the  Indians,  only 
in  different  forms,  while  the  principle  is  the  same. 
The  Indian  name  for  sorcerer  is  Uskeemi , and  the 
Innuit  name  for  Shaman  temples,  Kaguskcemi , and 
it  is  from  the  root  of  these  words  that  Eskimo  comes. 
Among  the  Innuits,  the  totem  system  differs  from 
the  other  systems  in  Alaska.  A boy  when  arrived 
at  puberty  selects  some  living  object  as  his  patron, 
and  the  spirit  which  inhabits  that  particular  bird, 
fish  or  beast  is  his  guardian  through  life.  If  bad 


82 


PHILOLOGY  OF  SHAMANISM. 


luck  pursues  him,  he  has  the  right  of  secession  from 
his  guardian  and  can  choose  another,  and  if  he  feels 
like  it  can  eat  his  former  patron;  that  is,  if  his  totem 
is  a duck,  he  may  eat  duck.  This  is  not  permissi- 
ble in  the  totemic  code  of  other  tribes.  Deer,  seal, 
salmon  and  badger  are  regarded  by  all  with  special 
veneration,  as  they  form  the  food  supply,  but  while 
these  animals  are  worshipped,  it  is  not  forbidden  to 
eat  them. 

The  philology  of  the  word  “Shaman”  is  some- 
thing difficult  to  trace,  but  its  intent  and  the  word 
itself,  runs  through  a certain  theology  in  both  civil- 
ized and  barbaric  literature  for  ages.  Persia  had  its 
shamans  and  its  believers  in  Shamanism,  and  even 
the  Parsees  with  their  beautiful  and,  in  its  day, 
enlightened  theology,  were  largely  shamanistic. 
Shamanism  simply  means  witchcraft,  and  from  the 
day  when  Shaman  Satan  tempted  Eve  in  the  Garden 
up  to  the  highest  civilization  of  to-day,  there  have 
been,  and  still  are,  shamans  and  Shamanites.  The 
newspapers  of  every  large  city  contain  advertise- 
ments by  fortune-tellers — otherwise  witches — and 
many  an  intelligent,  refined  and  educated  man  or 
woman  consults  these  oracles,  though  they  would 
hardly  acknowledge  their  superstition  to  themselves. 
The  Roman  Empire,  at  the  very  height  of  its  civili- 
zation and  culture,  had  its  Augurs,  who  were  merely 
shamans.  Joseph,  who  engineered  a grain  deal  when 
in  captivity  in  Egypt,  and  dreamed  of  the  seven  lean 
kine  and  the  seven  fat  kine,  was  a shaman;  and 
King  David  was  a Shamanite.  Moses,  when  he  led 
the  children  of  Israel  out  of  captivity  and  into  the 
wilderness,  was  a shaman  when  he  smote  the  rock 
and  drew  forth  water;  Aaron  was  a shaman  when, 


SHAMANITES. 


83 


while  Moses  was  prospecting  the  summit  of  Mt. 
Sinai,  he  induced  the  ladies  of  the  excursion  to 
make  a potlach  of  their  jewelry  to  form  a golden  calf 
for  all  to  worship.  It  is  not  necessary  to  multiply 
instances  of  a belief  in  witchcraft  and  witches.  Even 
among  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  and  the  earliest  settlers 
of  New  England — rugged,  sturdy,  brainy,  and  wor- 
shippers of  the  Christian  God,  sincere,  honest  and 
pious — Shamanism  prevailed,  and  to-day  there  are 
millions  of  intelligent  people  who  sincerely  believe 
that  Christ  drove  the  devil  out  of  the  swine,  and 
accept  the  story  literally.  When  we  have  these 
numerous  examples  among  an  enlightened  people, 
dating  from  the  dawn  of  civilization  to  our  own  time; 
when  the  Bible  records  sacrifices  made  on  the  altar 
of  the  Diety,  and  which  are  even  carried  out  in  form 
if  not  in  effect,  to-day  by  various  sects  of  civilized 
religion,  who  shall  ridicule  the  Innuit,  the  Aleut, 
the  Eskimo,  the  native  races  of  all  climes  on  which 
civilization  has  not  shed  its  light,  for  being  Sham- 
anites?  The  very  forces  of  Nature  are  something  to 
inspire  awe,  not  only  in  the  untutored,  but  in  the 
tutored  mind;  and  the  foundation  for  this  is  the 
mystery  surrounding  those  forces,  especially  to  those 
whose  only  communication  with  Nature  is,  not  in 
book  knowledge,  science  or  philosophy,  but  in  the 
mountain  and  vale,  the  thunders  and  lightnings,  the 
sun,  moon,  stars,  sky,  flood,  storm,  glacier,  or  other 
natural  powers  of  phenomena. 

The  native  Alaskans  do  not  stand  alone  among 
the  native  races  of  the  American  continent  as  Sham- 
anites.  There  never  was  a tribe  or  sub-tribe  of 
Indians  on  this  continent  that  did  not  have  its 
shaman,  or  “medicine-man.”  To  a great  extent, 


84 


MEDICINE-MEN. 


the  word  medicine-man  is  a misnomer;  for,  in  many 
tribes  of  Indians  the  functionary  so-called  is  not 
looked  upon  as  a physian,  but  only  as  an  incantor. 
The  “Diggers”  of  California  at  certain  seasons  of 
the  year  go  down  on  all  fours  aud  eat  vegetation  as 
medicine,  and  the  only  function  of  the  “medicine- 
man ” in  case  of  the  sickness  of  a member  of  the 
tribe  is  to  frighten  off  evil  spirits  by  incantation. 
The  same  rule  applies  among  the  Piutes,  Shoshones, 
Washoes  and  Goshutes  of  Nevada,  and,  in  fact, 
among  all  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  entire  country 
from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific'  Ocean.  It 
is  civilization  that  has  made  the  real  medicine-man 
among  the  aborigines,  and  it  is  civilization  that  has 
put  upon  them  the  diseases  which  have  made  drugs 
and  doctors  necessary  to  them.  When  once  an 
Indian  begins  to  learn  that  a white  man  is  a doctor, 

; — “heap  big  medicine” — he  becomes  a hypochon- 
driac and  the  slighest  twinge  or  ache  is  to  him  a disease 
requiring  medical  treatment,  and  he  is  the  more 
ready  for  this  because  it  is  seldom  that  a reputable 
physician  charges  an  Indian  for  advice  or  treatment, 
and,  if  there  is  one  characteristic  in  an  Indian  that 
is  predominant,  it  is  the  laudable  desire  to  get  some- 
thing for  nothing,  from  a dose  of  cathartic  pills  to  a 
pair  of  worn-out  pantaloons.  A friend  of  the  author 
once  related  to  him  an  anecdote  about  an  Indian 
who,  having  some  slight  ailment,  applied  at  the 
camp  of  some  white  men  for  “heap  medicine.”  One 
of  the  party,  with  more  cruelty  than  brains,  gave 
him  a dose  of  a dozen  purgative  pills.  The  pills 
were  sugar-coated,  and,  as  all  Indians  like  sweets, 
the  victim  swallowed  them  with  avidity,  and  went 
to  his  wickiup.  The  man’s  companions  rebuked 


THE  POTLACH. 


85. 


him  for  his  miserable  practical  joke  and  predicted 
the  death  of  the  Indian.  But  he  turned  up  next 
day,  pale,  sad  and  attenuated  and  asked  for  another 
dose. 

In  this  connection  a reference  to  the  potlach  seems 
to  me  to  be  pertinent,  as  it  is  a custom  common  in 
various  forms  among  all  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  con- 
tinent, but  particularly  among  the  natives  of  the 
northwest  coast,  comprising  Oregon,  Washington, 
Alaska  and  British  Columbia  and  extending  as  far 
interior  as  Idaho  and  Montana,  and  among  all  the 
Coast  Indians,  the  same  word  is  used.  It  is  believed 
to  be  of  Chinook  origin.  “ Potlach,”  as  interpreted 
does  not  mean  a gift  in  the  ordinary  sense,  as  a 
Christmas  gift,  a birthday  gift,  a wedding  gift  or 
other  present  given  in  love,  friendship,  affection  or 
compliment,  as  among  civilized  people.  Among  the 
native  races  it  means  a total  surrender  of  all  hold- 
ings and  belongings  as  a sort  of  propitiary  gift  to 
appease  evil  spirits  through  the  medium  of  a shaman 
or  other  agent  of  witchery.  In  Oregon,  Washing- 
ton, British  Columbia  and  Alaska  a native  who  has 
acquired  a large  share  of  this  world’s  goods  becomes 
at  times  stricken  with  a sort  of  ecstasy,  when  he  feels 
it  incumbent  on  himself  to  organize  a sort  of  con- 
science fund  on  his  own  hook.  He  calls  his  neigh- 
bors together,  has  a big  feast  and  distributes  to  his 
guests  all  his  earthly  belongings.  In  some  instances, 
when  the  spasm  is  peculiarly  acute,  he  strips 
himself  of  the  last  stitch  of  wearing  apparel  and 
recovers  from  his  convulsion  with  the  consciousness 
of  a duty  well  performed.  This  potlach  is  only 
indulged  in  by  the  crude,  untutored  natives,  and  is 
not  “catching”  among  civilized  and  cultivated  peo- 


86 


the;  potlach. 


pie,  and  there  is  no  instance  on  record  of  any  of  the 
leading  capitalists  of  America  ever  having  held  a 
potlach,  though  the  records  of  the  Conscience  Fund 
at  Washington  do  show  that  many  Americans  have 
potlached  with  the  Government  according  to  the 
extent  of  their  misdoings,  some  with  and  some  with- 
out legal  interest. 


1 


■i 


CHAPTER  VII. 


i 

EDUCATION  IN  ALASKA. 


History  of  Early  Education  Under  the  Rus- 
sians.— The  Changes  After  the  Purchase  of 
Alaska.— Long  Neglect. -Present  Inadequacy 
of  the  System.- — Work  of  the  Agent  and 
Needs  of  the  Schools. — Duncan’s  Metla- 
katla  Mission;  Its  Prosperity  and  Thrift. — 
Persecution  by  Church  and  State. — Final 
Immigration  to  Alaska. — Work  of  the  Sec- 
tarian Missions. 


AT  education  is  the  funda- 
mental principle  of  republican- 
ism, and  the  main  stay  of  our 
American  Institutions,  is  an 
undisputed  fact.  If  education 
is  a necessity,  in  the  midst  of 
our  civilization  whose  princi- 
ples are  by  nature  inculcated 
in  more  enlightened  minds— 
the  inheritance  of  generations — what  must  be  the 
needs  of  our  aboriginal  surroundings — darkened  by 
ages  of  superstition — to  raise  them  to  that  much 
mooted  height  of  civilization. 

When  Russian  America  became  United  States 
territory,  to  the  question  as  to  what  would  become  of 
the  schools,  General  Lovell  H.  Rousseau,  U.  S. 
Commissioner  in  the  transfer,  is  said  to  have  re- 
plied: “America  is  far  ahead  of  Russia  in  that 


88 


EARLY  SCHOOLS. 


respect,  and  that  ample  provision  would  be  made  for 
them.”  He  was  right  in  part,  while  his  promise  has 
been  fulfilled  but  in  a measure. 

A glimpse  at  the  past  and  present  of  the  schools  of 
Alaska  will  suffice.  As  early  as  1775  Governor 
Schlikoff  established  a school  at  the  capital  of  Rus- 
sian America,  then  situated  on  Kadiak  Island.  This 
school,  in  1803,  had  thirty  pupils  studying  arithmetic, 
navigation  and  four  mechanical  trades.  In  1805  Count 
Nikolai  Resanoff  at  the  same  place  organized  a 
school  which  he  called  the  “House  of  Benevolence 
of  the  Empress  Maria.”  The  Greek  religion,  the 
Russian  language  and  arithmetic  only  were  taught 
here.  In  1803  a school  was  opened  in  Sitka  which 
experienced  many  vicissitudes  until  it  passed  into 
the  hands  of  a naval  officer  in  1820.  In  1833  this 
school  saw  another  change  for  the  better,  when  a 
creol,  Etolin  b}^  name,  chief  director  of  the  Fur 
Company  and  Governor  of  the  Colony,  took  it 
in  charge. 

A school  was  established  for  boys  and  girls  at 
Oonalaska  in  1825  which  maintained  its  efficienc}^  to 
the  date  of  the  transfer.  Another  school  was  opened 
here  for  children  of  the  employees  of  the  Fur  Com- 
pany. These  schools,  I believe,  or  a successor  to 
them,  with  all  their  traditions,  thrive  under  the  con- 
trol of  the  Greek  Church  to-day.  The  Russian 
language  and  the  Greek  religion  are  taught  and 
their  holidays  and  fetes  observed. 

Dr.  Sheldon  Jackson,  General  Agent  of  Education 
for  the  Territory,  in  the  report  of  his  visit  to  the 
Aleutian  Islands,  tells  us  that  he  met  at  Oonalaska: 
“American  citizens  who  have  never  heard  a prayer 
for  the  President  of  the  United  States,  nor  of  the 


SITKA,  FROM  BARANOF  CASTLE. 
From  photograph  13,  by  Winter  Photo  Co.,  Eugene,  Ore. 


UNDER  THE  RUSSIANS. 


89 


Fourth  of  July,  or  the  name  of  the  capital  of  the 
Nation,  but  have  been  taught  to  pray  for  the  Bmperor 
of  Russia,  to  celebrate  his  birthday  and  commemo- 
rate the  victories  of  Ancient  Greece.”  A severe 
commentary  that  requires  no  particular  emphasis. 

There  was  another  of  the  Fur  Company's  schools 
for  boys  situated  at  Sitka  at  this  time,  and  in  1831 
one  was  established  for  girls.  In  1841,  a theological 
seminary  was  established  in  Sitka. 

In  these  schools,  where  they  went  be}mnd  the 
Russian  language  and  the  Greek  religion,  they 
taught  reading,  writing  and  arithmetic  and  different 
industries  for  boys  and  girls,  and  it  is  noticeable 
that  they  often  sent  students  to  Russia  for  further 
advantages.  In  1859,  however,  we  find  the  schools 
at  Sitka  broadening  their  field  of  usefulness  and 
introducing  the  Slavonian  and  English  languages, 
history,  geography,  book-keeping,  geometry,  trigo- 
nometry, navigation  and  astronomy. 

At  the  time  Russian  America  changed  hands  there 
were  five  schools  supported  by  the  Russian  Govern- 
ment in  Sitka,  and  others  outside,  besides  many  con- 
ducted by  priests  and  under  the  control  of  the  Greek 
Church.  When  the  change  came,  the  Russian 
instructors  naturally  stepped  out.  Some  of  the 
ecclesiastics  still  continue  their  schools  and  some  of 
the  American  Missionary  Societies  have  made 
attempts. 

After  years  of  neglect,  in  March,  1885,  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Interior  made  over  the  care  of  the  educa- 
tion of  the  Alaskans  to  the  Bureau  of  Education  and 
an  agent  was  appointed,  who  immediately  set  to 
work.  Among  innumerable  disadvantages  under 
which  he  had  to  labor,  probably  the  greatest  were 


9° 


DELAYED  IMPROVEMENTS. 


tlie  delays  of  Congress  in  making  appropriations  for 
tliis  important  work,  and  when  the  bill  was  finally 
passed,  the  inadequacy  of  the  amount,  the  severity 
of  the  climate,  their  poor  quarters,  the  distance  from 
home  and  between  his  schools  and  having  to  teach  a 
new  language,  were  circumstances  that  helped  only 
to  impede  progress. 

There  were  two  schools  in  Sitka,  two,  I believe, 
at  Wrangell  and  one  each  at  Juneau,  Hoonah,  Kill- 
isnoo  and  Jackson  which  were  continued.  Then 
in  1885—86,  schools  were  established  at  Unga,  in 
the  Shumagin  Islands,  St.  Paul,  Kadiak,  Afognak 
Islands,  Klawack,  Prince  of  Wales  Island  and  Lor- 
ing,  the  latter  of  which  was  moved  to  Fort  Tongas. 
These  schools  were  but  poorly  provided  for,  especi- 
ally in  the  way  of  accommodations,  and  none  of  their 
wretched  quarters  were  owned  by  the  Government. 
This  is  the  situation  to-day. 

Dr.  Jackson,  Prof.  Kelly  and  the  corps  of  teachers 
whom  we  met,  cannot  be  too  highly  commended  for 
their  persistent  efforts  in  this  uphill  fight.  They 
can  exhibit  as  the  result  of  their  labors,  children, 
neat  in  appearance,  who  can  read  and  write,  and 
many  of  whom  are  acquainted  with  the  rudiments  of 
arithmetic.  In  the  schools  and  missions  many  of 
the  pupils  sing  and  perform  upon  some  musical 
instrument,  and  the  Metiakatlans  have  a well-trained 
band. 

Industrial  exercises  have  been  introduced  grad- 
ually into  the  schools  and  the  people,  coming  under 
the  influence  of  the  spirit  of  civilization,  are  one  by 
one  giving  up  their  old  mode  of  life,  and  Dr.  Jack- 
son  advocates  for  the  young  men  of  Alaska,  training 
in  cutting  and  rafting  logs,  the  running  of  saw-mills, 


MANUAL  TRAINING. 


91 


coopering,  furniture-making  and  all  sorts  of  wood- 
working. 

I have  treated  of  the  hyperborean  characters  and 
shown  many  points  wherein  they  differed  from  the 
Indians  of  the  lower  latitudes.  In  many  respects  I 
think  his  customs  and  tribal  relations  more  conducive 
to  advancement  and  the  man  more  apt  to  learn.  In 
this  I may  be  mistaken;  however  I am  not  prepared 
to  say  that  the  liberal  educational  advantages  sought 
for  him  will  not  apply  as  advantageously  to  the 
American  Indian. 

The  Government  owes  its  Indians  preparation  for 
an  intelligent  citizenship,  if  for  no  other  motive  than 
its  own  protection  and  its  glory.  And  surely  the 
properly  educated  Indian  will  be  as  valuable  an  addi- 
tion to  our  population  and  as  worthy  an  element  in 
our  cosmopolitan  nationality  as  the  hordes  that  pour 
into  Castle  Garden.  We  have  seen  how  little  the 
Alaskans  know  of  the  flag  under  which  they  now 
live,  and  writers  and  travelers  tell  of  the  little  respect 
paid  to  authority.  In  the  development  of  character — 
a prime  factor  in  education — the  high  principles  of 
patriotism  and  fidelity  to  duty  should  be  instilled  in 
the  young  mind. 

Fish  packing,  agriculture,  mining  and  the  devel- 
opment of  other  resources  of  the  country  will  devolve 
upon  these  young  men,  as  it  will  be  some  time  be- 
fore any  but  a shifting  population  will  inhabit  these 
regions.  It  is,  therefore,  plainly  essential  that  this 
wealthy  region  of  our  territory  should  not  be 
neglected. 

The  moral  training  of  the  people  is  necessary  to 
the  well  being  of  the  community,  and  must  follow  as 
a natural  consequence  of  enlightenment,  though  the 


92 


MORAL  TRAINING. 


ethics  of  morality  should  have  a prominent  place  in 
their  education.  We  have  seen  that  immorality  and 
witchcraft  are  still  practiced.  Under  these  hurtful 
influences  and  amidst  uncleanliness  are  the  young 
brought  up  to  lie  and  steal  without  thought  or  knowl- 
edge of  disgrace.  In  the  abolition  of  these  many  and 
serious  evils  and  replacing  them  with  ideas  of  the 
principles  of  Christianity,  respect  for  the  rights  of 
others,  personal  purity,  self-respect  and  independence 
the  school  finds  one  of  its  most  sacred  missions. 

Probably  the  success  of  the  sectarian  missions 
would  warrant  their  being  called  more  than  attempts. 
As  early  as  1793  the  missionaries  of  the  Greek 
Church  landed  on  Kadiak  Island,  where  they  erected 
a church  building  and  opened  schools.  To  the  sup- 
port of  these  missions  the  Russian  Fur  Company 
contributed  annually  $6,600.  In  1845  a Lutheran 
mission  was  established  at  Sitka.  It  was  ten  years 
after  the  Territory  was  handed  over  to  the  United 
States,  despite  urgent  appeals,  that  the  missionary 
societies  of  America  turned  their  attention  to  this 
field,  and  then  several  sects  sent  out  missionaries. 

The  “Girls  Home”  in  Sitka  has  proven  itself 
efficient  in  rescueing  girls  from  slavery,  and  the 
schools  at  Wrangell  and  elsewhere  have  done  good 
work  in  this  direction  and  in  the  spread  of  civilization. 

For  the  influence  that  they  have  had  and  will  have 
upon  the  missionary  and  ’ educational  work  in  this 
field,  brief  mention  of  the  labors  and  success  of 
William  Duncan  among  the  Tsimpsean  Indians — 
unprecedented  as  they  are  in  missionary  history — 
will  not  be  out  of  place  here. 

In  1857,  Duncan  arrived  at  Port  Simpson,  in 
British  Columbia,  having  given  up  a lucrative  posi- 


ANCIENT  GREEK  CHURCH,  SITKA, 

From  a photograph  (i 6)  by  Winters  Photo.  Co.,  Eugene,  Oregon. 


duncan’s  methods. 


93 


tion  in  England  to  volunteer  in  the  service  of  the 
English  Church  Missionary  Society.  Here  he  found 
the  natives  sunk  in  the  lowest  depths  to  which  canni- 
balism, the  darkest  rites  of  superstition  and  traders’ 
whisky  can  reduce  even  savagery  and  still  retain  the 
image  of  their  God. 

He  did  nothing  until  he  had  mastered  their  lan- 
guage— meanwhile  studying  their  nature  and  man- 
ners from  the  Fort.  Then  he  went  among  them, 
teaching  them  in  that  soft  dialect  and  taking  them 
completely  by  surprise. 

Duncan  wTas  dealing  with  a primitive  and  simple- 
minded  people.  He  showed  them  the  material 
advantages  to  be  gained  by  adopting  a higher  civil- 
ization, and  as  one  writer  puts  it,  “ recognized  a fact 
which  has,  unfortunately  been  little  appreciated  in 
the  past  by  those  attempting  to  civilize  heathen 
people.  ” 

He  recognized  the  fact  also,  that  it  was  the 
tutor  of  civilization,  the  instructor  in  the  mater- 
ial, as  much  as  the  teacher  of  religion  that  was 
needed,  and  that  the  civilizing  Christian  missionary 
as  Stanley  says,  “must  belong  to  no  nation  in  par- 
ticular, no  sect,  but  to  the  entire  white  race.” 

Simplicity  was  the  key-note  of  Mr.  Duncan’s  suc- 
cess. Doing  away  with  every  show  of  form  or  cere- 
mony, Air.  Duncan  taught  his  people  the  fundamen- 
tal truths  of  Christianity,  presenting  to  them  the 
one  central  idea  of  the  Omnipotent  God,  and  upon 
the  darkened,  superstitious  mind  broke  a ray  of 
light.  Further,  he  trusted  them  and  confided  in 
them.  The  effect  was  not  long  in  making  its  appear- 
ance and  he  soon  had  about  him  a circle  of  devotees. 

About  four  years  later  he  saw  that  it  would  be  wise 


94 


duncan’s  trials. 


to  get  his  little  colony  away  from  the  detrimental 
influences  of  the  trading  post.  So  he  gathered  a few 
together,  and  selecting  the  site  of  a deserted  village 
about  fifty  miles  south  of  Port  Simpson,  founded  the 
town  of  Metlakatla.  More  of  the  tribes,  among  them 
many  of  their  chiefs,  soon  followed  and  Metlakatla’s 
population  numbered  twelve  hundred. 

From  a tribe  reduced  to  the  lowest  level  of  savage 
degredation,  we  see,  in  a community  here  living 
in  Christian  civilization  the  result  of  thirty  years 
of  untiring  efforts  on  the  part  of  one  man.  At 
this  time  Metlakatla  had  an  industrious  population, 
trained  in  agricultural,  commercial  and  mercantile 
pursuits,  and  could  boast  of  a large  and  handsome 
church,  well-built  cottages,  a school  building,  black- 
smith and  carpenter  shops,  a store,  a saw-mill  and  a 
cannery,  and  built  entirely  by  the  natives  under  the 
instruction  of  Duncan,  who  has,  from  time  to  time, 
visited  the  outside  world  to  learn  of  these  things 
himself. 

Peace  was  not  to  reign  in  this  prosperous  com- 
munity forever.  Bigoted  hierarchy  was  at  work  in 
an  underhand  way,  and  in  1881  a storm  burst  over 
Metlakatla  which  threatened  it  with  destruction. 

The  Church  Missionary  Society  objected  to  Mr. 
Duncan’s  liberal  policy  of  church  rule,  and  urged 
him  to  take  orders.  Not  thinking  it  for  the  best  of 
the  cause,  he  declined,  and  after  several  attempts 
on  the  part  of  the  Society  to  reduce  him  to  subjection 
they  sent  him  a bishop.  This  narrow-minded  bit  of 
sectarianism  took  upon  himself  the  government  of 
the  mission,  and  from  then  on  mischief  was  rife. 
Bigotry,  arrogance  and  childish  display  characterized 
this  man’s  stay. 


CONTINUED  PERSECUTION. 


95 


Mr.  Duncan  and  his  party  seceded  and  formed 
themselves  into  a body  under  the  name  of  the  Chris- 
tian Church  of  Metlakatla.  The  Missionary  Society 
then  lay  claim  to  the  site  of  this  little  settlement, 
and  when  the  Dominion  Government  was  turned  to 
for  relief  and  their  appeals  treated  with  evasion,  they 
decided,  as  the  last  alternative,  to  abandon  their 
homes  and  to  seek  a refuge  within  the  territory  of 
the  United  States.  Annette  Island  in  Alaska  was 
about  ninety  miles  north  and  uninhabited.  As  this 
seemed  a favorable  location,  Air.  Duncan  visited 
Washington  to  obtain  permission  to  settle  on  this 
Island;  this  he  obtained  with  the  promise  that, 
“when  the  general  land  laws  of  the  United  States 
were  extended  to  Alaska,  ample  provision  would  be 
made  for  all  law-abiding  inhabitants.”  In  the  sum- 
mer of  1887  they  commenced  their  exodus,  and 
found  they  could  take  from  their  homes  nothing  but 
their  personal  property.  A site  was  selected  at  Port 
Chester,  Annette  Island  (named  New  Aletlakatla) 
and  here  Duncan  with  about  eight  hundred  of  his 
people  have  begun  anew,  under  the  Stars  and 
Stripes. 

The  story  of  their  wrongs  would  fill  a volume. 
Sectarianism,  the  bane  of  Christianity,  and  the 
desire  for  gain  with  politicians,  are  at  the  bottom  of 
the  trouble,  and  to  the  personal  aggrandizement  of 
the  few  has  been  sacrificed  the  well-being  of  a thous- 
and. Alaska  has,  however,  gained  an  addition  to 
her  population  which  will  be  of  the  greatest  value  to 
her  in  the  future  spread  of  civilization  and  in  the 
development  of  her  resources. 

The  achievements  of  the  civilizing  influences 
brought  to  bear  in  the  Territory  I have  attempted  to 


95 


SECTARIANISM. 


show  in  various  pages  through  this  work.  In  the 
labor  of  reclaiming  a savage  people  there  are  always 
two  contending  factions  whose  aims  lie  in  vastly 
different  directions;  these  are  the  trader  and  the 
missionary  influences;  I may  say  three,  for  there  is 
the  disinterested  speculator  or  the  resident  who,  ini 
different  to  both,  does  the  latter  no  good  and  the 
former  no  harm.  Then  there  is  the  religion  we 
would  instill  into  this  people.  Christianity  is  not 
the  unit  it  should  be,  especially  in  this  work.  Sect- 
arianism is  allowed  to  figure  more  largely  than  the 
primary  principles  of  Christianity,  presenting  to  the 
darkened  intellect  a maze  it  cannot  possibly  untangle. 
With  what  most  natural  and  evil  results?  They 
have  been  demonstrated  wherever  missionaries  have 
set  foot,  and  even  in  the  midst  of  Christian  lands. 
Leave  it  to  more  enlightened  minds  to  find,  if  they 
are  there  and  necessary,  the  virtues  of  sectarianism, 
and  present  to  the  savage  the  truth  of  the  living 
Diety  and  the  material  advantages  of  civilization. 
For  such  tuition  the  Alaskan  aborigine  is  well  pre- 
pared; such  was  the  course  of  William  Duncan  at 
Metlakatla,  and  the  consequent  result  is  his  success 
without  precedent. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


ANIMAL  LIFE  IN  ALASKA. 

Mammoths.- — Discovery  of  these  Pre-Historic 
Monsters. — The  Remarkable  Bear  of  the 
Yukon.— Other  Species  of  the  Bear. — The 
Deer,  Buffalo  and  Vulpine  Paamilies  of 
Alaska. — Fur-Bearing  Animals.  — Ornithol- 
ogy.— The  Amphibia  and  Fishes  of  Alaskan 
Waters. 

RAVELERS  in  the  interior  of 
Alaska,  and  those  who  have  ex- 
plored close  to  the  head-waters  of 
the  numerous  streams  of  that  in- 
teresting region,  are  thoroughly 
in  accord  with  the  assertion  that 
there  are  still  existing  specimens 
of  pre-historic  animals. 

Mr.  C.  F.  Fowler,  for  a long  time  a resident  of 
Alaska  as  an  attache  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Com- 
pany, is  responsible  for  the  story  that  live  mammoths 
have  been  seen  by  some  Indians  of  the  Yukon.  The 
assured  ability  of  the  soil  to  bring  forth  prodigeously 
vegetable  life,  makes  it  not  unreasonable  to  suppose 
that  in  the  unknown  and  unexplored  regions  there 
are  large  food  resources  available  for  the  support  of 
such  animals  as  natural  history  puts  under  the 
generic  name  of  “Mammoths.”  The  history  of  the 
elephant,  the  hippopotamus,  the  rhinoceros,  and  other 
bulky  animals  of  that  class,  shows  that  they  exist  and 
thrive  amid  fastnesses  where  the  tread  of  man  seldom 
enters;  and  if  this  be  the  case  in  the  Orient,  why 


98 


MAMMOTHS. 


should  not  similar  conditions,  as  to  isolation,  etc., 
work  similar  results  in  the  far  northern  Occident? 

In  the  growth  of  the  human  body  it  has  been 
demonstrated  that  cold  climates  produce  larger  and 
more  vigorous  men  than  are  bred  in  the  enervation  of 
tropical  clime.  Therefore,  if  India  grows  elephants, 
why  should  not  Alaska  produce  a mammoth;  and  if 
China  has  produced  the  giant  Chang,  why  might  not 
the  latitude  of  Alaska  bring  forth  as  great  if  not  a 
greater  animal  wonder. 

But  the  facts  as  to  past-existent  life  of  mammoth 


proportions  in  Alaska  are  self-evident  and  indis- 
putable. The  ivory  tusks  of  these  animals  are  a reg- 
ular article  of  commerce,  and  cumber  the  earth  of  the 
interior,  while  the  natives  are  unanimous  in  the  asser- 
tion that  animals  of  proportions  unknown  to  the  civ- 
ilized countries  of  the  world  roam  through  the  fast- 
nesses of  what  has  been  called  a terra  incognita.  The 
Alaska  Commercial  Company  bought  a large  amount 
of  supposed  fossil  ivory  from  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the 
Innuit  tribe  of  Alaskan  Indians,  and,  on  examina- 
tion, blood  stains  and  fragments  of  flesh  were  found 


MAMMOTH  REMAINS. 


99 


adhering  to  the  tusks.  The  agent  questioned  the 
aborigines,  and  learned  from  a young  man  who  had 
led  the  hunt  in  which  the  ivory  was  taken  that  the 
party  had  encountered  a bull  and  cow  of  the  masto- 
don species.  The  cow  had  fled  on  the  male  trumpet- 
ing an  alarm,  but  the  bull  was  killed  by  a musket 
ball  through  the  brain,  and,  subsequently,  the  female 
seeking  her  mate,  was  encountered  and  dispatched. 
A rough  sketch  of  the  bull,  drawn  by  the  Indian 
who  had  led  the  hunting  party,  would  make  its 
dimensions  over  twenty  feet  in  height  and  thirty 
feet  in  length.  The  American  aborigine,  whether 
in  Alaska  or  other  section,  is  more  or  less  given  to 
exaggeration  in  describing  natural  objects,  either 
animate  or  inanimate;  but,  making  all  due  allow- 
ance for  this,  the  tusks  themselves  are  evidence 
sufficient  to  show  that  they  had  been  worn  by  animals 
of  a size  greater  than  any  living  species  in  any  other 
part  of  the  known  world. 

Prof.  John  Muir,  undoubted^  the  greatest  living 
authority  on  Alaska,  a close  observer  and  a most 
conscientious  and  conservative  man,  in  his  writings 
and  personal  assertions  adds  his  testimony  to  the 
theory  that  the  living  mastadon  is  existent  to-day  in 
Alaska.  He  has  seen  the  bones  of  these  animals 
with  the  fresh  flesh  adhering  to  them,  and  has  seen 
them  all  over  the  southwestern  slope  of  Alaska. 
The  theory  that  the  flesh  was  preserved  by  climatic 
influences  is  not  tenable,  as  in  some  of  the  valleys 
the  atmosphere  while  humid,  is  at  certain  seasons  of 
the  year,  mild,  balmy  and  dessicating.  Prof.  Muir 
has  told  me  that  all  over  Alaska  are  the  remains  of 
myriads  of  these  monsters,  and  that  the  natives 
along  the  coast  have  a superstition  that  the  skele- 


TOO 


THE  YUKON  BEAR. 


tons  are  those  of  some  mammoth  burrowing  animal 
like  the  mole.  We  are  not,  with  the  evidence  shown, 
however,  ready  to  believe  that  mammoths  at  present 
inhabit  Alaska  or  any  other  portion  of  the  globe. 

While  it  is  conceded  that  the  bones  are  those  of  an 
animal  either  of  or  closely  related  to  the  elephant 
species,  it  would  be  most  interesting  to  the  cause  of 
science  if  a live  specimen  could  be  procured,  and 
perhaps  when  the  mysteries  of  the  sealed  book  of 
this  Northland  shall  be  exposed  by  the  enterprise, 
daring  and  push  of  the  Americans — as  they  surely 
will  be  in  time — some  zoological  garden  may  contain 
a Simon-pure,  real  live  and  kicking  mastodon  as  a 
relic  of  a geologic  age  which  all  the  rest  of  the  world 
but  Alaska  has  passed  countless  centuries  ago. 

Among  the  great  wonders  of  Alaska,  unfortunately 
not  vouchsafed  the  tourist’s  vision,  is  an  un-named 
marvel  of  the  Yukon  region,  a species  of  bear,  which 
has  a strong  claim  upon  our  esteem.  A miner,  one 
McOuestin,  well  known  for  his  veracity,  is  responsi- 
ble for  the  discovery  and  addition  of  this  animal  to 
the  natural  history  of  Alaska.  The  animal  as  seen 
by  McQuestin  possesses  some  of  the  peculiarities  of 
both  the  cinnamon  and  the  grizzly  bear  of  the  south. 
He  inhabits  solely  the  mountainous  and  unknown 
wilderness  of  the  Yukon,  never  leaving  his  steep  and 
rugged  fastness  for  the  more  convivial,  regions  of  the 
low  lands.  He  is  described  as  large,  fierce  and  rather 
awkward;  but  the  peculiarity  of  this  brute  is  that,  the 
better  to  enable  him  to  roam  about  the  mountain-sides 
and  steep  places,  his  legs  on  one  side  are  shorter  than 
the  other  two.  Surely  Nature  is  provident! 

Alaska,  while  not  rich  in  variety  of  animal  life, 
for  a new  and  comparatively  unsettled  and  unknown 


CHIEF  KOW-EE  AND  INDIAN  BUCKS  AFTER  A B 
From  photograph  109,  by  Winter  Photo  Co.,  Eugene,  Ore. 


THE  BEAR  SPECIES. 


IOI 


country,  is  fruitful  of  the  species  which  are  known 
and  identified.  Admitting  the  existence  of  living 
mastodons  on  portions  of  the  Territory  as  yet  unpen- 
etrated by  white  men,  and  for  which  there  seems  to 
be  at  least  a plausibility,  the  next  animal  in  propor- 
tion is  the  bear.  The  well-known  polar  bear  is 
familiar  in  all  our  school  books,  pictured  often  as 
lazily  floating  on  a cake  of  ice,  seeking  something 
on  the  surface  of  the  waters  that  he  may  gobble  up 
and  devour,  and  his  skin  large,  white  and  glossy,  is 
familiar  in  the  fur  stores  all  over  the  world,  and 
makes  a sleigh-robe  for  the  prince  in  Europe  and  the 
ordinary,  every-day  millionaire  in  America.  In 
addition  to  the  polar  bear,  which  is  found  only  in 
the  Arctic  regions,  Alaska  has  the  cinnamon  bear, 
once  common  and  not  yet  extinct  in  the  Alleghanies, 
the  Rock}'-  Mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  the 
grizzly,  still  an  inhabitant  of  those  places  and  the 
Coast  Range  of  California,  though  not  so  plentiful 
as  when  he  wanted  to  shake  hands  and  exchange  an 
affectionate  embrace  with  the  hardy  prospector  in  the 
early  days  of  gold  hunting.  There  is  also  the  black 
bear,  a harmless,  kittenish  sort  of  an  individual — if 
you  don’t  get  too  close  and  take  liberties  with  him 
when  he  is  hungry.  There  is  an  un-named  species 
of  bear  found  in  portions  of  Alaska,  that  is  merely 
known  as  the  Mt.  St.  Elias  bear  on  account  of  his 
most  frequent  habitat  being  in  the  vicinity  of  Mt.  St. 
Elias.  This  animal  does  not  belong  to  McOuestiu’s 
breed  of  bears.  The  head  is  broader  than  that  of  any 
other  species  of  bear  known  to  natural  history,  the 
fur  resembling  that  of  the  gray  fox  or  brindled  wolf. 
It  is  a bear  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  but  it  has  a 
sort  of  undercoat  of  slate-gray  fur,  through  which 


102 


DEER  AND  MOOSE. 


grows  an  outer  coat  of  coarse  hair,  alternating  with 
black  and  wThite,  the  combination  giving  silvery  yet 
brindled  tints.  Specimens  of  this  animal  are  quite 
rare  near  the  coast  and  its  skin  is  very  highly  prized, 
the  Indians  even  refusing  as  high  as  one  hundred 
dollars  in  gold  for  a single  skin.  Where  one  of 
these  skins  is  taken,  the  shaman  of  the  family  to 
which  the  mighty  hunters  who  took  it  belong, 
demands  that  it  be  hung  up  in  front  of  the  “big 
house  ” of  the  village,  not  only  as  a trophy  of  the 
prowess  of  the  entire  family,  but  as  a totem  or  talis- 
man for  success  in  the  chase. 

Next  in  importance  as  regards  size  is  the  moose, 
or  elk,  as  it  is  variously  called.  All  the  Rocky 
Mountain  region  and  the  coast  line  ranges  from  Ore- 
gon northward,  at  one  time  contained  large  herds  of 
moose,  and  it  is  not  more  than  a quarter  of  a century 
since  they  were  so  plentiful  in  parts  of  Montana  and 
Idaho  that  one  could  scarcely  make  a day’s  journey 
without  encountering  pairs  or  herds  of  them.  It  is 
the  largest  of  the  deer  family,  and  the  specimens 
found  in  the  Arctic  exceed  in  size  those  found  in  any 
other  portion  of  the  world.  As  an  average,  a full- 
grown  moose  in  Alaska  has  dimensions  of  about  six 
feet  in  height  and  measures  from  seven  to  eight  feet 
from  nose'  to  tail,  the  tail  being  about  eight  inches 
in  length.  The  weight  of  the  animal  runs  from 
twelve  hundred  to  fifteen  hundred  pounds,  inclusive 
of  the  horns,  which  range  in  weight  from  seventy 
pounds  up  to  one  hundred  and  fifty.  The  moose 
is  not  a pretty  animal.  He  is  as  awkward  and 
clumsy  and  apparently  as  much  out  of  place  as 
a creature  of  grace  in  the  deer  family  as  a rich  coun- 
try uncle  in  a family  reunion  in  a city  mansion. 


DEER  AND  MOOSE.  103 

But  like  the  country  uncle  he  is  useful.  His  meftt 
is  “jerked”  and  affords  winter  food  for  the  natives; 
his  hide,  hoofs  and  horns  are  articles  of  commerce, 
and  used,  when  he  was  in  the  prime  of  his  plentiful- 
ness and  before  the  inroads  of  civilization  made  him 
scarce,  to  constitute  an  important  factor  of  trade 
among  the  Indians,  trappers,  traders  and  commercial 
organizations  which  extended  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  Pacific  seaboard  and  all  the  great  marts  of  the 
world.  The  elk  is  still  occasionally  found  in  the 
higher  latitudes  of  the  continent  even,  however,  as 
low  as  that  of  Maine;  but  the  tread  and  snorting  of 
the  iron  horse,  the  repeating  rifle  and  the  westward 
march  of  Empire  have  all  but  obliterated  the  animal, 
and  its  last  refuge  is  iu  the  romantic  wilds  of 
Alaska. 

The  buffalo,  so  far  as  magnitude  of  structure  and 
stature  are  concerned,  is  about  contemporaneous  with 
the  moose.  In  Idaho,  Montana,  Oregon  and  Wash- 
ington the  animal  is  invariably  called  the  elk.  To 
the  northward,  especially  in  British  territory,,  it  is 
called  the  moose. 

Buffalo  are  occasionally  seen  in  Alaska,  but  they 
are  smaller  in  size  than  the  noble  animal  that  in 
great  herds  used  to  roam  the  vast  plains  of  the  north- 
west, and  which,  but  for  the  fostering  care  of  the 
Government,  would  be  as  nearW  extinct  a species  as 
the  mastodon  itself. 

Various  kinds  of  deer  are  also  found  in  Alaska. 
The  white-tailed  and  the  black-tailed  deer  are  abun- 
dant in  the  interior  of  some  of  the  islands  of  the 
Archipelago,  and  the  musk-ox,  which  northwestern 
hunters  and  trappers  associate  with  the  deer  species, 
is  occasionally  met  with.  Another  member  of  the 


io4 


FUR  BEARFRS. 


deer  family,  the  most  graceful  and  beautiful  of  all— 
though,  sad  to  say,  the  flavor  of  his  meat  does  not 
come  up  to  the  beauty  of  his  appearance — which  is 
met  with  in  Alaska,  is  the  antelope,  or  “ gazelle.” 

The  industrious  and  pains-taking  beaver — that 
thorough  emblem  of  the  maxim  that,  by  the  sweat  of 
thy  brow  thou  shaft  earn  thy  bread;  that  complete 
exponent  of  labor  as  the  main  factor  in  the  struggle 
for  existence — is  frequently  found  in  the  streams  of 
Alaska,  but  the  hunt  that  has  gone  on,  year  after  year, 
for  its  furry  envelope  has  diminished  its  numbers 
so,  that  ere  long  it  will  be  but  a relic  and  a memory, 
as  it  is  to-day  in  Montana,  where  once  it  flourished 
and  where  its  cunning  architecture  could  be  seen  on 
almost  every  stream. 

The  Alaskan  country,  isolated  as  it  has  been  to 
the  world  in  general,  has  not  been  free  from  the 
inroads  of  the  trapper  and  hunter;  in  fact,  in  the 
pursuit  of  fur-bearing  animals,  it  was  a fruitful  field 
long  before  more  accessible  localities  had  been  worked 
for  furs.  While  Alaska  is  to-day  rich  in  fur-bearing 
animals,  both  land  and  amphibious,  the  evidences 
are  apparent  that  over  two  centuries  of  trap,  bow  and 
arrow  and  gun  have  all  but  decimated  many  species 
once  plentiful,  but  now  represented  only  by  occas- 
ional specimens.  The  chamois  (a  wild  goat,  but 
familiarly  known  among  the  early  mountaineers  as 
the  mountain  sheep)  was  plentiful  in  Alaskan 
ranges,  as  it  was  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  not  so 
many  years  ago;  but  the  swift  and  unerring  bullet 
of  the  hunter  overcame  the  remarkable  agility  and 
cunning  of  this  animal.  Specimens  are  occasionally 
seen  from  the  coast  and  from  the  banks  of  the  rivers, 
sadly  contemplating  the  smoke  of  the  steamer  and 


RUSTIC  BRIDGE  OVER  INDIAN  RIVER,  SITKA 

From  a photograph  by  Ingersoll,  St.  Paul,  Minn.,  3511. 


MINK  AND  WOLF. 


105 

wondering  at  the  sound  of  the  whistle  that  echoes 
through  its  native  forests,  but  they  are  so  wary  and 
make  themselves  so  scarce  011  the  approach  of  man 
that  it  is  not  considered  worth  while  to  hunt  them. 

The  mink,  that  pretty  little  animal,  whose  fur 
some  thirty  years  ago  was  as  fashionable  for  a lady’s 
outer  habiliments  as  the  skin  of  the  seal  is  to-day, 
roamed  Alaska  in  what  seemed  inexhaustible  num- 
bers; but  the  stern  demands  of  fashion,  that  hand- 
maid of  commerce,  have  almost  entirely  obliter- 
ated this  animal.  Moreover,  the  mink  is  out  of 
fashion  in  the  make-up  of  a stylish  lady’s  garments. 
Only  a few  years  ago  the  mink  was  quite  common 
in  Montana,  and  it  is  less  than  thirty  years  ago 
that  they  were  trapped  on  the  forks  of  the  Yuba  in 
California. 

The  Siberian  wolf  is  found  in  Alaska.  The  story- 
books represent  the  Siberian  wolf  as  a fierce  and 
dangerous  animal,  running  in  packs,  maddened  by 
hunger  and  ready  to  attack  and  devour  anything  and 
everything;  and  almost  every  school-boy  has  read 
the  thrilling  stories  of  the  pursuit  of  sledges  by 
packs  of  wolves  in  Russia,  when  the  frightened  occu- 
pants would  cast  out  their  robes  and  other  valuables 
to  stay  the  progress  of  the  maddened  and  all-devour- 
ing fiends.  The  Siberian  wolf,  as  found  in  Alaska, 
is  like  all  his  cousins  in  the  wolf  family,  a coward. 
He  will  run  at  the  sight  of  a human  being,  and  the 
sound  of  a shot  from  a gun,  even  if  he  be  not  pinged 
by  the  ball,  will  give  him  a celerity  in  his  escape,  and 
his  alacrity  in  avoiding  danger  is  phenomenal.  The 
saying  runs  like  a scared  wolf,”  applies  as  well  to 
the  fabled  Siberian  wolf  as  it  does  to  the  humble 
coyote  of  the  great  North  American  plains.  The 


io6 


WOLF  AND  FOX. 


pelts  of  all  the  various  species  of  wolves  in  Alaska 
find  a market,  and  that  of  the  Siberian  is  most  valu- 
able. .Among  the  species  are  Canis  Lupis , or  the 
European  wolf,  now  almost  extinct  in  most  parts  of 
Europe.  It  is  a close  relative  of  the  Siberian  wolf 
and  is  found  in  Alaska.  It  is  not  a ferocious  animal 
and  is  easily  tamed,  and  the  geneology  of  the  Eskimo 
and  other  domesticated  dogs  in  the  Arctic  is  traced 
to  this  animal.  In  its  native  state,  however,  it  is 
hunted  for  its  hide  and  is  still  quite  common.  The 
coyote  (prairie  wolf)  is  likewise  found  in  Alaska,  but 
is  not  even  distinguished  by  being  represented  as  a 
totem,  let  alone  being  hunted  for  its  hide  and  fur. 
It  is  a sort  of  Pariah  in  the  wolf  family,  is  both  a 
coward  and  a thief  and,  unfortunately  for  itself,  pos- 
sesses no  attribute  which  makes  its  component  parts 
valuable  to  man,  and  it  therefore  enjoys  an  immunity 
not  shared  by  other  wolves.  When  the  country 
becomes  more  settled  and  grazing  becomes  one  of  the 
industries  of  parts  of  Alaska,  as  it  will  in  time,  the 
coyote  will  find  a price  set  on  his  head.  In  Alaska 
are  also  found  the  gray  wolf,  the  white  wolf,  whose 
skins  are  valuable,  the  Oregon  giant  wolf  (so-called), 
and  the’silver  wolf,  which  bears  a strong  resemblance 
to  the  silver-gray  fox. 

Various  kinds  of  foxes  are  found  in  Alaska,  con- 
spicuous among  which  is  the  silver-gray  fox,  which 
is  hunted  for  its  skin,  which  forms  quite  an  item  of 
trade  with  the  natives.  The  most  prominent  of  the 
vulpines,  however,  is  the  Arctic  fox.  The  fur  of  the 
adult  is  of  a clear,  glistening  white  and  is  very  beau- 
tiful. The  fur  of  the  young  is  of  a dull  leaden  color, 
and  the  natives  never  kill  these  animals  until  they 
have  attained  their  maturity,  and  the  fur  has  assumed 


ERMINE.  107 

its  peculiar  snowy  gloss,  when  the  skins  command 
a good  price  at  the  trading  posts. 

Mephitis  Americana , commonly  known  as  the  pole- 
cat, is  one  of  the  prettiest  little  animals  known  to  the 
North  American  continent.  As  to  him  we  may  use 
the  aphorism,  “handsome  is  that  handsome  does;  ” 
but  comment  on  his  attributes,  aside  from  his  looks, 
is  not  necessary7.  The  pole-cat  is,  nevertheless,  a 
valuable  fur-bearing  animal,  and  his  skin  is  in  high 
demand  in  Europe  for  robes  of  royalty.  The  ermine, 
whose  fur  has  for  centuries  been  a token  of  rank  and 
royalty,  was  plentiful,  according  to  native  traditions, 
generations  ago,  and  specimens  of  this  pretty  animal 
are  still  met  with  in  Alaska.  Naturalists  aver  that 
the  ermine  and  pole-cat  are  first  cousins,  but  certain 
it  is  that,  with  the  practical  extinction  of  the  ermine, 
the  fur  of  the  pole-cat  has  taken  its  place,  and  many  a 
judicial  robe  that  passes  for  ermine  is  simply  pole- 
cat. This  animal  is  very7  common  in  Alaska. 

The  porcupine  is  an  animal  who  makes  himself 
somewhat  too  unpleasantly  numerous  in  Alaska. 
One  might  be  out  looking  for  stray7  glaciers,  or  try- 
ing to  get  a shot  at  a mammoth  of  the  Pliocene 
period,  and  he  would  be  just  as  apt  to  come  across  a 
curious  looking  ball,  and  when  he  got  too  close  to  it 
the  vicious  little  varmint  would  open  his  battery7  of 
quills,  and  the  investigator  would  think  he  had 
struck  a new  thing  in  botany7  in  the  shape  of  a 
live  and  kicking  member  of  the  cactus  family.  Of 
other  animal  life  (quadrupedal),  it  is  only  necessary 
to  sayr  that  Alaska  contains  nearly  all  the  fur-bear- 
ing animals  known  to  the  Temperate  and  Arctic 
Zones,  from  the  smallest  rodent  up  to  the  highest 
mammalia. 


io8 


ORNITHOLOGY. 


This  is  not  a work  on  Natural  History;  it  is  merely 
descriptive  of  a land  of  comparative  isolation — full  of 
romance  and  mystery  and  offering  a magnificent  field 
to  the  student  of  Nature,  to  the  scientist,  to  the  trad- 
der,  to  the  curiosity-seeker,  to  the  traveler  either  on 
pleasure  or  enterprise  bent,  and  full  of  possibilities, 
commercial,  progressive,  geographical  and  develop- 
mental. The  resources  of  Alaska,  other  than  so  far 
referred  to,  will  be  treated  in  other  chapters,  and 
though  the  literature  of  Alaska  is  rich  and  exhaus- 
tive as  already  written,  the  effort  in  these  chapters 
on  the  possibilities  of  Alaska,  will  be  to  show  that 
the  half  has  not  been  told. 

The  ornithology  of  Alaska  is  not  specially  remark- 
able, exclusive  of  the  fact  that  near  the  coast  and  far 
up  along  the  banks  of  the  rivers  even  in  the  winter 
time,  and  amid  the  vegetation  at  the  foot  of  glaciers 
are  found  many  kinds  of  song-birds  and  birds  of 
beautiful  plumage  known  to  more  southern  climes, 
among  which  are  the  canary,  thrush,  linnet,  vesper- 
sparrow,  wood-pecker,  humming-bird,  whip-poor-will 
and  other  small  feathered  bipeds.  The  majority  of 
the  birds  found  in  Alaska,  however,  are  acquatic  and 
migratory,  such  as  duck,  goose,  curlew,  sand-thrill, 
crane,  diver,  pelican,  land-gull  and  sea-gull,  snipe 
and  the  shag,  a member  of  the  cormorant  family 
and  so  plentiful  in  the  Pribyloff  Group  that  the 
flocks  at  times  darken  the  sky.  It  is  asserted  that 
the  summer  home  and  breeding  ground  of  the  wild 
goose,  duck  and  other  migratory-acquatic  birds  com- 
mon all  over  the  American  continent  is  in  the  far 
North  and  particularly  in  Alaska. 

Among  the  most  interesting  animals  of  Alaska, 
and  in  fact  the  most  important  in  a commercial 


AMPHIBIA. 


IO9 


sense,  are  the  amphibia;  the  most  conspicuous  of 
these  dual-lived  animals  being  the  sea  otter,  the 
river  otter,  beaver,  walrus,  sea-lion  and  the  fur-seal. 
The  beaver  has  heretofore  been  mentioned  in  these 
pages,  and  the  river  otter  and  the  beaver  are  now 
scarcely  more  than  relics  of  the  past.  The  walrus  is 
still  an  important  land-marine  animal  for  its  ivory, 
oil  and  hide,  and  is  hunted  by  both  native  and  white 
fishermen.  The  walrus  belongs  to  the  seal  family, 
but  its  proportions  are  the  largest  of  any  member  of 
that  tribe;  its  fur  is  coarser  and  closer  and  its  skin 
thicker,  being  sometimes  as  much  as  two  inches  in 
thickness.  Under  the  skin  it  carries  a coating  of 
fat,  which  wise  Nature  seems  to  have  made  as  a pro- 
vision in  all  the  marine  and  amphibious  animals  of 
the  Arctic  regions  as  a pi'otection  from  cold.  The 
walrus  attains  a growth  of  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet 
in  length  and  eight  to  ten  feet  in  circumference. 
Specimens  are  taken  at  times  which  measure  twenty 
feet  in  length,  twelve  feet  in  circumference  and 
in  weight  over  two  thousand  pounds.  The  tusks  are 
fashioned  by  the  natives  into  various  articles  of 
household  use  and  into  weapons,  and  are  bartered 
and  sold  to  ships’  crews  and  officers  and  at  the  trad- 
ing posts.  Arctic  sailors  of  an  artistic  turn  do  some 
beautiful  engraving  011  the  walrus  tusk,  and  this  art 
has  no  doubt  been  learned  from  the  natives,  who  are 
apt  in  the  work,  but  whose  representations  are  crude 
and  barbaric.  Walrus  ivory  is  a standard  article  of 
trade  the  world  over,  also  walrus  oil,  as  are  the 
marine  oils  of  the  Arctic  region.  The  uses  of  this 
oleaginous  material  are  too  multifarious  for  mention 
in  this  work.  The  flesh  of  the  walrus  is  eaten  by 
natives  and  ships’  crews,  and  the  skin  tans  a heavy, 


iio 


AMPHIBIA. 


porous  leather  over  an  inch  thick,  and  is  used  for 
various  purposes  in  Russia. 

The  sea-lion — a member  of  the  seal  family,  closely 
allied — also  is  common  in  Alaskan  waters  and  extends 
far  to  the  southward.  On  the  ocean  coast  of  San 
Francisco  and  up  into  the  harbor  almost  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Sacramento  River,  these  amphibia  are  found. 
Their  land  habitation  is  on  reefs  of  rocks,  and  they  sel- 
dom approach  the  shore.  They  are  protected  by 
State  law  in  California,  notwithstanding  that  they 
devour  large  quantities  of  salmon  and  other  valuable 
food-fish;  though  sometimes  hunters  are  permitted  to 
lassoo  specimens  for  museum  purposes.  The  object  of 
this  protection  is  that  the  seals  on  the  Seal  Rocks,  just 
off  the  Cliff  House,  a prominent  place  of  San  Fran- 
cisco resort,  may  be  kept  as  a show  for  strangers 
visiting  the  city,  and  among  sights  exhibited  to 
the  tourist  in  San  Francisco  are  the  sea-lions.  These 
animals  are  not  hunted  extensively  in  Arctic  waters, 
as  their  fur  being  sparce  and  stubby  has  no  commer- 
cial value;  their  skins  are  too  porous  for  leather,  and 
they  do  not  carry  enough  blubber  to  make  their  oil 
profitable,  though  the  natives  use  the  skin  for  house 
roofs,  and  from  its  viscera  fashion  various  household 
utensils. 

But  the  chief  of  all  the  animals  of  Alaska  for  num- 
bers, richness  of  fur  and  commercial  importance  is  the 
fur-seal.  As  a matter  of  fact,  notwithstanding  the 
great  material  resources  known  to  exist  in  Alaska, 
the  seal  industry  next  to  the  fisheries  is  of  the  most 
value. 

Another  great  resource  of  Alaska  at  the  present 
time,  and  one  which,  with  proper  precautions  and 
care,  will  last  indefinitely  and  perhaps  perpetually, 


AQUATICS. 


Ill 


is  its  fisheries.  The  principal  species  of  fish  found 
in  Alaskan  waters  are  cod,  salmon,  halibut,  herring, 
tomcod,  ulikon,  mullet,  trout  and  suckers.  At  the 
present  time  the  most  important  of  these  in  a com- 
mercial sense  is  the  salmon  fishery,  and  next  to  that 
the  cod.  Including  the  halibut,  these  are  the  only 
fish  that  are  largely  used  for  trade  purposes,  though 
of  late  the  ulikon  has  been  caught  in  large  numbers 
and  the  oil  extracted.  The  ulikon  is  said  to  belong 
to  the  same  species  as  the  menhaden  of  the  New 
England  coast,  which  are  taken  in  enormous  quan- 
tities for  their  oil,  and  the  residue  is  dessicated 
and  used  as  a fertilizer.  The  herring  fisheries  of 
Alaskan  waters  have  not,  so  far,  been  extensively 
worked,  though  the  fish  are  exceedingly  numerous 
and  of  fine  flavor  and  are  said  to  strongly  resemble 
the  famed  Yarmouth  bloater,  both  in  taste  and  size 
and  in  general  appearance. 

The  candle-fish,  of  which  large  numbers  are 
caught,  are  almost  a mass  of  oil,  if  such  a term  could 
be  properly  used  to  convey  the  intended  idea.  They 
can  be  found  in  the  stores  of  San  Francisco,  but  are 
not  highly  prized,  as  they  are  too  rich.  The  natives 
preserve  them  and  use  them  for  torches,  as  when 
lighted  they  will  burn  like  a candle;  hence  the  name, 

‘ ‘ candle-fish.  ” 


CHAPTER  IX. 


RESOURCES. 

Alaska’s  Great  Wealth. — Extent  of  Her  Gold 
and  Silver  Mines.- — Valuable  Discoveries  of 
Mineral  Wealth. — The  Abundance  of  Coal 
and  Timber. — Value  of  Her  Furs,  Fisheries, 
etc. — The  Great  Treadwell  Mine. — Devel- 
opment of  Placer  Mining.  — Industry  and 
Growth  of  Her  Canneries. — Prospects  for  a 
Bright  Future. 


HE  material  resources  of  Al- 
aska, though  they  can  only 
as  yet  be  said  to  be  in  mere 
progress  of  development,  are 
many  and  varied.  The  most 
important  can  be  summed  up 
as  follows:  skins,  oils  of  land 
and  amphibious  animals,  tim- 
ber, coal  and  mining  in  silver, 
lead,  iron  and  copper,  which  is  now  carried  on 
extensively. 

Recent  mineral  exploration  has  added  much  that 
is  new  to  the  known  material  wealth  of  the  Terri- 
tory. At  Glacier  Bay  and  elsewhere,  has  been  found 
traces  of  silver,  iron  and  gray  copper,  and  plumbago 
that  may  equal  the  Siberian.  Garnet  is  found  on 
the  Stikine  River,  but  seems  of  little  value.  It  is 
blasted  out  of  black  slate  which  bears  it,  and  is  full 
of  blemishes.  Galena  ores  are  quite  common,  but  no 


IN  THE  DISTANCE. 

From  photograph  7802,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


TREADWELL  MINE. 


113 

extensive  mining  and  reduction  of  them  is  carried  on. 
Mica,  asbestos,  lime-stone  and  red  ochre  have  been 
discovered  in  several  localities,  but  have  been  mined 
to  no  great  extent  and  some  not  at  all.  Great 
deposits  of  native  copper  exist  at  various  points  and 
several  mines  are  worked  for  this  mineral  on  Prince 
of  Wales  Island. 

The  principal  gold  mines  of  Alaska  are  on  Douglas 
Island,  southeastern  Alaska.  The  island  is  about 
eight  miles  in  breadth.  The  ledges  lie  along  the 
eastern  side  of  the  island,  from  one  thousand  to  one 
thousand  five  hundred  feet.  The  only  mine  thus  far 
developed  sufficiently  to  be  on  a paying  basis  is  the 
famous  Treadwell  mine.  This  mine,  though  in  a 
well-defined  true  fissure  vein,  is  more  like  a great 
quarry  of  gold  quartz  and  is  probably  the  most 
extensive  solid  body  of  that  precious  material  in  the 
known  world.  It  is  true  the  ores  are  of  low  grade, 
ranging  from  six  dollars  to  eighteen  dollars  per  ton, 
but  such  is  the  immensity  of  the  vein,  the  facility  of 
extraction  and  the  “freeness  ” of  the  ore  for  simpli- 
fied extraction  that  the  rock  is  extracted  and  worked 
at  so  small  a cost  as  to  leave  a large  margin  of  profit 
in  the  aggregate.  The  quartz  mill  on  the  Treadwell 
is  the  largest  in  the  world,  containing  the  enormous 
number  of  two  hundred  and  forty  stamps  under  one 
roof.  The  machinery  is  run  by  water-power 
furnished  by  a ditch  which  taps  several  mountain 
streams.  Douglas  Island,  like  Baronoff,  upon  which 
Sitka  is  located,  is  seamed  all  over  with  aurif- 
erous quartz  and  has  been  prospected  and  staked 
off  into  mining  claims  by  the  industrious  pros- 
pector. Auriferous  pyrites  are  also  found  on 
Douglas  Island  and  milled  for  gold.  Besides  abun- 


1 14  MINING  ABOUT  JUNEAU. 

dant  indications  of  gold  and  some  silver  all  along 
the  coast  as  well  as  upon  the  islands,  the  mountains 
of  Alaska  abound  in  gold-bearing  quartz,  and  the 
extent  of  these  deposits,  it  is  claimed  by  experienced 
miners,  will  be  equal  to  any  similar  discoveries  in 
California  or  Australia. 

Capital  is  but  just  being  attracted  to  this  field. 
Eastern  and  European  capitalists  are  largely  inter- 
ested, and  there  are  several  companies  in  San  Fran- 
cisco organized  for  the  purpose  of  developing  the 
mining  industry  in  Alaska.  Active  work  has  been 
going  on  for  some  time  in  the  Silver  Bow  Basin,  four 
miles  from  Juneau,  where  hydraulic  mining  has  been 
successfully  and  profitably  carried  on,  and  extensive 
plans  are  on  the  tapis  for  the  tunneling  and  sluicing 
of  these  claims.  These  mines  are  owned  by  Thomas 
S.  Nowell,  of  Boston,  a man  of  excellent  judgment, 
who  is  now  driving  a tunnel,  a half  a mile  in  length, 
to  tap  the  Basin  one  hundred  feet  deep.  F.  St.Q.  Cock- 
burn,  an  experienced  miner,  is  the  superintendent  of 
this  undertaking,  which  promises  a rich  reward. 

The  gold  and  silver  product  of  the  Territory,  which 
has  entered  the  market  through  the  express  com- 
panies and  private  hands,  amounted  to  $2,230,000  in 
the  year  1889. 

A short  time  ago  it  was  believed  by  many  intelli- 
gent miners  that  silver  could  be  found  here  in  paying 
quantities,  but  the  comparatively  recent  opening  up 
to  the  Sheep  Creek  region  proved  differently.  Prom- 
inent among  the  various  mines  discovered  here  is 
the  Silver  Queen  which  exhibits  enough  ore  in  sight 
to  warrant  the  erection  of  a ten  stamp  mill,  concen- 
trator and  other  working  conveniences.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  worth  of 


COAL,  FIELDS. 


1*5 

silver  ore  is  awaiting  extraction  at  tliis  time,  while 
in  the  upper  and  lower  levels  some  two  feet  of  fine 
ore  is  shown  up. 

Coal  of  a superior  quality  has  been  found  on  the 
Kenai  Peninsula,  and  a company  is  now  engaged  in 
the  work  of  prospecting  and  developing  the  mines. 
This  company  owns  nearly  four  thousand  acres  of 
coal  lands,  and  it  is  estimated  that  the  two  principal 
veins  will  }deld  2,500,000  tons  per  quarter  section. 
The  coal  lies  in  such  large  and  compact  bodies  that 
the  cost  of  mining  is  small,  compared  to  that  in 
other  coal  fields  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  Coal  is  also 
found  and  mined  in  quantities  on  Admiralty  Island. 
Large  veins  of  coal  exist  on  the  shore  of  Cook’s 
Inlet,  which  were  known  to  the  Russians  who  mined 
it  for  Colonial  use,  at  Port  Graham.  Immense  out- 
cropping seams  are  conspicuous  here  as  elsewhere  on 
the  Inlet,  and  some  coal  is  found  on  Unga  Island. 
Experts  say  that  there  is  sufficient  coal  here  to  sup- 
ply the  whole  Pacific  Coast  with  a better  and  cheaper 
article  than  is  now  on  the  market.  Accessibility  is 
a great  advantage  to  the  development  of  these  fields. 
Petroleum  is  reported  in  some  localities,  and  the 
presence  of  coal  would  seem  to  give  color  to  the 
report.  Iron  is  known  to  be  abundant;  a fine  mar- 
ble has  been  found  in  plenty,  and  about  the  many 
volcanic  peaks  and  craters  an  abundance  of  sulphur 
exists. 

When  it  is  recollected  that  Alaska,  by  reason  of 
her  geographical  location,  has  been  under  the  ban, 
because  neither  her  climate  nor  natural  possibilities 
were  known  and  understood;  that  she  was  sneered 
at,  at  the  time  of  our  acquisition,  as  an  iceberg  bor- 
der to  an  expanding  map;  that  she  had  to  grow 


ii6 


MINERALS  AND  TIMBER. 


slowly  into  our  esteem  as  the  prejudices  engendered 
by  ignorance  were  removed  by  conscientious  tourists 
and  explorers,  it  becomes  a matter  of  astonishment 
to  note  the  rapid  development  of  the  mining  and 
other  resources  of  Alaska. 

In  the  discovery  and  exploration  of  minerals 
Alaska  bids  fair  to  realize  the  prophecy  of  Professor 
Muir,  who  was  certain  that  this  region  would  prove 
to  be  one  of  the  richest  gold  fields  of  America.  It 
was  also  his  belief  that  the  great  mineral  vein  from 
Mexico  to  British  America  continued  through  Alaska 
to  Siberia.  Mining  developments  are  daily  strength- 
ening the  correctness  of  this  theory.  Not  only  has 
gold  been  found  in  numerous  localities  such  as  Sitka, 
Cassias,  Douglas  Island,  Skeena,  Silver  Bow  Basin, 
Sheep’s  Head  and  Bernier  Bay,  but  prospectors  have 
returned  from  the  head-waters  of  the  Yukon  carrying 
specimens  of  silver,  copper,  nickel  and  bituminous 
coal. 

The  timber  resources  of  Alaska  are  as  yet  un- 
touched. In  numerous  places  along  the  coast  there 
are  huge  groves  of  cedar  and  pine;  juniper  and  birch 
of  large  proportions  are  found  further  inland.  The 
presence  of  immense  logs  in  the  drift  that  comes 
down  the  rivers  is  evidence  of  great  forests  further 
up,  and  most  anywhere  inland  pine,  spruce  and  cedar 
can  be  found  five  and  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  a 
valuable  timber  which  is  not  found  south  of  Port- 
land Channel  but  in  very  small  quantities,  is  a cedar 
said  to  be  impregnable  to  the  toredo.  No  extensive 
explorations  for  timber  have  yet  been  made,  but  it  is 
more  than  probable  that  forests  will  be  found  which 
will  place  timbering  and  lumbering  among  the  lead- 
ing industries  of  Alaska. 


THE  SEAL  LEASE. 


II 7 

Sufficient  has  been  said  in  this  work  about  the 
necessity  of  protecting  the  fnr-seal  to  imply  some- 
thing of  the  value  of  this  source  of  Government 
revenue,  an  important  element  of  American  trade 
and  industry.  It  is  the  second  product  of  the  country 
in  assessed  value,  fish  coming  first,  while  mining  at 
present  stands  third.  The  fish  valries  include, 
besides  the  actual  pack,  the  bone,  oil,  ivory  and 
other  products  of  the  fish  and  amphibia. 

Secretary  Windom  has  awarded  the  Seal  Fisheries 
lease  for  the  next  twenty  3^ears  to  the  North  Anier-  t 
ican  Commercial  Company  of  San  Francisco.  That 
much  capital  in  the  country  was  interested  in  the 
great  Alaska  investment  is  shown  by  the  fact  that 
twelve  bids  were  pi-esented  byr  nine  separate  and  dis- 
tinct companies,  the  successful  corporation  putting  in 
three  of  these. 

The  directory  of  the  Company  which  is  about  to 
supplant  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company,  consists 
of  Lloyd  Tevis,  Henry  Cowell,  Mathias  Mayer  of 
San  Fkancisco,  and  Albert  Miller  of  Oakland,  and  D. 
O.  Mills,  now  of  New  York,  is  an  interested  party. 
Of  the  three  bids  of  the  North  American  Commer- 
cial Company,  the  first  offered  $55,200  annual  rental, 
$2  revenue  tax  and  $8  75  bonus  for  each  sealskin,  or 
the  bidder  was  willing  to  pay  in  addition  to  the  rent 
45  per  cent  of  all  receipts  from  the  sale  of  sealskins. 
This,  it  was  claimed,  woiild  net  the  Government  at 
least  $8  per  skin.  As  a second  alternative,  this 
company  offered  to  pay  10  per  cent  more  than  any 
other  bidder,  but  wanted  the  Government  not  to 
restrict  the  annual  kill  to  less  than  100,000  seals. 
The  third  bid  offered  $57,100  rental,  $2  revenue  tax, 
$8  25  bonus  and  50  cents  a gallon  for  oil. 


Il8  ACCEPTED  PROPOSAL. 

Their  second  was  the  bid  accepted  by  Secretary 
Windoin  and  the  full  text  of  this  proposal  was  as 
follows: 

“Now,  therefore,  the  North  American  Commercial 
Company,  a corporation  duly  organized  and  existing 
under  and  by  virtue  of  the  laws  of  the  State  of  Cali- 
fornia, in  the  United  States,  and  having  its  principal 
place  of  business  in  the  city  and  county  of  San 
Francisco,  in  the  said  State  of  California,  all  of 
whose  stockholders  and  Directors  are  citizens  of  the 
United  States,  and  its  officers,  and  some  of  the 
Directors,  being  familiar  with  the  fur  business  and 
the  taking  and  preserving  of  skins  of  fur-bearing 
animals  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  makes  the  following 
proposal  or  bid  for  the  exclusive  right  to  take  fur- 
seals  upon  the  islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George,  in 
the  Territory  of  Alaska,  for  a term  of  twenty  years, 
from  and  after  the  ist  day  of  May,  1890,  and  to  send 
a vessel  or  vessels  to  the  said  islands  for  the  skins 
of  such  seals,  the  same  being  made  under  and  in 
accordance  and  subject  to  the  terms,  provisions,  lim- 
itations and  conditions  of  Chapter  III,  Title  25,  of  the 
Revised  Statutes  of  the  United  States  of  America, 
and  of  all  the  laws  of  the  United  States,  and  all  the 
decisions,  rules  and  regulations  now  in  force,  or  that 
have  been  or  may  hereafter  be  made  or  adopted  by 
the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  in  the  premises,  or  in 
relation  thereto,  and  under  and  in  accordance  with 
and  subject  to  all  of  the  terms,  provisions,  limita- 
tions and  conditions  of  the  advertisements  and  notices 
above  set  forth  and  referred  to. 

“That  is  to  saj^,  the  North  American  Commercial 
Company  propose  to  pay  and  will  pay  an  annual 
rental  of  $60,000  for  the  lease  of  said  islands  of  St. 


accepted  proposae.  I 19 

Paul  and  St.  George,  and  in  addition  to  the  revenue 
tax  or  duty  of  $2  laid  upon  each  fur-seal  skin  taken 
and  shipped  by  it  from  said  islands,  said  company 
will  pay  the  sum  of  $7  62^  for  each  and  every  seal 
skin  that  shall  be  taken  and  shipped  from  said 
islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George  under  the  provi- 
sions of  any  lease  that  it  may  obtain;  all  such  pay- 
ments to  be  made  at  such  time  and  places  and  in 
such  manner  as  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  shall 
direct. 

“In  addition  to  said  payments,  said  company  stip- 
ulates and  agrees  that  it  will  faithfully  comply  with 
all  the  laws  of  the  United  States  and  all  the  rules 
and  regulations  of  the  Treasury  Department  in  rela- 
tion to  the  taking  of  fur-seal  skins  on  said  islands; 
as  also  uith  all  the  terms,  provisions  and  conditions 
of  the  advertisements  or  notices  for  proposals  above 
set  forth  and  referred  to. 

“The  North  American  Commercial  Company  also 
proposes  in  the  event  that  it  should  obtain  said  lease 
during  the  existence  thereof  to  pay  50  cents  a gallon 
for  each  gallon  of  oil  made  from  seals  that  may  be 
taken  from  said  islands  and  sold  by  it;  also  to  furnish 
free  of  charge  to  the  native  inhabitants  of  said  islands 
of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George  annually  such  quantity 
or  number  of  dried  salmon  as  the  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury  may  direct;  also  to  furnish,  under  direction 
of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  said  native  inhabi- 
tants with  salt  and  barrels  necessary  for  preserving 
meat. 

“ It  will  also  allow  and  pay  to  the  Alaska  Com- 
mercial Company,  if  it  shall  so  demand,  a fair  and 
reasonable  price  for  all  the  buildings  or  improve- 
ments erected  or  made  on  said  islands  and  for  all 


120 


ACCEPTED  PROPOSAL. 


implements  used  by  it  in  its  business  and  that  may 
be  useful  to  said  North  American  Commercial  Com- 
pany, or  required  by  it  for  the  operation  of  its  lease, 
and  that  it  will  undertake  and  bind  itself  to  operate 
any  lease  it  may  obtain  in  the  interest  or  for  the 
benefit  of  American  citizens,  and  so  far  as  may  be 
practicable  and  consistent  with  the  interest  of  said 
company  it  will  encourage  the  dressing,  dyeing  and 
marketing  of  sealskins  within  the  United  States. 

“ This  proposal  or  bid  is  accompanied  by  a prop- 
erly certified  check  drawn  on  the  Bank  of  New  York, 
a national  bank  of  the  United  States,  payable  to  the 
order  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  in  the  sum  of 
$IOO,  ooo. 

“ Should  the  foregoing  proposal  or  bid  be  accepted, 
this  corporation  will  at  once  make,  execute,  furnish 
and  deliver  all  undertakings  and  bonds  with  good 
and  sufficient  securities  to  the  satisfaction  of  the 
United  States  and  the  Honorable  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury,  in  such  sums  and  upon  such  terms  and 
conditions  as  may  be  required  by  law  or  by  the  Hon- 
orable Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 

“In  case  this  proposal  or  bid  be  accepted,  this 
corporation  will  at  once  make  a deposit  of  United 
States  bonds  in  the  amount  and  as  required  by  law, 
and  will  at  once  do  and  perform  all  such  acts  and 
things,  and  enter  into,  make,  execute,  acknowledge, 
deliver,  deposit,  accept,  receive,  take,  register  and 
record  any  and  all  leases,  and  any  and  all  under- 
takings, bonds,  contracts,  agreements,  covenants, 
checks,  securities,  documents,  papers  or  other 
instruments,  or  writing  that  may  be  necessary  or 
proper  in  the  premises,  and  to  carry  out  any  or  all 
of  the  objects  or  purposes  herein  mentioned  or 


KILLISNOO,  NEAR  SITKA. 

From  photograph  184,  by  Winter  Photo  Co.,  Eugene,  Ore 


FISH  INDUSTRY. 


12 1 


alluded  to,  or  that  may  be  required  by  the  United 
States  or  by  the  Honorable  Secretary  of  the  Treasury 
thereof.  ” 

The  limit  of  the  annual  kill  has  always  been  fixed 
at  60,000,  and  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  has  made 
that  figure  the  limit  for  the  future,  but  it  is  intimated 
that,  after  the  first  year,  the  limit  may  be  increased 
to  100,000. 

In  May  of  the  present  year,  the  Alaska  Commer- 
cial Company’s  lease  expires,  when  the  new  lessees 
will  enter  into  possession. 

A most  important  and  constantly  growing  industry 
in  Alaska,  is  that  of  fish  canning.  In  this  land  the 
rivers  fairly  swarm  with  life.  All  the  early  naviga- 
tors and  explorers,  from  Cook  down  to  the  present 
time,  have  testified  with  astonishment  to  the  immense 
numbers  of  salmon,  cod,  halibut,  herring,  mullet, 
ulikon,  etc.  Out  of  the  teeming  rivers  and  bays  of 
Alaska,  the  world  can  be  supplied  with  salmon,  her- 
ring and  halibut  of  the  best  quality;  and  so  prodigal 
has  nature  been  in  the  supply  that  it  is  a well  authen- 
ticated fact  that  as  many  as  eleven  thousand  salmon 
have  been  taken  in  one  haul  of  the  seine. 

The  principal  fisheries  are  the  cod  and  the  salmon, 
since  these  fish  are  most  readily  prepared  for  export; 
halibut,  Arctic  smelt,  brook  trout,  flounder  and 
other  specimens  will  afford  ample  variet}"  for  local 
use.  Cod,  which  is  most  abundant  on  the  banks  of 
Kadiak  and  the  Aleutian  Archipelago,  is  a branch 
of  the  fish  industry  of  very  great  commercial  import- 
ance. Shipments  thereof  are  made  regularly  by 
every  steamer  leaving  Alaskan  points.  As  early  as 
1864  this  industry  began  to  exhibit  its  magnitude. 
In  1870  three  San  Francisco  firms  shipped  three 


122 


FISH  INDUSTRY. 


thousand  tons  of  cod  from  off  the  banks  of  the  Shu- 
magin  Islands.  The  annual  catch  of  codfish  on  the 
Alaskan  banks  is  one  thousand  six  hundred  tons, 
and  about  the  same  amount  is  taken  in  the  Ochotsk 
Sea,  all  of  which  is  marketed  in  San  Francisco.  Of 
course,  the  salmon  trade,  in  the  curing  and  canning 
of  that  fish  for  the  market,  outstrips  all  other  in 
bulk  and  importance.  The  abundance  and  unex- 
celled quality  of  Alaska  salmon  have  drawn  the 
attention  of  the  world  to  this  great  industry.  Where 
a few  Russian  weirs  and  rude  fish  traps  were  found, 
now  over  thirty  canning  establishments  are  in  pros- 
perous operation.  While  six  different  varieties  of 
salmon  swarm  in  the  rivers  and  inlets  of  Alaska, 
yet  only  two  are  used  in  the  canneries.  These  are 
known  as  the  “king”  salmon  and  the  “red”  sal- 
mon. The  king  salmon  runs  or  enters  the  rivers 
from  the  middle  of  May  till  August,  being  most 
plentiful  in  June.  Its  greatest  length  is  six  feet, 
and  greatest  weight  one  hundred  pounds.  It  is 
found  chiefly  in  the  Kasiloff  and  Kenai  Rivers  in 
Cook’s  Inlet,  also  in  the  Alamuk  River  at  the  mouth 
of  Copper  River.  The  red  salmon  runs  all  summer. 

In  salmon  canning  in  Alaska,  which  has  only 
begun  to  attract  attention,  some  idea  may  be  formed 
of  the  extent  of  this  growing  business  when  it  is 
stated  that  from  January  to  June,  1889,  the  equiva- 
lent of  seventy  vessels  of  35,655  of  tonnage  left  the 
port  of  San  Francisco  for  Alaska  in  the  interest  of 
salmon  canners.  Most  of  these  took  up  men  and 
supplies  for  the  canneries,  thus  showing  at  a glance 
the  importance  of  the  salmon  trade.  But  its  magni- 
tude can  perhaps  be  best  comprehended  when  it  is 
stated  that  the  product  for  the  season  of  1889  was 


CASES  OF  SALMON  CANNED  IN  1889. 


123 


717,000  cases,  or  34,416,000  cans.  This  does  not 
include  the  salmon  salted  and  put  up  in  barrels,  the 
pack  of  which  in  1888  amounted  to  15,000  barrels; 
in  the  last  season  it  probably  came  to  half  as  much 
again.  The  following  is  the  pack  of  the  last  six 
years  prior  to  the  season  of  1889: 

YEAR.  CASES. 

1883  ...  36,000 

1884  45,ooo 

1885  75,ooo 

1886  ...  130,000 

1887  240,000 

1888  440,000 

From  the  most  recent  and  the  best  authenticated 
sources  is  taken  the  following  list,  showing  the  pack  in 
1889,  of  each  cannery  in  operation  during  that  season: 


COMPANY. 

LOCATION. 

CASES. 

Alaska  Packing 

Nushak 

19, 000 

Alaska  Salmon  Pkg  & Fur 

Loring 

26,600 

Alaska  Improvement 

Ivarluk 

26,000 

Arctic  Pkg. 

Karluk 

42,000 

Arctic  Pkg. 

Crystal  Bay 

28,000 

Arctic  Fishing 

Cook’s  Inlet 

30,000 

Aleutian  Fishing  & Mining 

Karluk 

54,000 

Bristol  Bay  Pkg. 

Bristol  Bay 

30,000 

Baranoff  Pkg. 

Clarence  Strait 

28,000 

Bartlett  Bay  Pkg. 

Bartlett  Bay 

4,5°° 

Cape  Lees  Pkg. 

Cape  Lees 

9,800 

Chilkat  Pkg. 

Chilkat 

24,800 

Chilkat  Canning 

Pyramid  Har. 

16,000 

Chiknek  Bay 

Chiknek 

18,000 

Central  Alaska 

Kaiak  Islands 

1,800 

Glacier  Pkg. 

Stikine 

18,000 

124 


CASES  OF  SALMON  CANNED  IN  1889. 


Hume  Pkg. 

Karluk  Pkg. 

Kadiak  Pkg. 

Noria  Pkg. 

North  West  Trading  & Pkg. 
Northern  Pkg. 

Nushagak  Canning 
Pyramid  Harbor  Pkg. 

Pacific  Pkg. 

Pacific  Whaling 
Peninsula  Trading  & Fur 
Royal  Pkg. 

Russian  American  Pkg. 
Shumagin  Pkg. 

Tin  Point  Pkg. 

Western  Alaska  Pkg. 


Karluk 
Karluk 
Kadiak 
Cape  Fox 


33.000 

65.000 

31)000 

11.000 

14.000 

18.000 

28.000 

15.000 


Kenia 
Nushagak 
Pyramid  Har. 

Pr.  Wm.  Sound  5,000 
Copper  River  19,000 
Kaiak  Islands  3,50b 
Afognak  19,000 

Afognak  25,000 

Chilkat  10,000 

Tin  Point  19,000 

Ozernoi  25,000 


Total,  717,000 

As  to  the  wisdom  of  the  policy  which  resulted  in 
the  acquirement  of  Alaska  by  the  United  States, 
there  has  never  been  a dissenting  voice;  it  has  dem- 
onstrated itself.  The  resources  and  industries 
already  developed  have  proven  ample  repayment,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  geographical,  naval,  military  and 
diplomatic  advantages  accrued  and  accruing  from 
the  possession  of  the  Territory.  Russia  is  inter- 
ested with  the  United  States  in  the  issue  of  the 
present  controversy.  The  purchase  of  Alaska  from 
Russia  gave  our  country  the  then  undisputed  title  to 
the  seal  grounds  of  the  Territory  thus  transferred, 
with  all  the  appurtenances  and  hereditaments  there- 
unto belonging,  together  with  all  and  singular  the 
things  animate  or  inanimate,  of  the  land  thereon  and 
in  the  waters  beneath. 


vegetable:  life. 


!25 


By  the  terms  of  the  treaty  of  cession  the  Behring 
Sea  is  an  inland  body.  The  United  States  leases  the 
exclusive  right  to  seal  killing  in  these  waters  to  a 
private  company,  and  if  Behring  be  not  the  enclosed 
sea,  the  United  States  leases  what  it  has  no  title  to, 
and  cannot  protect  its  lessee.  Consequently  both 
Governments  become  liable  for  heavy  damages — -the 
United  States  to  its  lessee,  and  Russia  to  the  United 
States.  I do  not  propose  to  treat  of  the  infringement 
of  our  vested  rights  in  these  waters  or  of  the  intru- 
sion upon  a claim  purchased  and  developed  by  the 
United  States. 

That  the  Territory  is  rich  in  minerals  has  been 
conclusively  proven,  and,  on  the  miner’s  theory  that 
where  there  are  paying  mines  in  a certain  region 
there  are  more  of  them  yet  to  be  found,  the  prospects 
of  Alaska  as  a mining  region  are  not  only  flattering, 
but  unbounded. 

We  have  seen  the  extent  of  the  fisheries.  Despite 
the  large  number  of  canneries  in  operation,  several 
new  plants  will  begin  work  next  season  on  a pajdng 
basis.  The  vegetation  of  Alaska  is  by  no  means 
co-incident  to  that  of  a barren  and  desolate  country, 
such  as  popular  belief  accredits  it  with  being.  In 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  great  glaciers  wild  fruits 
and  berries  thrive,  and  at  Kadiak  and  Oonalaska  the 
residents  grow  many  of  the  kitchen  vegetables  known 
to  the  temperate  zone,  such  as  radishes,  lettuce, 
carrots,  onions,  cauliflower,  cabbage,  peas,  turnips, 
celery,  potatoes,  tomatoes  and  corn.  With  this 
faculty  of  vegetation  for  immigrant  plants,  it  follows 
that  the  soil  is  capable  of  producing  largely  of 
indigenous  vegetable  foods  for  the  sustenance  of 
animal  life. 


126 


INTERIOR  EXPLORATIONS. 


The  interior  of  the  country  is  not  as  little  explored 
as  people  generally  suppose.  There  is  very  little 
that  has  not  been  seen  by  prospectors,  travelers, 
adventurers  and  explorers.  Its  character  is  pretty 
well  understood  by  such  people,  and  by  Government 
officials  of  the  coast,  geodetic  and  other  survey  corps 
that  have  visited  the  Territory.  The  anomalous 
conditions  of  the  country  and  its  laws  and  the  little 
that  is  known  of  it  by  the  general  public  are  great 
drawbacks  to  the  development  of  that  section;  but 
those  who  have  been  in  a position  have  great  faith 
in  its  future,  and  believe  that  it  contains  a vastness 
of  resources  sufficient  to  make  it  an  industrial 
empire,  and  that  it  can  be  made  another  great  field 
for  the  profitable  investment  of  American  capital. 


CHAPTER  X. 


PHANTOM  CITIES  AND  MIRAGES. 


Atmospheric  Illusions  in  the  Vicinity  of  the 
Glaciers.  — Professor  Willoughby’s  Silent 
City.— Effect  of  the  Late  Sunset.— Confir- 
mations of  the  Discovery. — The  Phantom 
City  Wonder. — A Submerged  City  Beneath 
Glacier  Bay.- — The  Reality  Discovered  in 
the  Mysterious  Yukon  Region. — A Frozen 
City. 


HAT  mirages  exist  in  all  por- 
tions of  the  earth  in  hot 
weather  is  not  disputed  by 
the  most  incredulous  persons; 
but  I look  upon  it  as  a reflec- 
tion on  the  intelligence  of  the 
average  mind  when  the  public 
is  requested  to  believe  that 
the  city  of  Bristol,  England,  has  been  photographed 
on  the  top  of  the  Muir  Glacier,  or  that  two  miners, 
while  taking  a sail  on  Glacier  Bay  on  the  Fourth  of 
July  last,  had  looked  into  a pan  of  quicksilver,  and 
by  counter-reflection  from  the  water  to  the  sky  had 
discovered  a Phantom  City  which  is  supposed  to 
exist  under  the  waters  of  that  bay  which,  by  the 
way,  are  as  muddy  as  the  Missouri  River,  from  the 
detritus  consequent  upon  the  erosion  that  is  con- 
stantly taking  place  under  the  great  glacier.  In  the 
first  place,  Prof.  Willoughb}^  is  a character  who  has 


128 


WILLOUGHBY’S  MIRAGE. 


long  resided  in  Alaska,  and  is  familiar  with  ever}^ 
portion  of  it,  from  Metlakatla  to  Mt.  St.  Elias,  and 
is  selling  a picture  which  has  been  recognized  as  the 
city  of  Bristol  in  England.  From  its  appearance  it 
seems  to  have  been  taken  in  twilight  or  with  a very 
short  exposure,  and  sold  to  Prof.  Willoughby  as  a 
dry  plate,  the  old  gentleman  being  something  of  an 
amateur  photographer.  There  is  no  doubt  in  my 
mind  but  that  some  humorist  furnished  the  Professor 
with  his  dry  plates  and  run  this  in  as  a glacial  joke. 
I have  implicit  confidence  in  the  integrity  of  the 
Professor,  as  he  is  well  known  in  Alaska  as  an 
honest  man;  but  having  left  civilization  thirty  years 
or  more  ago,  and  having  chosen  the  wilds  of  Alaska 
for  his  home,  he  has  become  a simple  child  of  nature, 
and  is  recognized  as  such  in  all  parts  of  the  Terri- 
tory. He  has  never  seen  a locomotive,  and  is  as  fair 
a sample  of  credulous  humanity  as  one  would  meet 
in  a lifetime,  and  the  very  man  upon  whom  a practi- 
cal joke  could  easily  be  perpetrated.  Photography 
is  a pastime  with  him,  and  his  roving  mountain  trips 
are  reAvarded  by  some  rare  views  which  more  timid 
artists  would  fail  to  procure. 

Mirages  in  the  glacier  regions  are  of  frequent 
occurrence  in  pleasant  weather,  and  as  the  sun  does 
not  set  before  nine  o’clock  during  June  and  July, 
some  charming  views  are  obtained  at  or  about  that 
hour.  During  my  trip  on  the  “Ancon”  a great 
mirage  was  visible  in  Glacier  Bay  when  the  steam- 
ship was  eight  or  ten  miles  south  of  the  Pacific 
Glacier,  and  what  seemed  to  be  a block  of  large 
white  buildings;  the  reflection  from  the  two  great 
glaciers  stood  out  upon  the  northern  horizon.  Beau- 
tifully formed  spires,  apparently  three  or  four  hun- 


PROF  WILLOUGHBY’S  “SILENT  CITY,”  MUIR  GLACIER. 

Said  to  have  been  photographed  June  21,  1889,  by  the  kind  permission  of  L.  B.  I1  rench. 


WILLOUGHBY’S  MIRAGE. 


129 


dred  feet  high,  reached  above  the  buildings.  The 
doors,  windows,  streets  and  gardens  appeared  to  be 
visible,  but  this  mirage  was  like  those  of  the  great 
desert.  It  was  general  in  all  its  characteristics,  and 
not  at  all  like  Prof.  Willoughby’s  alleged  reflection 
or  shadow  of  a city,  which  must  of  necessity  be  more 
than  three  or  four  thousand  miles  away.  The  mirage 
witnessed  bjr  the  passengers  of  the  “Ancon”  was 
like  those  witnessed  on  the  great  deserts  of  the  sink 
of  the  Humboldt  and  Carson  Rivers,  in  Death  Valley, 
and  in  many  portions  of  San  Bernardino  and  San 
Diego  Counties,  California.  It  is  a frequent  and 
almost  daily  occurrence  in  the  summer  to  witness 
representations  of  objects  in  the  air  of  the  deserts,  of 
trains  of  emigrants,  men  or  Indians  on  horseback, 
droves  of  horses  and  cattle,  beautiful  gardens,  lakes, 
rivers  and  waterfalls,  with  rank  vegetation,  and  upon 
reaching  the  spot  nothing  is  found  but  a barren, 
sandy  desert  which  has  been  reflected  through  its 
remarkable  atmospheric  condition  from  the  bunches  of 
greasewood  and  sagebrush,  as  a beautiful  panorama. 

Two  gentlemen,  Robert  Christie  and  Robert  Pat- 
terson, have  signed  the  following  card  which  proved 
the  existence  of  a mirage  in  front  of  the  great  Muir 
Glacier,  which  confirms  what  I have  said  in  regard 
to  mirages  in  general,  but  has  no  reference  to  such 
silent  cities  as  Prof.  Willoughby  claims  to  have 
photographed  over  a year  previous,  and  to  have  pro- 
duced the  city  of  Bristol,  England. 

Bartlett  Bay  Cannery,  Aug.  22,  1889. 

Robert  Christie  and  Robert  Patterson,  in  the  pres- 
ence of  Lamar  B.  French,  Charles  R.  Lord,  R.  Wil- 
loughby and  Minor  W.  Bruce,  make  the  following 
statement,  to  wit: 


130 


Willoughby’s  mirage. 


“On  the  2d  of  July,  1889,  while  sailing  from  the 
main  or  Glacier  Bay,  just  south  of  Willoughby 
Island,  about  five  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  sud- 
denly saw  rising  out  against  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tains what  appeared  to  be  houses,  churches  and 
other  huge  structures.  It  appeared  to  be  a city  of 
extensive  proportions,  perhaps  of  15,000  or  20,000 
inhabitants.  We  watched  the  apparition  for  a long 
time,  and  think  it  was  visible  for  an  hour  or  more. 

“We  further  aver  that  at  that  time  we  had  never 
heard  of  what  is  called  the  Silent  City,  or  that  Prof. 
Willoughby  had  photographed  it.  We  are  satis- 
fied that  it  was  a mirage  from  its  position  and 
appearance.  ” 

The  certificate  I do  not  doubt  is  true  in  every  par- 
ticular; but  I am  quite  sure  they  would  not  make 
an  affidavit  that  the  picture  of  the  Silent  City  which 
Prof.  Willoughby  has  issued  has  ever  been  seen  by 
them  or  by  any  one  else,  and  from  my  personal  knowl- 
edge of  Prof.  Willoughby,  I am  equally  as  sure  that 
he  will  not  say  he  ever  saw  in  the  sky  the  picture  he 
is  selling  as  the  Silent  City. 

The  mirage  seen  by  the  gentlemen  in  Glacier  Bay 
is  without  doubt  the  one  seen  by  myself  and  the  pas- 
sengers of  the  “Ancon.”  I have  a photograph  of 
one  of  these  mirages  witnessed  by  one  hundred  pas- 
sengers, which  is  published  in  this  book,  and  I can- 
not but  express  the  sentiment  that  the  scenery, 
inhabitants  and  glaciers  of  Alaska  are  sufficiently 
wonderful  and  beautiful  to  the  seeker  after  the 
marvelous  and  curious,  without  presenting  Prof. 
Willoughby’s  picture  as  a fact,  when  it  should  be 
treated  as  a joke,  to  show  how  easily  a humorist 
might  impose  upon  an  honest  but  simple-minded  old 


MYSTERIOUS  REFLECTIONS. 


I3I 

man,  who  has  been  isolated  for  over  thirty  years  from 
this  world  of  civilization  and  improvement. 

The  next  Phantom  City  wonder  was  first  published 
in  the  Daily  Transcript  of  Nevada  City.  It  goes  on 
to  say  that  James  O’Dell  left  Nevada  City  last  April 
to  look  after  a mine,  located  in  Alaska  a year  ago  by 
D.  H.  Jackson.  Mr.  O’Dell  said  to  his  room-mate, 
Robert  Renfrew,  that  he  had  investigated  the  Silent 
City  controversy  and  gave  the  following  description 
of  his  investigations: 

“We  set  sail  in  a hired  boat  on  the  ist  of  July, 
early  in  the  morning,  with  a full  stock  of  provisions 
and  other  necessaries.  By  ‘ we  ’ I mean  Bill  Thomas 
—the  old  Hale  & Norcross  man — and  two  other  men 
unknown  to  you  Idaho  men. 

“We  had  many  adventures  in  going  up,  but  what 
I want  to  tell  you  is  what  I think  we  discovered  in 
regard  to  the  Silent  City,  or  mirage.  You  know 
that  during  the  debris  war  I was  up  at  Omega,  in 
Nevada  County,  California.  Well,  there  I learned 
a trick  that  I was  determined  to  make  use  of  here. 
In  watching  for  the  anti-debris  spies,  we  used  to  pour 
a few  pounds  of  quicksilver  into  a gold-pan,  place  it 
on  a rock  in  an  open  place  and  then  peer  into  it  with 
a magnifying  glass.  In  this  way  we  could  detect 
anything  that  moved  on  any  road  or  in  any  place  for 
miles  around.  The  face  of  the  country  and  all  upon 
it  was  first  reflected  upon  the  heavens  or  upper 
stratum  of  air,  and  thence  down  upon  the  pan  of 
quicksilver,  where  we  could  scan  it  with  our  glasses. 

“Well,-  when  we  arrived  at  the  glacier,  we  cruised 
about  for  a day  or  two,  but  could  see  nothing.  We 
feared  that  we  had  not  found  the  right  place,  and 
were  about  moving  on,  when  there  came  a favorable 


132 


THE  SUBMERGED  CITY. 


calm  and  we  tried  the  gold-pan  and  the  quicksilver. 
At  once  we  saw  depicted  on  the  surface  of  the  bright 
metal  what  appeared  to  be  the  ruins  of  a large  city. 
There  were  the  remains  of  walls,  towers  and  many 
large  buildings,  but  all  were  seen  in  a wavering  sort 
of  way.  We  saw  enough,  however,  to  convince  us 
that  the  city  was  at  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  was  thence 
imaged  on  the  clouds  and  then  reflected  down  upon 
the  quicksilver.  It  may  be  that,  in  certain  favor- 
able stages  of  the  weather,  the  image  of  the  sunken 
city  is  thrown  upon  the  glacier,  where  it  resembles 
a mirage. 

“ Having  decided  in  our  minds  that  the  city  was 
one  at  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  we  spent  a whole  day 
getting  on  the  top  of  the  glacier,  and  at  great  risk 
ventured  near  to  its  perpendicular  face.  There  we 
erected  a mirror  upon  a sort  of  tripod,  placing  it  at  a 
height  of  about  five  feet,  facing  the  bay,  and  using 
our  glasses,  saw  in  it  the  image  of  the  same  ruins 
seen  on  the  quicksilver  when  we  were  down  on  the 
water.  We  could  also  get  a part  of  the  city  in  our 
pan,  when  tried,  on  the  surface  of  the  glacier. 

“We  were  not  a scientific  expedition,  but  in  our 
rough  way  we  were  able  to  satisfy  ourselves  that 
what  is  called  the  ‘ Silent  City,’  is  in  reality  a 
sunken  city  resting  at  the  bottom  of  Glacier  Bay.” 

I.  W.  Taber,  the  reliable  photographer,  has  shown 
his  usual  enterprise  in  these  matters,  and  has  sent  a 
competent  artist  out  with  his  pan  of  quicksilver  and 
thinks  he  has  corroborated  the  theory  of  a Phantom 
City  being  seen  under  the  dirty  waters* of  Glacier 
Bay,  seven  hundred  feet  below  the  surface,  by  simply 
looking  into  a pan  of  quicksilver  with  a magnifying 
glass. 


TABER'S  SILENT  CITY,  GLACIER  BAY, 

Said  to  have  been  photographed  in  July,  1889. 


A PERILOUS  TRIP. 


I33 


The  photographers  and  scientific  men  have  also 
expressed  the  opinion,  almost  unanimously,  that 
Prof.  Willoughby  saw  the  picture  of  Bristol  on  the 
crest  of  the  Muir  Glacier  just  as  surely  as  Mr.  O’Dell 
saw  the  Phantom  City  under  seven  hundred  feet  of 
muddy  water. 

Inasmuch  as  I have  taken  pains  to  give  the  imagi- 
nary wonders  of  Alaska  to  the  public,  it  is  a source 
of  pleasure  to  present  the  latest  in  the  way  of 
Silent  and  Phantom  Cities.  From  the  telegraphic 
news  published  in  the  San  Francisco  Examiner , it 
seems  that  a man  named  George  Kershon  joined  a 
party  of  miners  who  were  bent  on  exploring  the  ice- 
bound secrets  of  Alaska.  In  an  interview  Mr. 
Kershon  said: 

‘‘In  the  summer  of  1888,  I was  one  of  the  party 
who  left  here  to  go  north  prospecting.  At  Juneau 
we  purchased  a small  sloop  to  take  our  outfit  up  to 
the  Yukon,  which  we  reached  after  many  weeks  of 
toil.  I disagreed  with  my  partners  and  engaged  an 
Indian  canoe  with  two  Indians,  and  started  to  pros- 
pect along  an  unknown  fork  of  the  Yukon  River. 
We  had  a terrible  time.  The  stream  narrowed 
in  between  high  cliffs  and  shot  with  dizzy  swift- 
ness down  the  gulches,  making  it  necessary  to 
tow  the  canoe  by  means  of  a line  from  the  banks,  two 
doing  this  while  the  third  man  rested.  Progress  was 
necessarily  slow,  and  for  many  days  we  toiled  before 
the  first  range  of  cliffs  and  mountains  was  passed. 
Once  a hundred-foot  water-fall  barred  us,  and  it  took 
three  days  to  get  around  it. 

“ After  this  it  was  a bit  easier.  The  river  broad- 
ened out  and  the  country  was  more  level.  The 
banks  were  well  wooded  and  game  was  plentiful. 


134 


A PERILOUS  TRIP. 


We  kept  on  like  this,  always  going  north,  when, 
after  six  weeks,  a range  of  mountains  was  sighted;  I 
believed  this  to  be  the  head  of  the  river,  and  pressed 
on  to  reach  it  before  the  cold  weather  set  in.  Snow 
was  now  falling  very  often,  and  it  was  evident  that 
the  short  summer  was  nearly  done.  At  length  we 
reached  the  wild  country  again,  and  the  stream  which 
had  been  sub-dividing  itself  into  lesser  ones  soon 
became  too  difficult  to  navigate.  This  was  almost  at 
the  foot  of  the  range  of  mountains  spoken  of.  Here 
we  determined  to  camp  for  the  winter,  and  good 
quarters  were  found.  Everything  was  made  snug, 
as  the  weather  up  there  is  something  awful,  but  we 
were  in  a deep  ravine,  overhung  by  high  cliffs,  which 
broke  the  fury  of  the  winds,  and  the  best  was  made 
of  it.  Game  was  plentiful,  and  large  quantities  of 
elk  and  deer  were  shot  and  frozen  for  use  through  the 
long  winter  months. 

“ Before  long  the  cold  came,  and  at  times  it  was 
impossible  to  stir  from  cover;  especially  was  this  the 
case  when  the  terrible  winds  blew.  At  other  times 
it  was  fairly  comfortable,  although  the  lack  of  sun 
made  it  gloomy  enough.  Toward  the  end  of  winter  it 
began  to  get  lighter  and  the  gales  were  less  frequent. 

“ One  day  I determined  to  try  and  scale  one  of  the 
mountains  near  us,  as  I got  so  tired  and  weary 
with  being  penned  up  in  such  a confined  place.  This 
idea  I put  before  the  Indians.  One  of  them  said  he 
would  go  with  me;  the  other  would  not  risk  it,  so  he 
was  left  in  camp.  A storm  shortly  arose,  blowing 
heavily  for  three  days,  but  as  soon  as  the  weather  had 
settled,  the  Indian  and  myself  started  off  on  our  trip. 

“We  went  right  up  the  line  of  the  frozen  river, 
which,  being  a solid  mass  of  ice,  made  a good  road- 


THE  LATEST  WONDER. 


*35 


way.  Following  this  for  about  twenty  miles,  at  a 
pretty  steep  rise,  we  reached  a plateau  between  the 
foothills  and  high  range.  Here  the  stream  ended, 
and  we  started  to  climb  one  of  the  big  hills.  After  a 
lot  of  hard  work  we  reached  a point  near  the  summit. 
A wonderful  view  was  had  from  here,  but  the  strang- 
est thing  was  a city  in  one  of  the  valleys  below. 
You  inay  depend  upon  it,  I was  surprised  to  see  it. 
At  first  I thought  it  was  some  fantastic  arrangement 
of  ice  and  snow  which  had  assumed  the  form  of  a city, 
but  examination  with  the  glass  showed  that  such  was 
not  the  case,  it  being  too  regular  in  appearance.  It 
was  a city  sure  enough.  Determined  to  see  more  of 
it,  I commenced  to  work  downwards,  although  the 
Indian  was  rather  frightened,  he  evidently  not  con- 
sidering it  ‘ good  medicine.  ’ After  several  hours  of 
hard  work  I reached  the  outskirts  of  this  mysterious 
city,  and  found  that  the  place  was  laid  out  in  streets, 
with  blocks  of  strange-looking  buildings,  what 
appeared  to  be  mosques,  towers,  ports,  etc.,  and 
every  evidence  of  having  been  built  by  art.  The 
whole  was  not  of  solid  ice,  though  it  seemed  to  be, 
but  blows  from  a hatchet  on  one  of  the  walls  dis- 
closed the  fact  that  beneath  this  barrier  of  ice  was 
some  sort  of  building  material.  It  looked  to  be 
wood,  but  of  a stone-like  hardness  and  apparently 
petrified.  The  silence  around  the  place  was  some- 
thing ghostly.  Not  the  slightest  sound  broke  the 
awful  stillness  of  the  place  which,  added  to  the  weird 
look  of  the  empty  streets,  made  it  gruesome  enough. 
I soon  got  tired  of  investigating  the  city,  as  the 
streets  were  blocked  in  many  places  with  huge 
masses  of  ice,  rendering  passage  almost  impossible. 
The  Indian,  too,  became  uneasy,  and  we  started  on 


136 


THE  MYSTERIOUS  CITY. 


the  return  trip,  reaching  home  the  next  day,  tired 
but  satisfied  that  we  had  been  the  first  men  to  gaze 
on  that  silent  city  for  centuries. 

“ After  spring  broke  I made  some  strikes  in  nug- 
get gold  at  the  head-waters  of  the  river,  working 
with  the  Indians  through  the  summer  months,  leav- 
ing camp  for  the  Yukon  about  the  end  of  August. 
We  reached  that  river  all  right,  the  trip  down  being 
easy,  and  in  due  time  I got  back  to  Juneau,  where  I 
took  the  steamer  for  the  south. 

“It  was  while  I was  at  Juneau  I saw  a newspaper 
with  an  account  of  the  mirage  seen  at  Muir  Glacier. 
I did  not  make  an}r  allusions  to  this,  though,  as  I 
did  not  think  any  one  would  believe  me,  but  I am 
positive  that  the  mirage  of  Muir  Glacier  is  the  reflec- 
tion of  the  frozen  city  found  by  me.  In  accounting 
for  the  presence  of  this  wonderful  reflected  city  I’ll 
have  to  leave  to  abler  heads.  You  might  ask  me 
how  the  ruins  of  big  cities  came  in  the  interior  of 
Central  America.  They  are  there,  but  who  built 
them  nobody  knows.  Perhaps  at  one  time  it  was 
not  so  cold  north  as  it  is  now.” 

This  ended  Mr.  Kershon’s  story,  told  with  an  air 
of  truth  which  made  it  evident  that  he  had  truly  seen 
the  things  he  said  he  did. 

The  public  have  been  shown  the  entire  history  of 
the  Silent  City,  the  Phantom  City  and  the  reflected- 
city  business  last  mentioned,  and  they  may  draw 
their  own  conclusions.  That  mirages  exist  in 
Alaska  as  well  as  on  the  great  deserts,  and  are  easily 
accounted  for  by  the  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  is 
a fact;  but  a photograph  of  Bristol,  another  by  Mr. 
Taber’s  artist  and  still  another  picture  shown  in  a 
pan  of  quicksilver,  with  this  last  candidate  for  fame 


MIRAGE  OF  MUIR  GLACIER,  SEEN  FROM  GLACIER  BAY 

On  July  23,  1889,  from  a photograph  by  Miss  Maude  Badlam 


THE  MYSTERIOUS  CITY. 


*37 


as  the  discoverer  of  a real  deserted  city,  I think  will 
rank  high  among  Baron  Munchausen’s  fairy  tales, 
and  the  public  who  are  easily  amused  will  doubtless 
look  upon  these  pleasantries  from  their  own  stand- 
point in  accordance  with  the  intelligence  they  possess 
and  in  the  extent  of  their  credulity. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


CHINOOK  JARGON. 


Language  of  the  Indians.  — Different  Dia- 
lects.— The  Traders  Introduce  a Common 
Jargon,  Which  Nearly  all  Tribes  Have 
Adopted. — The  Chinook  Used  as  Paar  South 
as  Oregon.  - — ■ Examples  for  the  Use  of 
Tourists. 


the  native  races  of 
region  comprehended  as 


A - 

H course 

the 

Alaska  had  a distinctive  lan- 
guage of  their  own  prior  to  the 
advent  of  foreigners  in  their 
midst,  though  there  were  un- 
doubtedly different  dialects  in 
each  tribe,  dependent  on  local- 
ity, surroundings  and  family 
divisions — provincialisms,  so  to  speak.  But  in  the 
past  century  these  languages  have  been  so  corrupted 
by  certain  forms  of  lingual  and  Philological  contact 
that  they  have  lost  their  distinctive  character  and 
become  condensed  into  a sort  of  jargon  general 
among  all  the  aborigines  of  the  region.  Some  of  the 
contacts  leading  to  this  revolution  of  tongues  were 
the  Russian  traders,  French  vo3mgers,  trappers, 
hunters,  sailors  and  whalers  causing  the  introduction 


CHINOOK  JARGON. 


*39 


of  the  Chinook  jargon,  used  as  a trade  language  for 
many  y^ears  in  British  Columbia  and  on  the  coast  of 
Oregon  and  Washington  and  still  the  principal 
linguistic  medium  between  natives  and  whites.  I 
give  herewith  a few  examples  of  some  of  the  jargon 
words  in  most  common  use.  T.  N.  Hibbeu  & Co., 
of  Victoria,  have  published  a book  entitled,  “Dic- 
tionary of  the  Chinook  Jargon,  or  Indian  Trade 
Language  of  the  North  Pacific  Coast,”  and  tourists 
will  find  it  an  interesting  study  to  provide  themselves 
with  one  of  them.  It  is  a peculiarity  of  Indians  all 
over  the  western  continent  that  it  is  difficult  and  next 
to  impossible  for  them  to  give  the  sound  of  the  letter 
“r,”  they  almost  invariably,  where  it  occurs,  giving 
it  the  sound  of  “ 1.”  It  is  also  the  habit  of  Indians 
to  give  the  sound  of  “p”  for  the  pronunciation  of 
“f, ” as  “pish,”  for  “fish.”  A few  of  the  principal 
words  are  selected  as  follows: 


Admiration,  hwah. 
American,  Boston. 
Apple,  le  pome. 

Axe,  la-liash. 

Bargain,  mahkook 
Basket,  opekwan. 

Bear  (black)  chet-woof;  i 
“ (grizzly)  siam. 
Bread,  piah  sapolill. 
Biscuit,  lebiskwee. 
Blanket,  paseesie. 
By-and-by,  winapie. 

Cat,  pusspuss. 

Cheat  (to),  la  lah. 

Cry  (to),  cly. 


All,  kon-a-way. 

Anger,  sol-leks. 

Arrow,  ka-li-tan. 

Bad,  mesahchie  or  peshack. 
Boat,  boat. 

Beads,  kamosuk. 

;-woot. 

Bottle,  labooti. 

Berries,  olillie;  olallie. 

Bit  or  Dime,  bit. 

Buffalo,  moosmoos. 

Canoe,  canim. 

Copper,  pil  chickamin. 
Chief,  ty-ee. 

Dark  or  darkness, polaklie. 


140 


CHINOOK 


JARGON. 


Day,  sun. 

Dear,  hyas  mahkook. 

Dog,  kamooks. 

Deer,  mowitsh. 

Dollar,  dolla  or  tahla. 

Dime,  bit  or  mit. 

Drunk,  pahtlum. 

Do  (to),  mamook. 

Fight  with  fists,  mamook  pukpuk. 

Fish,  pish. 

Fingers,  le  doo. 

Fork,  la  poosshet. 

Flour,  sapolill. 

Gamble, mamook  itlokum.  Frying-pan,  le  poel. 

God,  saghalie  tyee. 

Ghost,  skookum. 

Gun,  musket,  sukwalal. 

Good,  kloshe. 

Heaven,  saghalie  illahie. 

Hair,  yakso. 

House,  house. 

Hat,  seahpo;  seahpult. 

I,  nika. 

Hungry,  olo. 

Knife,  opitsah. 

Jealous,  sick  tumtum. 

Daughter,  lieehee. 

Language,  lk  lang. 

Look  out,  kloshe  nanitsh. 

Little,  tenas. 

Money,  ehickamin. 

Meat,  itlwillie. 

Night,  polaklie. 

Mosquito,  melakwa. 

One,  ikt. 

No,  not,  wake. 

Two",  mokst. 

Seven,  sinnamokst. 

Three,  klone. 

Bight,  stotekin. 

Four,  lakit. 

Nine,  kwaist. 

Five,  kwinnum. 

Ten,  tahtlelum. 

Six,  taghum. 

Bleven,  tahtleum  pe  ikt. 

One  hundred,  ikt  tukamonuk. 

Twenty,  mokst  tahtlelum. 

Old,  oleman. 

People,  tilikum. 

Pistol,  tenas  musket. 

Rain,  snass. 

River,  chuck. 

Ship,  ship. 

Sea,  salt  chuck. 

Silver,  t’kope  ehickamin. 

Skin,  skin. 

Small,  tenas. 

Snow,  snow;  cole  snass. 

Steal  (to),  kapswalla. 

Stone,  stone. 

Strawberries,  amotee. 

Sugar,  le  sook;  shughae. 

Thank  you,  mahsie. 

Tobacco,  kinootl;  kinoos. 

CHINOOK  JARGON. 


141 


Very,  hyas. 

Water,  chuck. 
Wicked,  mesahchie. 
Woman,  Klootchman. 


Wait,  winapie. 

We,  nesika. 

Witchcraft,  tamahnous. 
Wind,  wind. 


Yes,  nawitka;  ah-ah;  e-eh.  You,  Your,  Yours,  mesika. 
Young,  tenas. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


HOW  TO  GET  THERE. 


From  San  Francisco  to  Alaska. — The  Different 
Routes  Open. — Information  as  to  Connec- 
tions.— ■ Schedule  of  Steamer  Movements.— 
Things  that  Will  Come  Handy  on  the  Trip 
and  Bits  of  General  Information. 


this  comparatively  untraveled 
region  is  being  attracted  the 
attention  of  the  whole  travel- 
ing public  and  of  that  class  of 
tourists,  the  student  and  the 
worker,  who  seek  their  relax- 
ation and  recreation  amidst 
the  grandeurs  and  beauties  of 
nature.  To  such  the  claims 
of  Alaska  appeal  directly.  The  thousands  who, 
during  the  two  seasons  past,  have  visited  this  remote 
corner,  attest  the  popularity  of  the  excursion  and 
warrant  the  belief  that  Alaska,  for  seasons  to  come, 
will  rival  an}'  of  those  numerous  sections  of  the  globe 
which  have  heretofore  held  undisputed  sway  in  the 
affections  and  admiration  of  the  lover  and  the  stu- 
dent; the  two  classes  who  seek  nature  in  nature’s 
strongholds.  It  is  with  the  idea  and  the  hope  of 
assisting  some  few  of  those  who  may  be  about  to  take 


TRANSPARENT  FLOATING  ICE,  IN  TAKOU  INLET. 
From  photograph  7732,  by  Partridge,  Portland,  Ore. 


THE  VARIOUS  ROUTES. 


J43 


this  northern  flight,  that  I open  this  chapter  with  a 
few  suggestions  of  “ How  to  get  there.” 

During  the  winter  and  early  spring  months,  two 
steamers  ply  between  Puget  Sound,  Sitka  and  way 
ports,  and  as  they  take  nearly  a month  to  make  the 
round  trip,  though  it  is  not  the  best  season  for  view- 
ing these  wild  stormy  regions,  many  take  this  time 
to  see  Alaska.  The  excursion  season  of  1S90  opens 
on  the  2d  of  June  and  with  the  opening  a favorite 
steamer,  the  “Queen,”  makes  her  initial  voyage  in 
these  waters.  The  “Queen”  is  a steamer  of  three 
thousand  tons,  has  accommodations  for  two  hundred 
and  fifty  first-class  passengers  and  has  quite  recently 
been  refitted  with  all  modern  steamship  comforts  and 
is  lighted  throughout  with  electricity.  The  two 
other  boats  upon  the  excursion  route  are  the  fine 
large  iron  steamships,  “George  W.  Elder”  and  the 
“ City  of  Topeka.” 

From  San  Francisco  two  routes  are  open  to  the 
tourist  as  far  as  Tacoma,  Washington,  whence  all 
must  proceed  one  way.  The  first  of  these  is  by 
water  up  the  coast  to  Port  Townsend,  there  to  con- 
nect with  the  Alaska  steamer  which  is  to  bear  you  on 
your  winding  way  to  the  north.  The  other  route  lies 
over  the  California  and  Oregon  railroad  through  the 
beautiful  scenery  of  the  Shasta  region  and  Oregon, 
to  Portland,  thence  by  steamer  via  the  Columbia 
River  to  Victoria  and  Port  Townsend,  or  from  Portland 
by  rail  to  Tacoma.  For  overland  passengers  via  the 
Northern  Pacific,  connection  is  made  with  the  Alaska 
steamers  at  Tacoma,  and  when  coming  overland  by 
the  Canadian  Pacific,  the  steamer  is  met  at  Victoria. 
Connection  is  made  at  Port  Townsend  with  all  the 
Alaska  steamers  by  those  from  San  Francisco,  after 


I44 


WHAT  TO  TAKE. 


the  latter  have  touched  at  Victoria,  B.  C.  Advan- 
tage of  the  latter  arrangement  is  often  taken  to  visit 
Victoria  while  the  steamer  proceeds  to  Port  Town- 
send, her  passengers  joining  her  when  she  returns 
on  the  way  north. 

One  should  be  provided  with  warm  clothing  and  all 
such  as  he  is  not  afraid  to  spoil.  Gossamers  and 
Mackintoshes  and  such  other  protection  from  the 
rain  as  individual  taste  may  dictate  should  be  pro- 
vided, but  umbrellas  are  inconvenient  on  shipboard. 
Heavy  rubber  shoes  will  be  a comfort,  aud  with  a 
strong  Alpenstock  for  climbing,  for  ladies  and  gentle- 
men, you  have  about  all  you  require  for  a trip  to 
Alaska. 

Appended  will  be  found  the  schedule  of  steamer 
movements  for  the  season  of  1890,  with  an  approxi- 
mate table  of  dates  for  the  arrival  of  steamers  at 
various  points  and  which  will  be  of  interest  to  the 
traveler. 


Goodall,  Perkins  & Co.,  Agents, 


SAILING  DAYS  OF  STEAMERS. 


145 


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STEAMSHIP  “ CITY  OF  TOPEKA. 

Goodall,  Perkins  & Co.,  Agent. 


Approximate  Time  of  Sailings  of  Steamers  on  the  Alaska  Route. 

FROM  ALASKA — SEASON  1S9O. 


APPROXIMATE  DATES  TO  ALASKA  PORTS. 


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other  ports  (which  they  are  liable  to)  or  in  case  of  fogs  or  other  unfavorable  weather,  tides,  etc.,  these  dates  cannot  be  relied 
on.  It  is  not  unlikely  that  ports,  for  some  reason,  may  be  stopped  at  going  south  instead  of  going  north,  as  scheduled.  This 
schedule  is  made  to  give  an  approximate  idea  of  dates  when  steamers  should  be  at  the  different  ports,  providirg  all  the 
conditions  are  favorable. 


STEAMSHIP  "GEORGE  W.  ELDER,' 

Goodali,  Perkins  & Co.,  Agents. 


INDEX. 


Adornment,  native,  59. 

Alaska,  discovery  and  progress,  1, 
2,  3,  4;  company  formed  to  pur- 
chase, 4;  project  defeated  by 
treachery,  4;  purchase  by  the  IT. 
S.,  4,  5,  124;  wealth,  5;  deriva- 
tion of  name,  5;  extent,  5,  6; 
boundary,  6,  26 ; shore  line,  7 ; 
natural  divisions,  7 ; animal  life, 
97-108;  ornithology,  108  , amphi- 
bia, 109:  industries,  30,  58,  61, 
76,  77,  121,  122,  123. 

Alaska  Commercial  Co.,  97,  98. 

Alexander  Archipelago,  26. 

Aleuts,  58,  62,  63. 

Anain  Passage,  1,  22. 

Ancon,  loss  of,  26. 

Animals,  97-108. 

Annette  Island,  95,  96. 

Baranoff,  Gov.,  31,  32;  hunters 
poisoned,  31 ; castle,  31,  32. 

Bear,  100-102. 

Beaver,  104. 

Behring,  Vitus,  2;  first  expedition 
of,  2 ; second  expedition  of,  2 ; 
conclusions  of,  2 ; wreck  and  death 
of,  3. 

Bella  Bella,  25. 

Briggs,  Prof.  Horace,  44. 

Buffalo,  103. 

Burial  customs  and  places,  60,  66, 
68,  69,  70,  76,  78. 

Canneries  at  Chilkat,  29. 

Canning  industry,  121,  123. 

Canoes,  77,  78. 

Carving,  76,  77. 


Castes  and  clans,  60,  75,  76. 

Cave  burial,  68-70. 

Chatham  Strait,  31 ; Sound,  26. 
Chiefs,  choice  of,  60. 

Chilkat,  29. 

Chinook  jargon,  138-141. 
Christianity,  progress  of,  76. 
Clarence  Strait,  26,  27. 

Coal,  115. 

Cook,  Captain,  first  appearance  of, 
3;  in  Behring  Strait,  3. 

Crillon,  Mt.,  30,  48. 

Davidson  Glacier,  29,  39,  40. 

Deer,  102,  103. 

Discovery  Passage,  23. 

Distances,  table  of,  34. 

Dixon  Entrance,  26. 

Douglas  Island,  29,  113,  114. 

Duncan,  William,  92;  at  Port  Simp- 
son, 92;  methods  of,  93  ; teachings 
of,  93,  94 ; persecution  of,  94,  95 ; 
visits  Washington,  95 ; success  of, 
95,  96. 

Dundas  Island,  26. 

Early  schools,  88-90. 

Edgecumbe,  Mt.,  31. 

Education,  87 ; under  the  Russians, 
88,  89  ; after  the  transfer,  89,  90. 
Educational  Bureau  established,  89. 
Elk,  102,  103. 

Embalming,  68,  69. 

Ermine,  107. 

Eskimo,  58,  62,  64. 

Etolin,  88. 

Explorations,  Vitus  Behring,  1-3; 
Capt.  Cook,  3;  John  Muir,  37,  42, 


INDEX. 


!50 

43;  Russian,  50;  Spanish,  2,  3; 
Vancouver,  20,  21,  42;  Interior, 
12G. 

Extortion  of  shamans,  81. 
Fairweatiier,  Mt.,  30,  48. 

Field,  Kate,  40. 

Finlayson  Channel,  25. 

Fish,  121,  122. 

Fisheries  at  Killisnoo,  30 ; at  Chil- 
kat,  29. 

Fishing  grounds,  60,  61. 

Fort  Wrangell,  27,  28. 

Fuca,  Juan  de,  1;  exjdoits  of,  22 ; 

Straits  of,  19. 

Genealogy,  78. 

Glaciers,  28,  29,  35-55 ; Auk,  29,  42 ; 
Davidson,  29,  39,  40 ; Patterson,  28  ; 
Eagle,  29  ; Muir,  30,  38 ; Takou,  41 ; 
Rainbow,  41 ; of  Greenland,  38,  37, 
39,  50;  formation  of,  38;  move- 
ment of,  38,  41 ; theories  of,  35,  36 ; 
in  the  Yosemite,  50 ; on  Mt.  Shasta, 
50 ; traces  of,  37,  49,  51. 

Glacial  evidences  on  the  Pacific  Slop  j 
37,  49. 

Glacier  Bay,  30,  38, 127, 123, 131, 132. 
Government,  8,  9,  10;  Russian,  31, 
32,  63;  native,  60,  61. 

Greenland,  36.  37,  39,  50,  51. 

Graves,  70,  76,  78. 

Hostility  of  natives,  29. 

Hudson  Bay  Co.,  21,  41. 

Hunting,  104. 

Hyperboreans,  the,  58-74;  divisions 
of,  57,  58,  75 ; characteristics,  62, 
63;  food,  living,  etc.,  64. 

Ice  from  Alaska,  40. 

Icy  baths,  65. 

Indian  beliefs,  67. 

Industries,  native  manufacture,  53, 
61;  art,  53;  carving,  76,  77;  can- 
ning, 29,  121,  123;  fishing,  30, 121, 
122. 

Infant  treatment,  65. 

Inland  Passage,  19-34. 
Intermarriage,  75,  76. 

International  quarrels,  3,  4. 


Jackson,  Dr.  Sheldon,  88,  90. 

Jargon,  138-141. 

Johnstone  Strait,  23,  24. 

Juneau,  28,  90,  114;  convention  at, 
9;  gold  at,  28;  named,  28;  news- 
papers, 29. 

Kagamil,  legend  of,  70  74;  caves  of, 
63,  69,  70. 

Kane,  Dr.,  experiments  and  theories 
of,  36,  37. 

Kershon,  Geo. , 133 ; on  a perilous 
trip,  134,  135;  discovers  a large 
city,  235,  136. 

Killisnoo,  30,  31,  90. 

King’s  experiments,  37. 

Koniagas,  58,  62,  63. 

Lama  Pass,  25. 

Land  claims,  9. 

La  Perouse,  Mt.,  30. 

Laws  needed,  8-10. 

Lease  of  Seal  Fisheries,  8,  117-120. 

Legend  of  Kagamil,  70-74. 

Loring,  26. 

Lynn  Channel,  29,  30,  39-42. 

Mammoths,  97-100;  remains  of,  99, 

100. 

Manual  training,  90,  91. 

Marriage  customs,  59,  60,  64,  75,  76. 

Medicine-men,  80,  64. 

Metlakatla  Mission,  26,  92-94. 

Metlakatla,  New,  26,  90,  95,  96. 

Minerals,  113-116. 

Mining  at  Douglas  Is.,  113;  Baranoff 
Is.,  113;  Juneau,  114;  Silver  Bow 
Basin,  114;  Sheep  Creek,  114; 
Treadwell,  113;  Kenai  Peninsula, 
115;  Admiralty  Is.,  115;  Cook’s 
Inlet,  115. 

Mirages,  127-137. 

Missionaries  and  mission  societies, 
89,  92-96. 

Moose,  102,  103. 

Moraines,  52-55  ; definition  of,  52 ; 
on  the  Pacific  Slope,  52,  53 ; origin 
of,  53 ; in  New  England,  54. 

Morrow’s  speech,  7. 

Mountains,  principal  peaks,  8. 


INDEX. 


151 


Muir,  Prof.  John,  37,  42,  43;  experi- 
ments of,  40,  41,  43;  theories  of 
99,  110. 

Muir  Glacier,  30,  38,  43 ; description 
of,  43-48 ; extent,  48 ; discharge 
of,  49. 

Native  Races,  56-74. 

New  Metlakatla,  26,  27 ; founding 
of,  95. 

Nootka,  surrender  of,  20. 

Nordenskiold’s  theories,  50,  51. 

O’Dell,  Jas.,  in  search  of  the  Phan- 
tom City,  131,  132. 

Ornithology,  108. 

Patterson  Glacier,  28. 

Peril  Strait,  31. 

Phantom  City,  the,  131,  132. 

Polygamy,  60,  64. 

Portland,  Or.,  11,  12. 

Port  Townsend,  Wash.,  15,  16. 

Potlach,  85,  86. 

Prince  Frederick  Sound,  28. 

Punishments,  61,  67. 

Queen  Charlotte  Islands,  22 ; Sound, 
22,  23,  24. 

Reforms  needed,  8-10. 

Religion,  79,  80,  88,  91,  92,  95,  96. 

Religious  schools  and  training,  S9,  91, 
92,  96. 

Rights  of  the  people,  8-10. 

Rousseau,  Gen.  L.  H.,  87, 

Russians,  the,  progress,  1,  2;  con- 
quests, 2;  avarice,  3;  at  Oona- 
laska,  3 ; despotism,  3,  63 ; explor- 
ations, 50. 

Russian  schools,  88,  89. 

Russian- American  Fur  Co.,  3,  92; 
protest  against,  4. 

Saginaw,  Jake,  30. 

Salmon,  121,  122;  pack,  123,  124. 

San  Juan  Islands,  19. 

Saranac,  loss  of  the,  23. 

Sclilikoff,  Gov.,  88. 

Schools,  88-90. 

Schwatka,  Lieut.,  39. 

Seals,  108,  109. 

Seal  lease,  8,  117-120. 


Seattle,  Wash.,  14,  15. 

Sectarianism,  95,  96. 

Seward,  Secretary,  4. 

Seymour  Narrows,  23. 

Shamans  and  Shamanism,  66,  79, 
80-85. 

Shaman  jugglery,  66. 

Shamanism  elsewhere,  82-84. 

Silent  City,  the,  128-130. 

Silver  Bow  Basin,  the,  114. 

Sitka,  31-34,  90,  92;  Greek  Church, 
31-33 ; Thousand  Islands,  31 ; 
Russians  at,  31,  32 ; ruins  of,  32 ; 
publications  at,  33 ; castle  at,  31, 
32. 

Slave  murder,  67. 

Spanish  explorers,  progress  north, 
1 ; at  Queen  Charlotte  Is.,  3. 

Spanish  names,  origin,  21 ; corrup- 
tion of,  22. 

St.  Elias  Range,  38,  50. 

Stoicism,  65. 

Students  sent  to  Russia,  89. 

Submerged  City,  the,  131,  132. 

Superstition,  65,  66. 

Table  of  Distances,  34. 

Tacoma,  12-14. 

Theological  schools,  89. 

Theories,  glacial,  35,  36 ; of  moraines, 
54,  55;  Dr.  Kane’s  36,  37;  John 
Muir's,  40,  41,  43,  99,  116;  Nor- 
denskiold,  50,  51 ; on  the  origin  of 
the  Alaskans,  56,  57. 

Thlinkets,  physical  development, 
58 ; nature,  58,  61 ; adornment, 
59 ; marriage  customs,  59,  60 ; vil- 
lages, 62. 

Timber  product,  116;  laws,  9. 

Tongass  Narrows,  26. 

] Totem  poles,  description,  75,  76; 
significance,  75,  76;  value,  76. 

; Training,  90  ; manual,  90, 91 ; moral, 
91,  92. 

Treadwell  mine,  29,  113. 

Vancouver,  Geo.,  £0;  surveys  and 
explorations,  20,  21 ; charts  of,  42. 

Vancouver  Islands,  21-23;  posses- 


J52 


INDEX. 


sion,  20;  U.  S.  claim,  21;  named, 
21 ; harborB,  21 ; area,  21. 
Vegetation,  39. 

Verstova,  Mt.,  31. 

Vices,  61,  65. 

Victoria,  B.  C.,  16-18. 

Vocabulary,  a Chinook,  138-141. 
Voyage  of  Vitus  Behring,  2, 3 ; Capt. 
Cook,  3;  Juan  de  Fuca,  1;  Geo. 
Vancouver,  20. 

Western  Union  Telegraph  scheme, 


5,  6. 

Willoughhy,  Professor,  127-129 ; mir- 
age, 128,  129. 

Witchcraft,  79. 

Wolf,  the,  105. 

Wrangell,  Baron,  27,  32;  Fort,  27, 
28,  90;  Narrows,  28;  Mt.,  38. 
Wright,  Prof.  F.  G.,  49,  53,  54. 

Yaas  Bay,  26. 

Yakatat  Bay,  38. 

Yukon  River,  7,  29. 


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